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Sorry for the delay I’m in and out of work -Yes the one black cable on the right goes to the starter the red one on the left goes to the battery and the black one goes down to the alternator I know it’s large but the only cable I had when the other one broke.
Ok not a problem the way you have it but I thought you had other issues besides the DSII and why I asked.
Dave ----
Well I don’t know if it’s connected to the DS but when I do have power the engine turns over a few times and then all of it dies- no electric whatsoever,lights,starter,nothing and then 45 mins or so it pops back on-like a relay
I thought so, I read many post and get confused easy
Then small wires on the battery side of the relay power everything.
May want to recheck the connection at the relay as a start.
Then follow each of the small wires the best you can to see if they go to a breaker that could be tripping and then resetting.
Also when it happens try moving them wires and see it you get power back.
Dave ----
Yes I’ve done the wiggle test several times but can’t get a reaction, question on this particular problem does the computer power anything that I need now since I changed over to carburetor and an electric fuel pump replacing the high-pressure one can it just be removed with all the wires and start from scratch? I have another vehicle I use for work and a shop outback and the time.
Also as stated before, all electrical power is off, I grounded the module earlier and tapped on it with my hand and the lights came on and the engine would turn over, I plugged the red wire (shown) into the S side of relay and the brown wire from the painless harness from the coil into the "I" side of the relay as it states, the engine turned over a couple times then all electric power was gone again and hasn't come back since-none of this was occurring before the work started-hope I didn't fry something..any thoughts at what I can try next? Also Ive checked the 3 links by the relay and they all have continuity.
I keep coming back to this. Do you mean your duraspark II ignition module, or the voltage regulator on the opposite side of the engine bay? It could just be chance that tapping on the module made the power come on. If that is what you mean, I'd inspect the wires in that area to see if you have a partially open circuit.
Sorry for the confusion I’m converting my 1986 fuel injection over the carburetor and now I’m having some electrical problems one of which I keep losing power -my tapping on the module and the power coming back on I believe was just a coincidence as it pops on on its own,also when the engine does turn over it doesn’t fire so I think I may have something wired wrong in the duraspark system or the painless harness.
I had a power loss on my '84 F150, that started as intermittent and then went to complete power loss. It turned out to be a connector on the passenger side in which the prongs had corroded away. That connector took power into the cab. Probing the wires with a meter found that we had power on one side of the connector and not the other. Wired around the connector and all was good.
Sorry for the confusion I’m converting my 1986 fuel injection over the carburetor and now I’m having some electrical problems...
No need for an apology as it is not your fault the thread keeps going off in tangents. Is this thread a continuation of a previous thread? There have been a few similar threads recently and makes it confusing.
No need for an apology as it is not your fault the thread keeps going off in tangents. Is this thread a continuation of a previous thread? There have been a few similar threads recently and makes it confusing.
I am sure it started as a DSII swap but when trying to start he looses all power for 45 minutes then it pops back on.
He will need to take a meter or test light and when no power check if the battery has power on the posts NOT the clamps.
Then do the same on the clamps.
Then move down to the stud all the cables / wires are on and see you have power there. Try on the stud and EACH cable eyelet for power.
Tell us what you find.
Dave ----
I’m converting my 1986 fuel injection (EFI) over the (to) carburetor
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I am sure it started as a DSII swap but when trying to start he looses all power for 45 minutes then it pops back on.
He will need to take a meter or test light and when no power check if the battery has power on the posts NOT the clamps.Then do the same on the clamps.
Then move down to the stud all the cables / wires are on and see you have power there. Try on the stud and EACH cable eyelet for power.
Tell us what you find.
Dave ----
Particularly the resistor wire off the + side of the START SOL to IGN SW and the RED wire to the IGN MODUEL.
The schematics shown above are for a 1985 w/feedback carb or CFI so it may not show your actual wiring harness.
His duraspark module should have plugged right into the factory harness, no wiring necessary. I do not know why he didn't do that, we were guiding him through that in the first part of this thread, and then all of a sudden he is splicing wires to the module and the starter relay.
I’ve tried plugging the dsII system in at the beginning-nothing, I’ve tried using the painless harness with and without the ballast resistor following the instructions to the T-nothing, I’m trying everything everybody’s telling me and the engine won’t fire when it does turn over now I’m losing power, The brown wire on the painless diagram from the coil says it goes to the starter relay “I” terminal do I need this with the current set up I have? All the other wires go to the module from that harness except for the tach wire or is this only for the ballast setup?
That brown wire is shown in that diagram posted above. It's highlighted in red. It's a crank bypass to the coil to temporarily give it a full 12v to the coil during cranking.
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