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Now that I've been driving my truck more regularly, I am worried about the temperature. It usually runs around 190 on the gauge. It's been really hot here in Nashville this weekend, and it ran closer to 200 last night, one time getting to 210 (in traffic). Basically it hold steady, between 190 and 200.
Is 190 normal operating temp. for my 240?
Also, was there ever a shroud on this truck? If not, has anyone put one on?
Last question. What about putting an electric fan on this thing? Is this a very common upgrade, I haven't seen it discussed very often.
I have a 360 5.9L V8 automatic 1972 F100 with a completely rebuilt engine, new radiator, thermostat, water pump, you name it and I live in Austin, TX. When I am running around without much traffic my truck runs right at 180-190. It was really hot the other day and I hit some traffic and I got her up to about 205 which I don't like to see. A fan shroud is definitely something you should look into if you are going to stick with the original setup that is what I did. I found mine at LMC truck. If you drive in a lot of stop and go traffic you might want to consider switching to an electric fan. With an electric fan you can be idling at a stop light and that puppy will be going full blast with the way your truck is setup and the way my truck is set up that mechanical fan blade doesn't do jack when you are idling. Really just depends on the traffic situation you encounter while driving your truck.
Here is what I would consider doing. Buy a radiator shroud and install it and possibly a new thermostat (they are super cheap). What condition is your radiator in? If it is all rusted to heck and beat up you may want to consider replacing or having it rebuilt. That all being said 190 isn't bad if that is your high point.....especially considering how hot it has been lately.
The original fans are pretty flat, the trucks don't manage the heat very idling in hot weather.
There are some things that I have learned over the years, make sure that you have a 50/50 mix, about 2" down in the neck, and when sitting in traffic, put it in neutral and idle it up to 12-1500 rpms that will usually manage it. Don't be afraid to drive it in second gear a bit longer to keep the water flowing.
I have found that one can get buy without buying shrouds, big buck fans, and overflow water bottles by working the system a little.
very true John...all good advice. Man it gets hotter than heck out here in TX so I always start to worry when I am sitting there in traffic and it is 100 outside.
According to 65 shop manual 240 thermostat starts to open at between 157-164, and fully open between 184-186. Both 65's run between 180-190 and I try and flush the system periodically. If it runs in the low 200's may want to consider checking out the thermostat and flush sys. while at it. Learned from experience to test thermostat before installing to ensure it's working properly.
very true John...all good advice. Man it gets hotter than heck out here in TX so I always start to worry when I am sitting there in traffic and it is 100 outside.
I hear you, there is so much open frontal on these trucks that a small amount of air movement gets things under control. That is the reason for idling up while sitting and the gauge is starting to creep up.
This is providing your system is all good and up to snuff.
Hello
great info!
on the opposite end I have a 64 f100 with rebuilt 292 y
just had rad flush and all 4 frost plugs replaced
put a 190 stat in last year
was never getting above 160 (original guage)
now its 10 degrees less 150
i also live in texas
any suggestions? Should the lower temp be a concern??
Thanks for the info nice to get a straight ahead answer for a change a lot of the guys in this forum r not to polite or helpful but I much appreciate your input
The meaning of my post, is that I doubt that an engine would run at 150 degrees. The original dash gauge won't likely be accurate so, to really determine what the engine temperature is, you need to run an aftermarket gauge or just shoot the thermostat housing with an infrared temp sensor.
Check the temperature at the thermostat housing. That is where it counts. The sender for a Y Block is at the rear of the driver's side head. Coolant has to pass over the combustion chambers on the way to the thermostat and this will increase the temp by another 15 tp 20 degrees. This means that the actual temperature is always hotter than indicated by an accurate gauge in the stock location. Considering that it is winter and thermostats start to open a little before their rated temp and are fully open a little after, what you observe is pretty close to what it should be. If the thermostat is working properly, the temperature is in the ballpark of 190 at the thermostat housing.
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