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I was trying to clarify this morning that if I did the 38R I would not modify it, unless you are saying that the 38R out of the box is already using a Billet wheel? I was looking at the options of stock modified 38. But to clarify, the Wicked Wheel being Billet aluminum, is the same Billet wheel used in the early 99, or is that early wheel of a different material?
Dont do the 38R, it takes all day to spool vs the KC300x turbos and they make just as much power with even lower EGTs and less noise. Sous is right, it’s an old, outdated turbo.
I had the 38r for a couple years and 20k miles - best thing I ever did was remove it in favor of the 300x. The 300x has the exact dimensions of the 38r and bolts in just like stock.
The 300x is also less expensive. It’s considerably quieter. It’s rebuildable (38r is not). Spools WAY faster. I ran up Eisenhower pass yesterday lightly loaded without a single downshift, no smoke. If I tried that with the 38R I would have been struggling to maintain speed and billowing black clouds.
10 years ago the 38R was a great choice, that is no longer the case.
38R works OK, but you need to keep it above the 2100 RPM range and that can be a challenge. It will fall on its face below that so many times
you will need to shift down. This also can be a challenge towing as 2100 RPM is about 70MPH in OD. Hills require dropping out of OD most of the
time.
With the new designs much of that is gone, but I will work with the 38r as the cost to upgrade is a bit much to replace something that is working as designed.
IF I were at the point where I needed a turbo I would really look at the SXE ones.
Also the deleted pedistol and EBP valve arenot needed southern or even most mid states. The northern states it may be nice to have.
Dont do the 38R, it takes all day to spool vs the KC300x turbos and they make just as much power with even lower EGTs and less noise. Sous is right, it’s an old, outdated turbo.
I had the 38r for a couple years and 20k miles - best thing I ever did was remove it in favor of the 300x. The 300x has the exact dimensions of the 38r and bolts in just like stock.
The 300x is also less expensive. It’s considerably quieter. It’s rebuild-able (38r is not). Spools WAY faster. I ran up Eisenhower pass yesterday lightly loaded without a single downshift, no smoke. If I tried that with the 38R I would have been struggling to maintain speed and billowing black clouds.
10 years ago the 38R was a great choice, that is no longer the case.
With the exception of the replacement you are speaking of, haven't heard this as an option yet, this is what I have been running into opinion wise regarding the 38R. But the main feature is the ball bearing design allowing for faster spooling, so it's said. Direct bolt on I'm fine with, just staying away from modifications likely needed to make aftermarket parts work. I'll do some research on the KC300x. This is the first I've seen this one.
I called them today, they offer 2 drop ins for my year range, a 63/73, and 63/68. Although he was helpful, was also eager to suggest injectors, do a pedestal delete and eager to suggest when I'm ready to place my order a few times. I'm less worried about tackling the turbo at the moment, I want to finish plotting my course on the oil system, associated hoses, and all the parts I have for under the valve covers. I did however rid myself of severe turbo surging a couple years back by replacing the loose vacuum hoses for the waste-gate actuator, the MAP sensor, and tossing the Banks Big Head actuator from the previous owner, replaced with a stock rated one.
I called them today, they offer 2 drop ins for my year range, a 63/73, and 63/68. Although he was helpful, was also eager to suggest injectors, do a pedestal delete and eager to suggest when I'm ready to place my order a few times. I'm less worried about tackling the turbo at the moment, I want to finish plotting my course on the oil system, associated hoses, and all the parts I have for under the valve covers. I did however rid myself of severe turbo surging a couple years back by replacing the loose vacuum hoses for the waste-gate actuator, the MAP sensor, and tossing the Banks Big Head actuator from the previous owner, replaced with a stock rated one.
If stock injectors, EBPV, etc will remain, the 63/68 is your best bet and will run circles around the 38R in every way. Forgot to mention my 38R surged really bad too... not the 300x. Full throttle up a hill at 1500 RPMs and no surge. The 38R would be all kinds of pissy that low