When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well thanks for that lol, I tried and replaced everything on the EFI for this truck, I was told by 3 shops they couldn’t help me, an older mechanic said he had cold chills remembering working on it back in the day and Prestige Ford in Dallas refused to even look at it, I bugged everybody on here till they got irritated. I’m going through a tough time changing it to carb now considering I can only work on it on the weekend but when it came off that crap went straight into the garbage where it belongs...
That text, if you can still find it, is not meant to be a joke. It is the most concise text that will educate you on the systems and how to convert one way or another.
While one schematic shown here shows how the IGN CIRCUIT is powered, it does not show how either the vehicle or EEC is powered. And then you get ten to twenty suggestions all contradicting one another and it gets even more confusing.
Only a specialty shop would touch what you are wanting to do as most likely a shop or dealer will lose money on it (and another thought is it is illegal and another reason a shop won't touch it).
Oh I know it wasn’t a joke and I appreciate the information only reason for the LOL was all the EFI stuff was long gone in the garbage, I wish I’d had it before I started this—I’ll eventually get it tinkering with it and as far as being illegal here in Texas if the car or truck is over 25 years old then you can do anything you want to it under the hood or otherwise and it will pass basic state inspection, all they check is condition of tires, wiper blades, all lights and insurance and you’re good to go.
You have a what year/model truck with what engine and original fuel supply type?
When you got the truck, all of the EEC and emissions were removed? You are wanting to mount what carburetor and DS II? You bought a FRANCIS harness and what manufacturer ICM?
Very good idea, ok its a1986 1/2 ton Lariat that came with 302 EFI, the idle was very erratic mainly when the outside temp was hot or warm, it would surge badly especially when the a/c compressor kicked on to the point it was dangerous, I replaced everything that could be replaced that had anything to do with the EFI and no results--no shop would touch it so I decided to switch to carb because I heard how easy it was and should have been, now I have installed a Weiand intake, holley 600 4bbl, Painless harness #30812, distributor for a 1984 F150 5.0, coil with the tabs that the painless harness snaps onto (got it at Autozone and they cant tell me if its internal or ex resister) and a supposedly Motorcraft module (Ebay) that's appropriate for that era. Along with your response could you answer these questions--
1. What is the white/pink wire (the one below blue butt connector)) coming from the top of the 321 plug, theres only the 2 red and white wires on the module side, this wire is hot w key on/start .
2. Someone said as far as the resistor there should be one in the existing harness but im not using it so my question is the snap on tabs on my coil I have now an indicator of whether or not it has or needs a resistor-the seller doesn't know and its not written on the coil itself and I cant google any info on it. Its a SPEC #C832SPEC
3.Does the module need to be grounded as I have been told and done, its mounted on plastic fender well.
4.Does it matter that the wire colors on my module (the 4) are not in the same order as most Ive seen in pictures?
Very good idea, ok its a1986 1/2 ton Lariat that came with 302 EFI, the idle was very erratic mainly when the outside temp was hot or warm, it would surge badly especially when the a/c compressor kicked on to the point it was dangerous, I replaced everything that could be replaced that had anything to do with the EFI and no results--no shop would touch it so I decided to switch to carb because I heard how easy it was and should have been, now I have installed a Weiand intake, holley 600 4bbl, Painless harness #30812, distributor for a 1984 F150 5.0, coil with the tabs that the painless harness snaps onto (got it at Autozone and they cant tell me if its internal or ex resister) and a supposedly Motorcraft module (Ebay) that's appropriate for that era. Along with your response could you answer these questions--
1. What is the white/pink wire (the one below blue butt connector)) coming from the top of the 321 plug, theres only the 2 red and white wires on the module side, this wire is hot w key on/start .
2. Someone said as far as the resistor there should be one in the existing harness but im not using it so my question is the snap on tabs on my coil I have now an indicator of whether or not it has or needs a resistor-the seller doesn't know and its not written on the coil itself and I cant google any info on it. Its a SPEC #C832SPEC
3.Does the module need to be grounded as I have been told and done, its mounted on plastic fender well.
4.Does it matter that the wire colors on my module (the 4) are not in the same order as most Ive seen in pictures?
OK. Lets start with some basic info-
This truck came through with EEC-IV - EFI (Multi-Port) - TFI IGN (Module mounted on DIST bowl?
I don't understand why you could find no one to service the truck. It is a very common setup and being EEC-IV is fairly easy to diagnose.
Every shop I called or went to said that that year was a nightmare as far as fuel injection and they didn’t want to fool with it the dealership said it was too old and their tech person would not know how to diagnose the problem because there diagnostic machine would not work on it and yes I believe The module is on the distributor bowl
The only difference between your module and mine is the Red & White wires are on the Left side of your bundle and they are on the Right side of mine. They are in the same orientation in the connectors. So it should be correct.
1. What is the white/pink wire (the one below blue butt connector)) coming from the top of the 321 plug, theres only the 2 red and white wires on the module side, this wire is hot w key on/start
I can't find this wire in the diagrams.
2. Someone said as far as the resistor there should be one in the existing harness but im not using it so my question is the snap on tabs on my coil I have now an indicator of whether or not it has or needs a resistor-the seller doesn't know and its not written on the coil itself and I cant google any info on it. Its a SPEC #C832SPEC
If you bought the correct coil that will accept the horsehoe DSII connector, then your coil does not have a resistor built in. You will need a external resistor mounted if you are not using the stock wiring.
3.Does the module need to be grounded as I have been told and done, its mounted on plastic fender well.
The module needs to be grounded. But it doesn't get it's ground through the mounting, it gets it's ground through the wiring from the distributor.
4.Does it matter that the wire colors on my module (the 4) are not in the same order as most Ive seen in pictures?
Just plug it in like they have it. A lot of these modules are now made overseas, so they are not exactly made like the originals. They used to be able to check the modules at the parts stores to see if they are good. Their tester plugs right into the plugs.
Ok, so I have an 82 f100 with stock duraspark II system. I have an 85 f150 parts truck that originally had a 302 that someone TRIED to convert to carbureted without swapping ignition system. Gave the motor and trans to a buddy, so I don't have any of that wiring left. What is left is the female side of that plug. Cannot find a male plug anywhere on the truck. I unwrapped my 82 cab(it finally stopped raining) and crawled around it. I have that plug on my durspark system, but it does not have the top wire(white with red strip) Just the lower two(red/blue and white/blue) on the bottom, top slot is molded in the plug, but has it's "knock-out" still. If that helps any. Do you have that wire hooked up? I traced it on my 85 harness and it just white on mine(red may have faded) and runs into a resistor or a fuse or some kind of spout connector turns into a green/white and runs into the computer in the cab.
Yes it’s still hooked up on the male side of the plug but like yours there’s nothing on the module side,I haven’t tried To trace it yet to see where it goes
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.