Hi,

I bought a 1956 F100 from a guy in Texas and in Dec 2007 imported it to my home in Scotland.

I has a 1976 302 from a Ford car and was apparently rebuilt "recently".

(pics below)

I have been reading this forum looking for someone with similar symptoms to my engine problem, but can seem to see anything obvious.

I would be really greatful for your thoughts --as you can imagine, not many local experts...

After driving 20 miles or so, the oil pressure (normally rock steady at 50) drops when the engine idles -steadily drops lower each time my foot's off the gas. When I put my foot back down, the pressure goes back to 50.

More worryingly, I start to lose power, progressively losing more and more.
If I stop for 30 mins, everything is back to normal.

Also, i have a tick-a-tick-a-tick-a-tick noise only when driving, not revving or in park/neutral. I don't remember it doing it when I first got it.

I have read about a "dread tick-tick" --have I got it, and why/what is it?

I have a FRAM oil filter, standard air cleaner, compression is fine, oil and oil level fine, temperature fine, standard 2b carb cleaned and is fine, electric choke broken, so switched off, induction thermic valve(?) tested okay. All previous performed by a local mechanic.

It was running without a regulator for a while (until the ignition melted) when I got it.

Someone offered that maybe the big ends are seizing when the engine heats up?

i have not done many miles in one go --and am now worrying I'm causing damage that will require big bills.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
QbE

 

First off, let me say that that looks like a very nice truck and I can see that it has upgraded front suspension as well. It looks very clean and nicely built. An all around very nice vehicle except for the engine. I'm not coming up with a good scenario for your problem. It sounds to me like a bearing clearance issue, probably in the mains. At the same time, the loss of power points to other problems. To be honest, I can't seem to come up with a cause that fits both symptoms outside of lifters, and that would almost have to be backwards. I wouldn't drive it until you figure this out, and I'll think on it some more and someone on this site may be able to help, but it doesn't sound good to me at this point. But I'm in Texas, maybe I can kick his a** for you if need be.


















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change that oil filter first with anything but a fram... drain the oil and look at it, look for a metalic shine.

How many miles on it?
Put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it (or another one) to make sure you are getting a good reading.

 

I agree with Hemi, put a different filter on. I had a motor that gained 10PSI of pressure when I switched from a Fram to a Motorcraft Filter.

 

I never buy (well once)Fram filters, but have never seen a yellow one like yours.

 

is it losing enough oil pressure to let the lifters bleed down...that would cause a loss in power

 

I would guess the drop in oil pressure is because you are using 10W30 oil which is a little old and has reverted to 10W. If you will be driving above freezing temperatures, try straight 30 weight.

The ticking is probably a hydraulic lifter which is not too serious. If it gets louder when you are going uphill, it might be a leak at the exhaust manifold. N.B.: Ford engines were assembled stock without gaskets between head and exhaust manifold.

The slow powering out might be a clogged fuel filter or less likely, a gas cap that is not venting. Especially considering the age of the vehicle there might be a lot of rust in the tank which can clog up the little filter that screws directly into the carb. I see you have dual filters. There is also a "sock" type filter in the fuel tank often which can be cleared out by blowing low pressure compressed air back through the line. Try disconnecting the filter at the carb and idle the engine to see how much fuel comes out. It should be a good thick stream. If it barely trickles out you have fuel delivery problems.

My compliments on your excellent photographs.

 

[quote=Beanscoot;5992251] N.B.: Ford engines were assembled stock without gaskets between head and exhaust manifold.[/qoute] To run a cast iron manifold on a cast iron head without a gasket, you should torque the bolts as it heats up over the course of several starts. After 2-3 times, the surfaces will conform to one another, sealing the connection without a gasket, and it will never leak untill you break the bolts apart. You don't need perfect surfaces for this to work either, I was introduced to it because of a head to manifold condition that kept blowing gaskets.

 

You guys are really super great. Thanks for all your advice.

I'm going to think about it some more and let you know what's what.

But in the interim, thanks a million.

Cheers,
QbE.