Engine pulling advice?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
Engine pulling advice?
I'm having my strait 6 223 engine rebuilt and I'm pulling it from the truck tomorrow. I'll have a couple of friends with me to help out and lend a hand. Just wondering if anyone has pulled one of these and if you have any tips/advice to pass my way. I've pulled everything off the engine (yep, took lots of pics) and if I can't score a lift off craigslist, I'll be buying one from Harbor Freight. Would love to know where the best spot is to bolt into, how to not screw up and so on. Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 291
Likes: 1
From: California
Whether you rent or buy, make sure you get a hoist with enough capacity to lift the motor (+ transmission) over the radiator support, otherwise you may damage the support, motor (or both) trying to get it up and over.
You may also want to pick up a load leveller. I haven't used one yet, but have heard they are easily worth the price. After the struggles I had getting the motor back in last time, I'll definitely be getting one if I need to pull it again.
~Steve
You may also want to pick up a load leveller. I haven't used one yet, but have heard they are easily worth the price. After the struggles I had getting the motor back in last time, I'll definitely be getting one if I need to pull it again.
~Steve
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
As Steve mentioned, task somewhat smoother with 'load leveler' May want to remove the hood, if so, mark the location of the bolts. Suggest also remove the radiator, if damaged looking at considerably more bucks. If the truck has the manual transmission you may want to consider replacing the pressure plate, clutch, throw-out bearing, and possibly the pilot bearing; once the engine and trans has been reinstalled you will have a better understanding why you don't want to 'redo' sooner than necessary.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 2
From: Santa Monica, CA
I bought a used 2ton cherry picker on craigslist 8yrs ago for $80. When I finish with it I can probably sell it for $80! LOL!!
If you have any intention or desire to detail the engine bay or chassis while doing the swap, it's not very hard to remove the entire front clip. The the engine can come out the front and no need to remove the hood. Just another approach.....
If you have any intention or desire to detail the engine bay or chassis while doing the swap, it's not very hard to remove the entire front clip. The the engine can come out the front and no need to remove the hood. Just another approach.....
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
I bought a used 2ton cherry picker on craigslist 8yrs ago for $80. When I finish with it I can probably sell it for $80! LOL!!
If you have any intention or desire to detail the engine bay or chassis while doing the swap, it's not very hard to remove the entire front clip. The the engine can come out the front and no need to remove the hood. Just another approach.....
If you have any intention or desire to detail the engine bay or chassis while doing the swap, it's not very hard to remove the entire front clip. The the engine can come out the front and no need to remove the hood. Just another approach.....
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 2
From: Santa Monica, CA
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
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My vote...load leveler. I have one from Harbor Freight and it works just fine. Makes pulling an engine "almost" a one man job!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
If ya pull the front clip ya can see how easy it will be
to replace the ball joints, pins and generally overhaul
the front end and steering. As well as detail it all. It's
the best and easiest way to get to it all. Just remember
to mark all your bolts and holes so as to get the clip
lined back up close. Than tweak it to get it even closer
than factory.
to replace the ball joints, pins and generally overhaul
the front end and steering. As well as detail it all. It's
the best and easiest way to get to it all. Just remember
to mark all your bolts and holes so as to get the clip
lined back up close. Than tweak it to get it even closer
than factory.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 396
Likes: 5
Engine pull and replace
I used a sling which I ran through two 1/8 straps bolted to the side of the block. The balance was pretty good but I added a nose chain just to be sure. With the sheet metal removed it was a piece of cake to drop it in.
Last edited by P38fighter; Aug 22, 2015 at 06:03 PM. Reason: clarification
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