226 Running Hot
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 7
From: Minnesota
226 Running Hot
I have a 1949 Ford car, but I thought this would be a good forum to post in.
My 226 runs hot. It can't sit and idle for more than 10-15 minutes before the gauge says it's too hot. Is this common with these engines? When I'm driving it has no issue. I've owned it for 9 years and we've always been worried about overheating it while stuck in traffic. It has a new thermostat, water pump, hoses, and the radiator was recently repaired by a radiator shop.
I know the trucks have a fan shroud, they didn't come on cars. I was thinking of finding a truck one and trying to make it work? I could also try an electric fan, but I don't really like those, and I'm not sure I could find a 6V one
My 226 runs hot. It can't sit and idle for more than 10-15 minutes before the gauge says it's too hot. Is this common with these engines? When I'm driving it has no issue. I've owned it for 9 years and we've always been worried about overheating it while stuck in traffic. It has a new thermostat, water pump, hoses, and the radiator was recently repaired by a radiator shop.
I know the trucks have a fan shroud, they didn't come on cars. I was thinking of finding a truck one and trying to make it work? I could also try an electric fan, but I don't really like those, and I'm not sure I could find a 6V one
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,898
Likes: 3,138
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I had the same problem with my '48 panel. I'd start it and within a few minutes the gauge would peg out hot. I did everything, new thermostat, flushed the engine cooling system twice, radiator looked fine. I finally went to the store and bought a set of mechanical gauges, Never goes about 180°. It was the sending units, V8s have two, one on each head.
A mechanical gauge isn't that expensive. Or find someone with an infrared tester and have them shoot at the engine to see what the temperature is.
A mechanical gauge isn't that expensive. Or find someone with an infrared tester and have them shoot at the engine to see what the temperature is.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,195
Likes: 4,807
From: Burbank, WA
Welcome to our little corner of the forum. We'll try not to hold being a car owner instead of a truck owner over you. lol.
A couple of questions, (or maybe a few more)
Is this a new issue or has it gotten worse since you've owned it?
How many blades are on the fan you're using?
How close to the radiator is the fan?
Have you checked the temp with a known good, mechanical aftermarket gauge?
The more blades you have, obviously the more air you can move. Rule of thumb is a fan without a shroud should be within an inch of the radiator. Basically as close as you can get it and still get a wrench on the bolts. A fan too far away won't pull air through without a shroud.
Speaking of shrouds, you'd need to check the relationship of the placement and height of the engine in relation to the height of the radiator and compare the truck to the car to know if the truck shroud has any chance of working.
I would agree the electric fan would be a last resort. The stock cooling system should keep the engine in the proper range without issue if everything is working correctly and in good condition.
A couple of questions, (or maybe a few more)
Is this a new issue or has it gotten worse since you've owned it?
How many blades are on the fan you're using?
How close to the radiator is the fan?
Have you checked the temp with a known good, mechanical aftermarket gauge?
The more blades you have, obviously the more air you can move. Rule of thumb is a fan without a shroud should be within an inch of the radiator. Basically as close as you can get it and still get a wrench on the bolts. A fan too far away won't pull air through without a shroud.
Speaking of shrouds, you'd need to check the relationship of the placement and height of the engine in relation to the height of the radiator and compare the truck to the car to know if the truck shroud has any chance of working.
I would agree the electric fan would be a last resort. The stock cooling system should keep the engine in the proper range without issue if everything is working correctly and in good condition.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 7
From: Minnesota
Welcome to our little corner of the forum. We'll try not to hold being a car owner instead of a truck owner over you. lol.
A couple of questions, (or maybe a few more)
Is this a new issue or has it gotten worse since you've owned it?
How many blades are on the fan you're using?
How close to the radiator is the fan?
Have you checked the temp with a known good, mechanical aftermarket gauge?
The more blades you have, obviously the more air you can move. Rule of thumb is a fan without a shroud should be within an inch of the radiator. Basically as close as you can get it and still get a wrench on the bolts. A fan too far away won't pull air through without a shroud.
Speaking of shrouds, you'd need to check the relationship of the placement and height of the engine in relation to the height of the radiator and compare the truck to the car to know if the truck shroud has any chance of working.
I would agree the electric fan would be a last resort. The stock cooling system should keep the engine in the proper range without issue if everything is working correctly and in good condition.
A couple of questions, (or maybe a few more)
Is this a new issue or has it gotten worse since you've owned it?
How many blades are on the fan you're using?
How close to the radiator is the fan?
Have you checked the temp with a known good, mechanical aftermarket gauge?
The more blades you have, obviously the more air you can move. Rule of thumb is a fan without a shroud should be within an inch of the radiator. Basically as close as you can get it and still get a wrench on the bolts. A fan too far away won't pull air through without a shroud.
Speaking of shrouds, you'd need to check the relationship of the placement and height of the engine in relation to the height of the radiator and compare the truck to the car to know if the truck shroud has any chance of working.
I would agree the electric fan would be a last resort. The stock cooling system should keep the engine in the proper range without issue if everything is working correctly and in good condition.
The fan has 4 blades, and is about 1 inch from the radiator, I could maybe move it forward 1/2 an inch. I have not checked with a mechanical gauge, but I think the stock gauge is working fine, the car overheated once or twice a few years ago when the water pump was failing, and gauge was pegged. I do have an infrared tester that I could use.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Welcome Aboard 1985 Bronco. You are obviously teasing us with this '49 car you have.... lets see pics
when you get a chance.... and the '85 Bronco since it's the year of the new Bronco launch.
A shroud would really help... Are all of your hoses getting hot.. It just sounds like water isn't getting out of the engine to get cooled.
I have put the thermostat in backwards in my younger days.
Ben in Austin (TX)
1950 F1
when you get a chance.... and the '85 Bronco since it's the year of the new Bronco launch.
A shroud would really help... Are all of your hoses getting hot.. It just sounds like water isn't getting out of the engine to get cooled.
I have put the thermostat in backwards in my younger days.
Ben in Austin (TX)
1950 F1
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
IF you are running coolant to the heater core add a shut-off valve in the line and shut it off this will prevent the uncooled coolant form the core heating up the coolant from the rad. This may be enough to make the difference.
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Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,519
Likes: 403
From: W. Central FL.
If the vehicle runs an acceptable temperature at road speed, the problem is air flow at idle. Post pictures of the fan. If I remember right, those engines in good shape would idle down pretty darn low which of course means less air and coolant flow. If you think it is idling slow, you might try bumping the idle speed up a slight bit and see if that makes a difference.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 687
Likes: 80
All the above for sure.
And tell us about the distributor and the advance mechanism(s). Centrifugal? Old Load-a-matic? Vacuum advance (if so equipped) connected and to what vacuum source? Static timing setting (most important).
And tell us about the distributor and the advance mechanism(s). Centrifugal? Old Load-a-matic? Vacuum advance (if so equipped) connected and to what vacuum source? Static timing setting (most important).
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 319
Likes: 18
I have a 1949 Ford car, but I thought this would be a good forum to post in.
My 226 runs hot. It can't sit and idle for more than 10-15 minutes before the gauge says it's too hot. Is this common with these engines? When I'm driving it has no issue. I've owned it for 9 years and we've always been worried about overheating it while stuck in traffic. It has a new thermostat, water pump, hoses, and the radiator was recently repaired by a radiator shop.
I know the trucks have a fan shroud, they didn't come on cars. I was thinking of finding a truck one and trying to make it work? I could also try an electric fan, but I don't really like those, and I'm not sure I could find a 6V one
My 226 runs hot. It can't sit and idle for more than 10-15 minutes before the gauge says it's too hot. Is this common with these engines? When I'm driving it has no issue. I've owned it for 9 years and we've always been worried about overheating it while stuck in traffic. It has a new thermostat, water pump, hoses, and the radiator was recently repaired by a radiator shop.
I know the trucks have a fan shroud, they didn't come on cars. I was thinking of finding a truck one and trying to make it work? I could also try an electric fan, but I don't really like those, and I'm not sure I could find a 6V one
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
OK before you get run around on 15 different directions. This is not a rad issue as you not overheating while underway. This is a flow issue at idle either low coolant flow or low airflow through the rad. So an increase in idle RPM may resolve it. If you are already at a more than high enough Idle RPM just install a valve in the heater core line. At low idle and low flow, the impact the of uncooled coolant heading back back to the engine is very significant. This is in part most older vehicles had heater core shut-offs from the factory..
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 7
From: Minnesota
It has the stock vacuum advance distributor. The vacuum comes from the intake manifold. The car is idling above the stock setting. The radiator shop fixed a leaking top tank, and cleaned it. It doesn't have a heater core shut off valve. After I check the water temp, I'll look into the timing and adding a shut off valve.
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