93 Aerostar having problems cold starting after not starting it for a few days or parked on an uphill (nose up). Once started and running for about 10 minutes gives no problems for the rest of the day.
When starting cold, gives lots of noise and kinda backfiring. (My mechanic called it hydraulicing-he's not sure what's causing the problem). After about 30 seconds of cranking, it will start with a cloud of smoke out the tailpipe.
First 5 or 10 minutes it usually drives rough and may stall at a light or stop sign followed by another rough start. This time when shifting from Park to Drive, and applying gas , van stalls again and this may happen a bunch of times.
If van is parked overnight on a uphill, it is much more difficult to start if it even starts at all.

This problems all started after a ran through a huge puddle about 8 months ago and the van immediately stalled and could not get it started. Got it towed to a shop and it's never run the same since. At that time all the vacuum lines blew out but I think that's all that really happened. Something else must of gotten damaged or some sensor shorted or whatever.

Any suggestions??

1993 Aerostar, 3.0 litre automatic, 215,000 KM

Thanks

 

pull ECU/PCM codes...search Aero forum for directions
how long since plugs and ign. wire changes...major problem area on Aero's....ign. wires may be arc broken down from lake soaking...
recheck all vacuum lines for damage to hoses and that all are in correct places...should be vacuum line diagram under front of hood.

run fuel rail pressure test...should be 30 lbs at idle and steady...40 lbs at 2000 rpm...fuel pressure regulator diaphram may have been damaged by backfiring into vacuum hoses

pull vacuum modulator on side of tranny...neoprene vacuum hose going into modulator from manifold vacuum tree...look for any dripping auto transmission fluid out of tube...modulator diaphram may have been damaged by backfiring...ATF will be sucked up into engine and cause rough running...

 

codes were all ok, ign wires ok, vacuum lines ok, fuel rail pressure test all in spec. vacuum mod ok (changed it 6 months ago when tranny fluid was leaking into oil)

we changed mass air flow sensor and modulator, hoping that would fix the problem, but nothing. it seems to run a little smoother but still has the problems starting after leaving it for a few days (especially if it has been raining and/or is parking on an uphill position.

any more suggestions

thanks

 

check distributor cap for carbon tracking or any cracks under strong light-halogen shop light best, replace anyway if old or has worn inner contacts or corrosion in spark plug wire connectors. old distributor caps break down and will absorb moisture making cold starting difficult, do you live on W side or E side of BC, W side is a wet climate, tough on distributor systems and spark plug wires

spark plug wires insulation may be broken down and absorbing moisture from setting, how old and what brand, check all connections for corrosion on both ends, replace only with Motorcraft or Autolite brands.

how is idle after engine is warm? rough idle when warm may indicate failed or plugged IAC valve on throttle body.

the vacuum lines blowing off after the lake soaking can cause damage to the fuel pressure regulator, the IAC, the PVC, the EGR valve system....all of which will cause engine start and performance issues.

surprised with the poor engine starting and performance there are not ECU codes stored.

how is performace of warm engine, acceleration and hill pulling, is fuel mileage on freeway normal?

there is a cylinder balance test that can be ran on OBDI Aero's, search Aero forum, test will pinpoint cylinder to look at for cold run problems.

also check engine coolant temp. sensor on front top of engine next to thermostat housing, sends temp. signal to ECU for cold start and hot run conditions to set fuel and timing, wire plug connector may be corroded or pulled off. different that dash temp gauge sender

check air temp sensor and plug connector also

pre 95/96 vehicles have an abbreviated OBD error code list, not all situtations with sensors are reported by ECU

check for fuel pressure leak down after setting overnight, should not be more than 5-10 lbs leak down otherwise fuel pump has to prime and pressurize system again which takes time, injectors do not deliver full fuel dose nor atomize well until rail up to full pressure. may be slow leak in fuel rail, injectors or fuel line from tank pump or in tank pump system...what color is start up smoke....black indicates leaking fuel injectors while setting...pooling fuel in cylinders and wetting plugs...will cause back firing and poor cold start run

 

cloud of smoke on startup...hmmm. has it been using more oil recently? could be a valve guide problem letting oil drain into cylinders fouling plugs at startup. just a thought.

 

Hi

live in vancouver area

engine is fine after warmed up (10 minutes) runs great for rest of day and next. even next day start will be fine.
acceleration and hills are fine

problem usually only arises when left untouched over a weekend 2-3day

starts easier parked on a downhill (nose down) than uphill.
if parked on uphill it will not start at all first try. i would turn ignition and crank for a while (say 30 sec) all the while sputtering and hydraulicing and stop for a minute and try to start it again and it will start after a few seconds.

always black stinky smoke at rough start ups

only error my mechanic said came up was low temp, all else was fine

i'll give your suggestions to mechanic (if he hasn't already tried them) and get back.


thanks very much

 

Water in the fuel tank? Try a couple of cans of dry gas. My B 2000 would start rough when parked nose down. Turned out to be water in the bottom of the tank. The incline was enough to raise the water level up to the fuel pickup.

 

You could have a leaky injector. Bad coolant sensor sending wrong value to computer drowning engine in fuel..Good luck!