I kind of thought so and why I said to grab both parts and try to turn.

Now I don't think I would reuse that dist. till you can figure why it seized up or the new pin will do the same thing.

Once the pin parts are out and you have a new pin you can look thru the gear holes to line up the shaft holes.
Better yet start the pin in one side of the gear but not to far you cant get the gear on the shaft.
Now line up the hole of the gear from the other side to the shaft hole and drive the pin in.

I am looking for how to wire a DSII box so you will have it just in case.
Nice to have options.
Dave ----

 

Thanks for looking for the wiring, Dave. I appreciate it.

 

Lets see if this will work


It looks like from the ICM box the O & P & BK/LG plug into the DSII dist. you will need to make longer wires to reach from fender well to the dist.
The R from the ICM box is power when running
The W from the ICM box gets power only when you are stating the motor and I don't know if this needs to be hooked up as there is talk it is a timing retard?
The DG from the ICM box goes to the neg side of the coil from the looks of it.
The pos side of the coil gets full power when running, looks like you could just by pass your resister and run right to the coil as it is.
To be safe I would get the coil that matches the dist. and ICM box.
Any 80 to 83 300 F100 / F150 / F250 / F350 truck should work and get the blue cable pull box. They will most likely have that one in stock.

You will need to order either dist. points or DSII and maybe the ICM so it depends on how much work you want to make for yourself.
Points dist. is a drop in, check point gap and done or wire up the DSII box & dist.
I think the points dist and be on your way and worry about the no pints dist at a later date if you want.
Good luck
Dave ----

 

I'm a little unclear - has truck arrived at final destination via trailer, or do you need to perform repairs and continue on? I'd want to spin the oil pump drive rod and see that the pump itself isn't seized up. The roll pin securing distributor gear won't normally shear unless Bad things happen.

 

He did say the dist was hard to turn by hand so fingers crossed the dist. seized up and sheered the pin.
But you are right he should also check the pump.
Think he trailered it to a place he could work on it but had a car to use to make a little trip with family.
Dave ----

 

So there are several parts of this trip. Part one was Denver to Manassas, Virginia (near DC) where my folks are. Picture with me on the trailer was with their car, towing me back to their house just an hour up the road. The second and third parts of this trip are from their house down to Flovilla, Georgia and back, which is about an hour and a half south of Atlanta, for a camp-meeting I've been going to for years. Fourth part of the trip is back out to Denver from my folks' house.

If y'all look back at post #60 I found why the roll pin sheared. One of the centrifical weights on the distributor broke off and blocked things up, causing the pin to shear. That picture is taken from the top of the distributor looking down, with it torn most of the way down. That's the area under the points and condenser once you have the vacuum return off and the rotational plate pulled off.

 

Interesting truck mechanical stories aside (which I enjoy very much), I'm impressed with your tenacity and resourcefulness.
Are you a veteran? What do you do for your day job?

 

No sir! Just grew up with a dad that taught me the importance of figuring out how to do things yourself rather than just shipping things off to other people to do the work for you. Some of my friends say I have an old soul. My day job.. Well currently I'm a student at Denver Seminary out in Denver, Colorado, so that takes up a good amount of time. I've also got a part time job there at the seminary, currently doing some special projects but come fall I'll be moving into a faculty services position (I think, not solidified yet). On the side I do some welding.

 

OK, tracking now. I guess the question then is whether to utilize electronic ignition or not, this is something you'll have to decide. A stock factory type distributor would allow for a points replacement module installation such as Accel or Pertronix, though also backwards compatible with points and condenser.

I would familiarize myself now with finding the compression stroke TDC on #1 cylinder now, and lining up rotor with #1 cap terminal. It isn't a major deal but it sure causes a lot of people trouble if the questions here over the years are any guide. Keep in mind too, the crankshaft balancer outer ring (where the timing marks live) can slip off axis due to age.

 

I think I’m going to go ahead and get a DSII unit. None of the parts stores near me have the stock distributor in stock which is a bummer. I have the tools at my dad’s house to do the electrical work, so I feel pretty good about that.

One of the things the old mechanic showed/taught me the night those folks came to my rescue was how to find TDC and how to check it against the rotor position as a general rule. I feel pretty good about that now, so getting it timed, now and in the future, shouldn't be a problem.

 

Just found this over on the bullnose page and thought it might be helpful for anyone who happens to stop by at a later date trying to figure out how to wire this thing up.

 

I missed your #60 post and the cause for this latest ordeal.

I did not think anyone would have a points dist. in stock or even the DSII so would need to order either one.
Also check on the ICM, aka the box, to make sure they don't have to order it also. Nothing like getting the dsit. and find out they now need to order the box

With the picture you posted and the wire colors and what they do from the picture I posted you should be able to get it wired and running in no time.
BTW Painless makes a harness that goes between the box and dist. / coil but I hear it is like $80.
For now I would use spade connectors to push onto the wires inside the plugs.
When you get the time to hit the junk yards any car or truck using the DSII set up, 6 or v8 harness will work.
On the box get the blue color wire pull. This is where the wires go into the box has a blue color wire holder, pretty standard box.

Good luck and I am pulling for you
Dave ----

 

Another option you could look at is to just install a Pertronix Ignitor in a mechanically good distributor.

 

Yes he could and carry a set of points and tools in the glove box so when it gives up you can pop the points back in and be on your way.
Now don't get me wrong the DSII can go bad also and why some of us carry an extra.
Unplug the old and plug in the new and you are on your way, no tools. Some even piggy back the 2 on the inside fender well so it is not bouncing around inside the cab.

BTW my extra box is sitting on my spare fender outside my garage. Yep does a lot of good when I am broke down far from it
Oh and the one on my truck is leaking the sticky potting out the bottom down the inside of the fender well
Dave ----

 

That'd be the preference, but no one had a mechanically sound stock one around here (D.C. area isn't exactly known for classic vehicles, sadly. If my folks were more out in the boonies somewhere I'd probably have better luck). They did have the 1980 DSII dist., IGM and all that so I picked it up. Had to order a couple things but they only took an hour to get in. Wasn't until the dist got in that I realized you need a cap adaptor, which also needed to be ordered.. So I may as well have just ordered the stock points dist for all the trouble I'm going through.