Tuning issues
BUT, can you afford the price. Cause to me, the 7.3 Model is still attractive and less pricey. Also. You rode her to death and back already, and she always keeps you satisfied.
. Third World decisions.
The downside is also a bonus - it’s a very complicated engine, etc. The sophistication makes it easier to diagnose. The other end of the spectrum is early 90’s fuel injected vehicles. Really limited feedback from computers makes diagnosis a parts-swapping nightmare. This is largely why modern tech’s hate the 7.3 - the new stuff has 100’s of PID’s to collect data and on board testing to pinpoint problems. A 7.3 can have a dead miss and not throw a single code to give a clue. This is the impetus for this thread.
The downside is also a bonus - it’s a very complicated engine, etc. The sophistication makes it easier to diagnose. The other end of the spectrum is early 90’s fuel injected vehicles. Really limited feedback from computers makes diagnosis a parts-swapping nightmare. This is largely why modern tech’s hate the 7.3 - the new stuff has 100’s of PID’s to collect data and on board testing to pinpoint problems. A 7.3 can have a dead miss and not throw a single code to give a clue. This is the impetus for this thread.
Along with 100s of PID's the 6.7 isn't very complicated to work on once the EGR cooler is removed. With full 3" intake piping I would bet the turbo could be removed in almost the same amount of time as a 7.3 turbo. Injectors are easy to get too, exhaust manifolds are in the middle of the valley, valve cover/intake manifolds are in the open. Without the emissions you are basically left with the turbo, injectors, oil cooler, water pump(s), and injection pump that could have issues (outside of the rotating assembly). Oil cooler is 10x easier to change than one in a 7.3 and doesn't fail very often. IMO the biggest long term issues with the 6.7 (not the injection pump) would be the upper oil pan gasket (engine has to be removed to change) and the fact that they dont use keyed main bearings leading to potential spun mains if too much fuel gets in the oil (emissions). There are a few companies that make machined flanges for making DIY 3" intake plumbing as the kits cost upwards of $1200+. This will be my next modification, it really opens up the valley of the motor and makes things more accessible. The list of mods I can make without pulling the intake manifolds or injectors is getting very short.
I never did completely solve this.
It did it with the 160/0
It did it with 180/30
It did it less with AD30 split shots, but still did it
It still does it some, much less noticeably, with another engine, all new sensors, and stock AD injectors. It does it even less on stock tuning.
My conclusion, is it may be somewhat in tuning(think triple digit revisions and changes between all the tuners combined) but my biggest wonder is if it isnt coming from the transmission side, whether an issue, or more likely in my mind, the hd low stall tc, maybe unlocked it still provides more fluid coupling then stock therefore putting more load on the engine then the pcm is expecting. Just a theory. Maybe its because of 4.30 gearing I put in it.
At this point I am determined to just stay stock injectors and basic tuning, and basic turbo.
If I want more power, I will just buy a 6.7
A few thousand miles on new 200/30 from cncfab, this issue has completely left the truck now, runs smooth as butter and mpg highway empty went from 11.5-12 to 15.5-16, the extra power on tap is phenomenal, only have a single tune on my hydra, from AA. I no longer will make any promises to leave the truck alone, as it is obviously never going to happen. I have multiple turbo projects in store this year, no not compounds FTN..... since you would ask that lol... multiple but one at a time... btw did anyone see that KC Turbos released an updated version of the 63/73 ball bearing tiger turbo (gen 2 wheels)....(and a 66/73) oooolala













