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...so does mine. It might just be that the gauges were never very accurate and that you have the correct sender. I have a digital/computer readout and it's at least ten degrees above the stock gauge.
Thanks much TA455HO, very interesting. Clear and well done.
I was in a small July 4th parade a week ago. During the short slow parade, the needle got up just above 190, higher than I've ever seen it read, but no more and all stayed good. Mine is not the same gauge as your video but now I know it has 'some' range. Mine is the small upper r/s gauge incorporated into the round speedo face...with the small fuel on upper l/s. That fuel gauge works not at all.
Also you mention using conductive sealer on sending unit? Thinking no teflon tape...but pipe dope ok?
I've found it most accurate to calibrate the high end while the vehicle is running at operating temp or in actual service so I can get it as close as possible. It has to be largely disassembled to get to the back side of the gauges, but wired up like normal.
and whats the difference between 230 and 260 sensor?
That's the temperature at which the sender delivers maximum voltage to the gauge. Or, in other words, it's the temperature at which the sender reaches it's lowest possible ohms resistance.
The 260 allows the gauge to theoretically show a higher engine temperature. For me I like to run the 230 sender and set my gauge to read at the highest line when it reaches that level. You can bench set this if you place the sender in a pot of boiling water while running the gauges with an external circuit set up with a breadboard and an ICVR on 12V. Or just put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator if idling and it should reach max temp - just watch for overheating - have it ready to adjust and work quickly.
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