Trailer Safety Chains
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,277
Likes: 949
If it were my trailer, I'd probably replace the chain hooks before adding shackles. If it was a borrowed trailer or something, I'd want to use a quality USA made shackle like something from Columbus McKinnon
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 428
Likes: 16
From: Northeast PA
go with 5/8" shackles rated to 3-1/4 tons. Those can be had for as cheap as $5/ea for galvanized or you can get some nicer ones for $20/pair.
A shackle is rated in the line from the bell to the pin. There is a maximum of 120° of deviation within the bell with one point centered on the pin
The way most all of the photos are showing shackles in use is 90° to that with the load points pulling on the sides of the shackle against the threads, side loading the shackle which is not how they are rated.
A 90° load "still within the bell" reduces a shackles rating by 1/2, and thats if both loads are still within the bell of the shackle.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 443
Likes: 30
Yes, I found that the 7/16” curt hook fits and allows the spring loaded bail to close. They size them in a weird way, 7/16” refers to the width of the extension which the pin goes through, one on each side of the chain. I use 3/8” chain, that works, but I think 5/16” would have worked as well. The hooks are rated at 40k I think, so not likely to fail. They were pretty cheap on Amazon, about $15 each.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 428
Likes: 16
From: Northeast PA
+1
I just tested my trailer's hooks on the new truck for the first time and the hook slips right through the hole in the truck and the gate closes.
Cant imagine any reason for adding a shackle in there, especially if its going to load incorrectly in a failure.
If my hook did not fit, my intention was just to change the hook to one that would.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 4,064
Likes: 13
Bingo
+1
I just tested my trailer's hooks on the new truck for the first time and the hook slips right through the hole in the truck and the gate closes.
Cant imagine any reason for adding a shackle in there, especially if its going to load incorrectly in a failure.
If my hook did not fit, my intention was just to change the hook to one that would.
+1
I just tested my trailer's hooks on the new truck for the first time and the hook slips right through the hole in the truck and the gate closes.
Cant imagine any reason for adding a shackle in there, especially if its going to load incorrectly in a failure.
If my hook did not fit, my intention was just to change the hook to one that would.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 428
Likes: 16
From: Northeast PA
Mine is a '19.
I saw the pics of the '20s and it does look better than what they had done on <'19s
I saw the pics of the '20s and it does look better than what they had done on <'19s
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 186
From: Frederick, CO
I think the basis for my post and many of the replies is that the shackle rating is NOT how most people are orienting them.
A shackle is rated in the line from the bell to the pin. There is a maximum of 120° of deviation within the bell with one point centered on the pin
The way most all of the photos are showing shackles in use is 90° to that with the load points pulling on the sides of the shackle against the threads, side loading the shackle which is not how they are rated.
A 90° load "still within the bell" reduces a shackles rating by 1/2, and thats if both loads are still within the bell of the shackle.
A shackle is rated in the line from the bell to the pin. There is a maximum of 120° of deviation within the bell with one point centered on the pin
The way most all of the photos are showing shackles in use is 90° to that with the load points pulling on the sides of the shackle against the threads, side loading the shackle which is not how they are rated.
A 90° load "still within the bell" reduces a shackles rating by 1/2, and thats if both loads are still within the bell of the shackle.
So, cut that in half. The shackles are compromised and only can handle 3.5 tons or 7,000 lbs of weight. Again, use an unrealistic, poorly balanced trailer that puts 25% of its weight on the hitch. So, .25x=7000 ... you're pulling a 28,000 lb conventional trailer. None of this makes any real sense. So, I agree that the orientation may compromise some of these shackles' strength ratings. None of it matters. You only need about .75 tons of strength as you're only ever going to drop 1-2K of weight down onto those chains ... distributed across two shackles.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 428
Likes: 16
From: Northeast PA
Sure, but those shackles will distribute around 7 tons of weight. That's 14,000 lbs. Who's towing a conventional tow trailer that would drop 14,000 lbs onto the hitch?! Even if you took an unrealistic 25% figure, that would mean you were towing around a 56,000 lb conventional tow trailer.
So, cut that in half. The shackles are compromised and only can handle 3.5 tons or 7,000 lbs of weight. Again, use an unrealistic, poorly balanced trailer that puts 25% of its weight on the hitch. So, .25x=7000 ... you're pulling a 28,000 lb conventional trailer. None of this makes any real sense. So, I agree that the orientation may compromise some of these shackles' strength ratings. None of it matters. You only need about .75 tons of strength as you're only ever going to drop 1-2K of weight down onto those chains ... distributed across two shackles.
So, cut that in half. The shackles are compromised and only can handle 3.5 tons or 7,000 lbs of weight. Again, use an unrealistic, poorly balanced trailer that puts 25% of its weight on the hitch. So, .25x=7000 ... you're pulling a 28,000 lb conventional trailer. None of this makes any real sense. So, I agree that the orientation may compromise some of these shackles' strength ratings. None of it matters. You only need about .75 tons of strength as you're only ever going to drop 1-2K of weight down onto those chains ... distributed across two shackles.
The 50% is "if" both loads stay within the bell --and-- this is assuming no shock load.
The chances of both loads staying in line within the bell ---and--- no shock load if the unthinkable were to happen and a trailer were to break away to me seem highly unlikely.
Hopefully your math and physics are on your side that day if it ever comes.
Just passing along the info.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,031
Likes: 510
The picture posted earlier in the thread has the cable connected incorrectly.
