I will, I asked this question before but here goes again, is there anything that my computer operates anymore? Is this system I’m installing have anything to do with it, I can’t get any power to anything now but the seatbelt and another light comes on the dash when the door opens but nothing else -there’s some serious short or lack of ground somewhere and I’m putting a ground strap on the engine now—can I remove the computer and all the wires without affecting the important stuff? Or clipping the unused wires at the plug to try to eliminate the electrical problems and spaghetti wires under the hood,if so I’ll use the crummy wiring diagram in this chilton manual unless someone has a better more accurate one.

 

I'll see what I can find out from what's left of my harness. I think power comes into the distro box separate.

 

Just a quick update I put a ground strap for my engine block to the frame the original one was cut by the previous owner it’s looks like, turned the key all the lights came on the engine turned over so hopefully that’s the problem just got to get the ballast and everything hooked up now hopefully she’ll start

 

That's at least two solid steps in the right direction. My internet is funny right now. I'll try and update you on the computer system soon.

 

Watching this thread. I have the same year truck but mine has the feedback carb. I just ordered the painless harness, vacuum dizzy, DS II module w/ blue support, new coil, etc. Going with an older non-feedback, non-egr carb from an early 70's F150. Hoping this won't be too difficult. I live out in Wylie....where are you located in Dallas?

 

I stay out in Crandall southeast of Dallas, don’t let all of my whining discourage you I probably screwed something up along the way but I’m starting to get it now all my electric’s are working I just don’t have any spark I’m trying to figure out the red Wire coming out of the module it’s supposed to go to the input side of the ballast but without splicing a wire over to it I don’t see how that’s possible

 

For diagrams for your truck, you can't get any more accurate than the ones in this link. These are the best out there that Ford made. And they are the ones we keep inserting in these posts.

1986 EVTM - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)

What you are trying to do is in the diagram below. You found connector 321, it has the white/lightblue and the red/lightblue wires and the one mystery wire. Forget about the mystery wire. As the diagram shows below, all you have to do is hook the red power wire for the module to the white/lightblue wire. You now should have power to the module when you turn the key.

In the that same connector you have a red/lightblue. Hook that to the white wire to the ignition module. Now you have power to that wire when cranking, no need to mess around the starter relay like the painless wire description showed.

You have one wire left. That is a red/lightgreen wire which goes to connector 325. That should have been over there in the same neighborhood as the 321 connector. Find the red/lightgreen wire, run it to the coil +, you are done. No need to mess with a ballast resistor, you already have one in the harness.

 

P.S. You will have to make sure you have the darkgreen/yellow wire coming from the module, hooked to the negative of the coil. That should already be in your painless connector correct?

 

Yes the dark green wires hooked to the negative side the cable -yellow is not hooked to anything because I don’t have a tach I can’t find the red and light green wire that you’re speaking of, I’ve got the tape off the wire loom and I’ve checked every wire that’s red and none of them have a light green stripe

 

I don’t have a 325 plug unless it’s the one for the oil pressure and water temp -has a white wire with a red stripe besides the two gauge wires

 

This truck was worked on before and obiously was screwed with,it has things missing and electrical twist ties holding wires together from things (like a 325 plug) taken off or rigged,this is what ive got to work with as close to painless directions as I can get, everything at the starter relay works with the key, I just cant get spark- so with this in mind is there anything anyone can help me on what might be the reason it wont fire??

 

Hi there, it looks like you have the same problem that we had last month with your control module, ours is the 83 model 6cyl. We read online that the control modules on the vintage F-150s were prone to fail at around 175k so we wanted a spare so we bought a new 3 prong module (LX214) from Amazon that said that it fit our truck but it wouldn't run (our old one was also a 3 prong). We then bought a 3 prong module from Oriellys that didn't work (no spark), so we took it back also. We then found an Amazon module that was only a 2 prong that was also for an 83 truck (LX203T) so we bought it and plugged it in and the truck started right up, so we left the 3rd prong from the MCU plugged in to the 36 yr old control module and the new module (LX203T) plugged in to the other 2 prongs on the wiring harness and the truck seemed to run as well as it ever did, (we have had this truck since it was new in 83).
However we were afraid to run it this way because we were running the MCU computer on the old module (I think that that is what controls the feedback carburetor).
So we opted to replace the whole ignition system with a new distributor that is Ford on the bottom and Chevy HEI on the top from Amazon (about $140 and it came with the coil and new wires). It uses standard chevy HEI parts on top and it has one 12v wire that runs it, it also has the standard centrifugal advance under the rotor and the vacuum advance on the distributor body and we bought a pig tail for the tach that plugs in for about $8 more. The truck ran very well but we decided to replace the old feedback carb (1bbl) to see if we could improve the mileage from 12mpg to something better so we replaced the carb with a non-feedback (1bbl Partol), removed the EGR and air injector (smog) pump and replaced the cat with a glass pac muffler. The (A performance) distributor instructions said to advance the timing 4 degrees at idle (16 degrees) and it is now getting about 15mpg and it has considerably better power than it used to and it idles smoothly now. We haven't taken it out on a trip yet (pulling 22' trailer) but we are hopeful that it will do well this summer. I don't know if any of this info will be helpful to you but we just thought that it might so good luck to you on your project. Thanks for reading this long post, Steve

 

I looked and you are correct, C325 does have the oil pressure and water temp wires in it. I would keep looking hard for that red/lightgreen wire. You need ballasted power to the coil.

 

So, have you tried to wire the painless harness like page two of it's manual indicates, can't remember if you tried it that way, or if we distracted you before you did? Also, I'm guessing you haven't ADDED a 12v switched wire to the ballast resister from the kit? Looks like you're missing the connector with the switch power/ballast, think that's all your missing. https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30812.pdf

 

The diagram below is your original efi ignition system and how it was wired. The red/lightgreen wire on C325 plugged into a brown/pink wire which ran to your coil for the efi. Looking up on the upper right side of the diagram, I see this red/lightgreen wire had a tap-off that was not used in your application, but went to a C327. They say that is in the steering column area. I will see if I can find a picture, maybe you can come from there with a new wire for your coil.