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Do you have vacuum on the line going to the MAP? Do you have a hand vac you can hook up to the MAP? I haven't had to mess with a ford one yet, but I remember my daughters 95 Toyota having issues, and she was getting low vacuum on the line for the MAP, I hooked up my hand vac to it and slowly pulled about 22 pounds on the map, the car started running very smooth, when I released the pressure it ran rough again. I rerouted the vacuum temporarily so it would pull harder, it was a quick fix, but ultimately had to pay the $200 for a new MAP sensor. If you have any cracks in the vacuum lines at all, it takes away from the whole system and it's suggested that all the rubber lines should be changed every 8 to 10 years.
Yes, there is definitely vacuum going to the MAP. That vacuum line, the blue one in the image, runs directly to the intake manifold and has a strong suction. As I said in my previous message, putting my finger over that line, unplugging it, or doing anything at all with it makes no difference in the engine's idling performance. Unplugging the MAP sensor though makes no difference, so the MAP sensor isn't working and I can't figure out why.
As for the fuel pressure, I suspect it's just the gauge I was using not giving me an accurate reading. I'll do another test later, but for now my concern is trying to get the MAP sensor working.
So at the time you checked the fuel pressure and were only getting 28psi, you had already changed all 3 fuel pumps, filter, and FPR?
If its not 32 to 35 psi then you still have a fuel problem.
Did you take the vacuum line off of the FPR while it was running? The pressure should have gone up to 39-45psi. Did you check to see if you have any vacuum on the line vacuum going to the FPR? If you don't have vacuum on the vacuum line going to the FPR (and it was connected) then the pressure should have read a higher psi.
With the fuel pressure gauge connected and the engine not running, if you cycle the ignition switch from off to run 3 or 4 times, the fuel pressure should build up to over 30 psi and stay there. Have you tried that?
If the fuel pressure immediately drops off then you have either a leak, bad fuel pump, bad fuel pressure regulator, leaking injectors, or injectors being held open when they shouldn't be.
The Ford high pressure fuel pump is capable of pumping over 21 GPH at a working pressure of 39 PSI and has a internal over pressure relief valve set at 123 PSI should the fuel become restricted. So again if everything is working properly, you should have no problem building up 32 psi... I suspect that you have problems with your injectors...
On the 5.0 and 5.8 engines you have to remove the upper plenum to remove the injectors with the fuel rail.. I believe on the 7,5 engine that you can loosen the fuel rail and pull the injectors out of the lower intake without removing the plenum. If so then you could pull the injectors out leaving them connected to the fuel rail and cycle the ignition switch and look for any injectors that might be spraying out fuel. You might want to put a container like a vegetable can or something under each injector so that if one is leaking, you can catch the fuel.
The only reason I suspect fuel pressure or fuel related problems isn't my main issue right now is because the engine doesn't misfire nor is there any delay when I accelerate. Also that the engine runs very rich.
Do you have vacuum on the line going to the MAP? Do you have a hand vac you can hook up to the MAP? I haven't had to mess with a ford one yet, but I remember my daughters 95 Toyota having issues, and she was getting low vacuum on the line for the MAP, I hooked up my hand vac to it and slowly pulled about 22 pounds on the map, the car started running very smooth, when I released the pressure it ran rough again. I rerouted the vacuum temporarily so it would pull harder, it was a quick fix, but ultimately had to pay the $200 for a new MAP sensor. If you have any cracks in the vacuum lines at all, it takes away from the whole system and it's suggested that all the rubber lines should be changed every 8 to 10 years.
I know you said you unplugged the MAP, but did you check the voltage going to it? If you changed it with 3 others and there's no difference, maybe its a power issue?
I know you said you unplugged the MAP, but did you check the voltage going to it? If you changed it with 3 others and there's no difference, maybe its a power issue?
No not yet, I definitely will do that. I don't ever think the MAP sensor was working..
I no longer own this vehicle and ended up not resolving this, but before I sold it I concluded it was either the MAP sensor or a vacuum leak. Likely a vacuum leak because I know it had many of those and never fixed them, and now that I've worked on an E250 with a similar issue, I can confidently say that you'd be surprised how many problems can occur with a vacuum leak and/or a bad MAP sensor.
I was also using a MAP sensor I had purchased from AutoZone (Duralast) and I found out those are garbage, so it might've just been a malfunctioning MAP sensor as well.
Wish I could be more of help, but resolving these two issues are what fixed this exact issue in my 1991 E250.
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