Road Trip
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 610
Likes: 42
From: Lacey
That's kinda why we were suggesting it. Get a new or refurb points distributor and run it as is or swap in the Ignitor without having to change any wiring or harnesses at all. Hell I'd mail you my spare distributor that has a Ignitor 2 but it's for a FE motor.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 610
Likes: 42
From: Lacey
Having backup parts is not a bad thing. Key piece is to ensure what voltage and ohm your "hot" keyed wire in your current ignition setup to make sure you get the correct Ignitor ordered. You'll end up with the same distributor you're used to, cap, rotor, coil, all that with the Ignitor installed under the cap and spare points in your glove box. 2 wires and 2 screws is all we're talking about. Super simple and very reliable. Duraspark is too and parts are typically available everywhere but you'll have to change what's currently there wiring wise.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
I'm not sure which is more cost effective right now given I need to buy a new distributor regardless. I think right now I'm going to go with duraspark since I've already figured out what needs to happen to get it in, and I can't find a stock distributor anywhere around here.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
It is not necessary to use the large cap on the DS distributor. My '76 390 uses a regular small cap with DS II distributor. However, as I said before, I wouldn't try to do a conversion in the middle of a trip, but that's just my .02.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 860
Likes: 13
From: Asheville, NC
I replaced the distributor in both our trucks with the GM style HEI from CRT Performance. They are economical ($140 for unit and wires) and both have been trouble free for years. Replacement parts are standard GM and available from any parts store (cap, rotor, module, etc.). I’m sure I’ll get blowback for this recommendation, but I have been most satisfied with the units. Here is a link........
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-4-9L-3...-/351805040117
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-4-9L-3...-/351805040117
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Thanks for the recommendation Gavin.
Somehow it didn't cross my mind that I'd also need new spark plug wires with the different cap.. Another thing I'll have to go back to the store to pick up.
Somehow it didn't cross my mind that I'd also need new spark plug wires with the different cap.. Another thing I'll have to go back to the store to pick up.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Alright guys, I got it done (thanks to dad). Wired in the ICM, new distributor, and all that jazz. More or less timed. Somehow figured out where all the wires went and got everything in the right place.
After getting her started again I decided to finally take a look at the alignment. Used the innermost tire ridge on either side as my marking point. 60.5" from wheel to wheel on the front and somewhere in the 62" range on the back. No wonder she didn't like driving over 60mph. Loosed up the tie rod and grabbed a ratchet strap and got it to 61 5/16" in the front and around 61.5" in the rear. Anyone know what spec she's supposed to be dialed in to? I'm sure this will be better than it was before, but by no means perfect.
After getting her started again I decided to finally take a look at the alignment. Used the innermost tire ridge on either side as my marking point. 60.5" from wheel to wheel on the front and somewhere in the 62" range on the back. No wonder she didn't like driving over 60mph. Loosed up the tie rod and grabbed a ratchet strap and got it to 61 5/16" in the front and around 61.5" in the rear. Anyone know what spec she's supposed to be dialed in to? I'm sure this will be better than it was before, but by no means perfect.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 542
Likes: 72
From: Point Washington
On those old fords we normally aimed for 1/8" toe in. So, measurement at the front of the tire should be 1/8" less than the measurement at the rears.
Jack up the front tires, spin the wheel and scribe a line around the tire tread with a sharpie. This eliminates any variables from wheel or tire run out. Set the truck down, back up 10 feet, pull back forward. Now, check toe in. Every time you adjust, back up and pull forward to settle the suspension.
Jack up the front tires, spin the wheel and scribe a line around the tire tread with a sharpie. This eliminates any variables from wheel or tire run out. Set the truck down, back up 10 feet, pull back forward. Now, check toe in. Every time you adjust, back up and pull forward to settle the suspension.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
"Set the toe and let 'er go" used to be the phrase.
While I haven't tried it, looked into this a little bit. A lot of guys will DIY alignment (Toe in) with nothing much more than some jackstands and carpenters string level and careful measurement and adjustment. Supposedly, it works really well. I believe them. If you dig around the intertubes there will be some webpages showing how.
While I haven't tried it, looked into this a little bit. A lot of guys will DIY alignment (Toe in) with nothing much more than some jackstands and carpenters string level and careful measurement and adjustment. Supposedly, it works really well. I believe them. If you dig around the intertubes there will be some webpages showing how.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,886
Likes: 4,119
From: Angier, NC
2 pieces of square wood or angle iron that will hang off the front and rear of the tires, enough to hook the tape to when by your self, and 2 bungee cords to hold the wood / iron to the wheels.
Place the wood / iron on the outside of the tires and run the bungee cords behind the tires to hold the wood / iron to the tires.
Try to get it as high as you can but still get the tape across and not hit anything.
Then as said 1/8" to 1/16" toe in.
Way to go on getting the truck running again. Now you never have to mess with points again
Good luck
Dave ----
Place the wood / iron on the outside of the tires and run the bungee cords behind the tires to hold the wood / iron to the tires.
Try to get it as high as you can but still get the tape across and not hit anything.
Then as said 1/8" to 1/16" toe in.
Way to go on getting the truck running again. Now you never have to mess with points again
Good luck
Dave ----
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 610
Likes: 42
From: Lacey
Put it on jackstands on the suspension so it sits "at ride height", center up your steering wheel (double checked at the pitman arm) and I always measure off of the bead of the wheel itself, not the tire. There's slight variance on tire sidewalls with bulges, lettering etc.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Little update for everyone. One thing that's always been in the plan was to rebuild the transmission with my dad when I got out here. Pulled the tranny, no problem. Got it broken open without too much effort and I figured out how the gearing works which thrilled me to no end. Really interesting stuff. Looks like the synchro rings are all good but what I did find didn't bode well. Broken things sitting in the bottom of the pan. Come to find out that the retaining cap for the roller bearings between the input and output shaft somehow got destroyed and the shifter spring that goes around the 1st/2nd shifter hub was also destroyed. The cap shouldn't be too hard to figure out, but the shifter spring is a different story. Called novak and it looks like the only way to get that spring is to buy a full synchro set for another $200 plus shipping. Currently trying to source a transmission in decent shape that is reasonably cheap that I can just slap in and get on my way.