Which transmission do you have?
I have a 3 speed in the garage if you need it,, or parts.

 

I've got the T-18, not sure how a 3 sp swap would go at this point.

 

Yeah, my 3 speed would be no help. Sorry!

 

Not a problem! I do appreciate it. After chatting with Novak and they did manage to find the individual spring for $18 shipped, so that's on its way. Hopefully it'll get here by the end of the week. Question is though, I was planning on heading back west this weekend, so if the part doesn't show up until this weekend that doesn't leave me much time to get everything back together and bug test. There are a few T-18s around here between $200-$300, so part of me wants to go pick one of those up and drop it in, then just finish the rebuild on mine when I get back and sell whichever one is in worse condition. That would potentially take some of the stress off of the rest of this week.

 

Hope you have the truck back together but if not here is what I found when looking for a transmission for my 81 F100 with a 300 six.
The truck came with a T18 and I don't remember anything to wrong with the short test drive but after almost ending up in a ditch because of frozen kingpins I don't remember much LOL.

Well when I got it on the road the top cover was leaking oil so I pulled to reseal but when the cove was off I found the plastic pads on the end of the shift forks gone.
I also seen worn syncros and some teeth had wear from grinding, That was an issue I also had.
Not wanting to lay the truck up to rebuild the T18 and the $$ it would take to replace what I had seen I thought best to go used.

The only thing I was worried about is how long the trans was from bell housing face of the trans to the end of the tail shaft housing and if it had the right drive shaft flange, mine is a slip yoke.
Also seen where the input shaft bearing retainer, the part held on with 4 bolts, could be different size dia. and the length of the input shaft could be different.

I found a 1985 NP435, also has a granny first gear like the T18, to be a bolt in.
Yes to the T18 bell housing, cross member & rubber mount of the T18 and even the drive shaft slipped in.
I did get the slip yoke with the trans and I used it as it had a bigger Ujoint then my truck.
So that may open the door up to not only T18's but NP435's just measure the retainer dia. and the length.

Now I thru a wrench into my transmission swap, if I was going to pull a heavy trans I might as well get over drive too.
I installed an Advance Adaptor's range splitter OD unit. This pushes the trans back 7-1/2" so the cross member had to go back 7-1/2" and drive shaft also had to be shorten 7-1/2" .
In the cab the shifter moved back as well and had to cut a hole in the floor for the OD handle and I made changes to both of them to my liking.



I don't have many miles on the truck since the OD / NP435 swap but so far I love it as it has dropped the RPM so 70 MPH is a little easier on the motor and it would be nice if the MPG would go up a little from mid 14"s but will see as I just filled it up.
The money shot LOL

Keep us posted
Dave ----

 

More transmission woes. Pushed my return trip back a week and waited for the spring to arrive. Dad and I worked for a while to get everything reassembled and ran found another issue (last picture). The end of the main shaft that goes into the input shaft has all but one of the teeth broken off so the lock washer that holds the synchro hub in place can't sit on the end anymore. It just slides right off. With 1800 miles ahead of me and since the truck is already apart, I'm thinking it's time for me to go pick up another transmission. Ordering a main shaft and having it overnighted would be near $200 anyways. Thoughts? Should I risk just slapping it back together and pray it gets me back home?

Second picture is a ring of some kind that we pulled out of the belly of the case. Can anyone help identify it? I didn't recognize it as I went through and replaced all the different washers and whatnot.

 

Since the cost is near the same, I'd probably opt for the replacement were it me.

 

I think that is the way I would go also.
Just note what I posted in my post above on what to look out for to get one that is a bolt in.
Also may open the door if you look at the NP435 transmissions and not just for T18 transmissions.
Then again if you get a T18 what good parts you have now would fit it if need be.

I have no clue what that ring was to or for?
At first thought a snap ring like on the out put shaft holding the speedo gear in place but I see it is a " closed ring".
Maybe a thrust washer or spacer between clusters? Again no clue sorry.
Dave ----

 

Thanks Dave, that’s a good point. I think it’s actually the destroyed lock washer that got ground up to the point that it shattered.

On another note, I figured out why oil has been leaking so much. Three of the bolts holding the oil pan on had lock washers that looked like this. Not enough bite/seal = oil leak

 

I don’t think that’s a lock washer on your pan bolt. It looks like a copper washer to make a seal - one that has been over tightened.

 

Which section of the oil pan would have those copper washers? I think there were 6 or 7 of them that I found that had the washers worn down.

 

When you say pan I take it the PTO cover?
I have not removed mine but I don't think any of them had copper washers.
Lock washers maybe and a good gasket should all that's needed.
Dave ----

 

Sorry, should've clarified. I had a bad leak in the oil pan gasket on the motor so replaced that the other day. Said bolt was from there.

 

OK got it now
Well unless you were doing an oil change on an air cooled VW I have never seen copper washers used on pan bolts.
BTW the VW uses a small round plate that holds a screen in place. Paper gasket / screen / paper gasket / pan with bolts & copper washers and a drain bolt in the center with the copper washer.

Stock for our trucks pan bolts don't use copper washers, the pan gasket is what seals the bolts.
Dave ----

 

The original engine oil pan bolts used a captive lock washer; in other words the lock washer does not slide off the bolt as the internal diameter is smaller than a standard lock washer. Those lock washers were made of good, durable metal - I just don’t see how a lock washer of quality metal could be rendered that thin. The bolt would break before it compressed that thin. The truck is 50+ years old and others have worked on it before so it’s likely that is not an original oil pan bolt. And it is correct that a seal washer is not required for the oil pan bolts. Bolts with captive washers were commonly used to speed up steps on the assembly line. Your valve cover bolts, if original will also have captive Lock washers. Some of the bolts/nuts holding on your front fenders and other body panels will have captive or integrated serrated washers.


Bolt with captive lock washer