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I'm fairly certain I blew a head gasket on my 1990 F350 last week...I'm thinking about just pulling the motor and fully going through it rather than just replacing head gaskets, but I won't be able to get the truck into the garage for at least another month or two, and my entire property is dirt/sand otherwise (currently have a project vehicle in the garage missing front axle and most of the suspension...moving it would be tough right now). Obviously not all that well suited to rolling an engine hoist over. Even if I managed to lay down steel or wood sheet for the hoist to roll on, i'd still have to get the engine from the truck to the garage over a significant amount of gravel, and up hill into the garage.
I can use my tractor to lift the motor, but fore/aft and side to side adjustments could be tough..I'm wondering just how cleanly these motors come out of the frame? If I unbolt the transmission (5 speed manual), and slide it back a bit, would I be able to just pluck the engine straight up and out? Or maybe even pull the radiator and front core support, and then pull the motor up a bit, then straight out the front? Maybe with the trans attached...would be nice to get it out of there too to clean up 30 years of dirt and grime on it...
To give you some flexibility.... Hang a chain fall from the bucket / forks of your tractor and keep the bucket well above your head while you are working. The "long rigged" chain fall will give you the movement you need to get the motor moving the first few inches... From that point, then you can back your tractor out with the motor / trans.
To give you some flexibility.... Hang a chain fall from the bucket / forks of your tractor and keep the bucket well above your head while you are working. The "long rigged" chain fall will give you the movement you need to get the motor moving the first few inches... From that point, then you can back your tractor out with the motor / trans.
Hobo
This is exactly what I was going to recommend!
It's pretty tight getting it out. On my bull nose you have to rotate the engine to get the clutch to clear. But it's definitely doable if you hang a chainfall off the buck or forks as stated.
This will also let you swing it a bit when you go back to mate it up to the trans.
I'm using an a frame with a chain fall right now, which your tractor will basically take the place of.
I'm using a 1ton chainfall and it works just fine.
Some extra work involved, but you can pull the core support. I did on mine because i originally was going to use my cherry picker, but ultimately ended up using the loader. Its not the most ideal situation, but definitely doable as a one man show with it out of the way.
Well, as I said in my OP, I was already considering pulling the radiator and core support...which I started doing today.
I took a long look at the engine today, and determined that even if I end up attempting to pull the heads off with the motor still installed, everything is tight enough in there that it would likely be worth my time to pull the radiator and core support out, along with the front accessories, just to get some better access in there. Not to mention, clean up the engine bay better from all the coolant that sprayed everywhere.
I'm really leaning towards just pulling the motor at this point. I can see where even with the aid of the heavy lifters, pulling & reinstalling the heads is gonna be a royal PITA with the engine still in frame. Plus I have some wiring I'd really like to clean up, and I have some other oil leaks where this would be a prime time to locate and fix along with just cleaning 30 years of grime from the engine itself. It also looks like a full engine gasket set really isn't that much more expensive over the head and valley gaskets anyways.
I pull the Rad and the fan off the engine before I lift... I have never had to pull the Core support and have never had an issue with room. Just saying
IN Fact I have pulled the engine with Tranny connected using a Load Rotator with a Cherry Picker without pulling the core support by myself.
Those Load Rotaters are a must for pulling an engine.
I recommend to cut that stupid crank off, and weld on a
long Nut. I welded on a 13/16, then use my air impact
gun to change the angle of the engine. Sure a time saver.
Never heard of the load leveler. Was gonna suggest getting a 3/4 or 1/2 ton comealong to change your angle to weasel it out. The load leveler seems like a good idea if you're using an engine hoist. With a tractor with forks/bucket you have a lot of rigging options.
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