I totally get it. When I saw some oil wetness on my oil cooler ends, I didn't hesitate, I did a gasket and O ring kit one weekend, like wise when the engine valley and rear of the engine was wet with oil from the turbo pedestal O rings.
So in my case, I saved myself the oil dump at cold temps. Knowing something like that exists, and that it would resolve it's self is something that would definitely bother me. But that's me.
After 2 years I'm finally past the previous owners lack of maintenance, the vehicle was really asking for service especially with cold start. Surging, loping, labored cranking, it was all there. I dove in with the Ford shop manual in hand and found sensor pigtail plugs with exposed wires, oil intrusion. I went through and replaced every critical and failing pigtail, and it's respective sensor. I hit the electrical system too with batteries, starter, and alternator all at once. It'a amazing how much better the engine performs now.

 

Sir, if I may suggest that you shop around for a better turbo. The Garrett 38R is tried and true, but it is old technology and there are much better and more efficient options available to you. If you are dead set on the 38R, DO NOT install a billet wheel into the compressor.

Keep us updated and we like pictures.

 

I would like to add to what Sous said about the turbo.
A delete pedistal does nothing for performance. It does remove a potential leak area at the expense of greatly increased warm-up times. I did it. That's how I know. If I had to do it over agian, because of where I live, I would rebuild or replace the stock pedistal. The 38R is a tried and true option. That was a decision I have no regrets about.

 

If your willing and have the funds go the T/4 route. This is my next upgrade in my long awaiting list of parts, I have no experince with the 38r but from reading here some that had the 38r that switched to t/4 are very happy.

 

NNever mind

 

I am Leary of doing the 99 wheel as it is, but I know I won't do anything aftermarket, only drop in, and there are too many left and right responses about the journal versus the ball bearing Garrett.

So please add to your opposition with some supporting information for me to research regarding the wheel. This is how constructive dialogue begins.
My pedestal EBPV does work on occasion as we are seldom cold enough for it to be really needed.

 

In that case the 38r is your best bet. It out performs even modified stock turbos. It's also proven reliable.

 

I am very aware of how constructive dialogue begins, continues and ends. Hence the reason why I started with "sir", kept my description vague, but detailed enough to inspire curiosity about other options.

You seem to have your mind made up on your course of action, that is a good thing. There will always be those who agree and those who disagree with you. They have these thoughts due to lessons learned, personal experiences or just from seeing it happen second hand. That is OK if they disagree with you, that is their right and it is OK for you to choose a different path after asking for opinions. That is your right...

Constructive criticism and offering of ideas and experiences is the only thing I see happening in this thread. As an active duty military retiree after 22 years, 3 months and 27 days I know how to inspire, lead, encourage, correct and be downright belligerent.

We at the FTE only wish the best of luck to you in you choices, even if some of us disagree with them. Unlike other forums, the FTE WILL NOT call you names or berat you for your choices. It is your truck, your money, your time and your experience.

That said, the 38R is YOUR best option, but not THE best option. Maybe you should keep the stock turbo and replace it with a new one instead of going to the 38R. There are some negative aspects that you may not be happy with regarding noise, lag and other small things. All of that information is available to you via the search function here on the FTE. The advanced search function here on the FTE. Or, the Google search function on the FTE found in the sticky thread which I have pasted below for you.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-7-3l-psd.html

I would encourage you to get a beverage of your choice, a laptop or desktop computer, a pen and paper and start searching for the answers to your questions. They have been asked and discussed hundreds of times. I encourage that method of seeking advice because that way you don't have to be on the receiving end of constructive criticism, experiences, lessons learned or anything else you are not interested in or disagree with.

Good luck to you sir and keep us posted!

 

I would actually prefer that FTE call me names, Chris actually. I read back but don't see what I was looking for in this thread, I don't recall mentioning adding a "99" wheel to the 38R, but probably to the stock 38. Yes, I found information regarding lag on the 38R, etc., I could care less about additional turbo noise, having been use to the stock injector noise, and slight highway drone from MBRP exhaust (installed by previous owner), unless I'm towing the X mainly stays in the garage. You still haven't constructively elaborated on your opposition on a billet wheel, ("DO NOT install a billet wheel into the compressor") of which I'm not sure if the "99" wheel actually is billet. Unless the wicked wheel, and the early Ford "99" wheel are the same material or design. Other than the exhaust, lift (from P/O) which I had to re-do, tires (from (P/O) that I replaced with like, and International water pump with matching thermostat (my add-on), (tuner being a non consideration) It's stock. It seems that my own personal experience will eventually decide not only what works, what works for me, and if I need to repeat upgrades/replacements. Again, there's nothing wrong with peoples opinions conveyed through their own personal experience, I'd really like to hear more than, don't so this, don't do that, or it's working fine don't touch it. A great companion to peoples experiences and opinions offered by them would be good published data supporting their stance. But at the end of the day, it seems that he best answer lies with your own personal experience and disappointments.
I did just stumble on this thread, and will have to read through when I have time.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-question.html

 

There are literally hundreds of threads that you can read discussing everything and anything you would like to know. You can find pictures and long elaborate answers to your questions instead of reading my "non-constructive" seemingly short outbursts of random information.

To summarize...

- The noise from a 38R is more than a stock turbo can ever aspire to make. Some people like a whistling tea kettle under the hood, others do not.

- The billet wheel in a 38R is known to explode and send metal through the turbo. This is not an absolute, but it does happen.

This is the best advice that any of us could have ever given.

Sometimes the FTE members like to keep their answers short and sweet because their answers have been repeated hundreds of times. Usually if there is a problem or a breakdown, that repeating knowledge is in fact repeated because the person is in need of a fix action in order to get back on the road.


Now if you will forgive me, I cannot devote any more time to this thread as I must make burial arrangements for an immediate family member at Rock Island Arsenal National Cemetery. Good luck with your finding the answers you seek. Keep us updated and we like pictures!

 

Hi Cris, my name is Paul.
Re: Billet wheels in 38R turbos have a bad track record. I believe there are balance issues. You won't know until the turbo becomes scrap metal. The 99 wheel is also known as a Wicked Wheel is often used to control surge in stock turbos. The 38R has a ported compressor housing to control surge. There is no benefit to using it in a 38R. Look at my signature and you see that I have learned a lot the hard way.

 

I replace mine because it was leaking (for the second time) with a factory Bosch remanufactured HPOP from DieselORings September of 2018. It was $544, no tax, no delivery charges either to me or for the Core to be shipped back ($150 core charge). Great personal service, even calling me to tell me I didn't need a gasket because it was included with the pump, so he wasn't going to charge me for one. Core charge refund was the same day they received the core. Still running fine and no leaks. First leak was the non-serviceable plug. I replaced that and it held but then the rear seal started leaking.

 

I was trying to clarify this morning that if I did the 38R I would not modify it, unless you are saying that the 38R out of the box is already using a Billet wheel? I was looking at the options of stock modified 38. But to clarify, the Wicked Wheel being Billet aluminum, is the same Billet wheel used in the early 99, or is that early wheel of a different material?

 

Your 2 leakers were Ford reman pumps?

 

[QUOTE=Good luck with your finding the answers you seek. Keep us updated and we like pictures! [/QUOTE]


I have a fairly pic heavy thread I started a year go or more, shouldn't be hard to locate as I seldom start a thread.