Replacement HPOP question
If it works and holds pressure, leave it alone. If it leaks from the usual spots, replace the o-rings.
People that don't know these trucks and haven't done their due diligence show up on these forums with this misinformed crap and it does no one any good. Rant over.
If it works and holds pressure, leave it alone. If it leaks from the usual spots, replace the o-rings.
What future readers will see is the ignorance to which my original question was never really answered by people that have gone down the same road I chose to go down. When those people can take off their colored glasses and stop seeing things in only the way "they" would approach "my" situation than maybe the thread will actually offer useful information that any future reader will benefit from.
By the way I have almost a year lead time before my trip, plenty of time to run the ***** out of the vehicle in an effort to see what replaced parts might give me issues.
After calling a few pros in the world of 7.3, and transmission re-builders, I will be purchasing my HPOP from Ford. I'll benefit with a 2 year warranty, and a price match to the other seller. With Ford I also have to ability to keep my core as long as I want, receiving a refund when I choose to turn it in.
People that don't know these trucks and haven't done their due diligence show up on these forums with this misinformed crap and it does no one any good. Rant over.
Preventive maintenance is key for a dinosaur and legendary engine like ours. Replacing proven reliable parts just because is frowned upon by our community. That is OK because this is your truck and your money.
Buying remanufactured parts from the dealer just because they say Motorcraft on them is another practice we do not subscribe to. Ford/International parts are critical to some areas like sensors and seals, but there are much better choices out there for parts like the HPOP. We know this because of the 20 years of experience and stories of success or failure. A new HPOP from Bosch (factory replacement) is going to be a much better choice every time than a remanufactured HPOP in a Motorcraft box. If you are dead set on remanufactured, look at CNC Fabrication or Diesel Site instead. They are probably the same price you are paying at the dealer, but a much better unit.
What about other critical systems/parts in/around the engine? Things like injectors, IPR, MAP sensor, plenums, water pump, LPOP, etc...
Perhaps you should pull the engine and replace everything and do a top end service on the engine since you have the time and funds. I would...
So, don't take the advice that the fellas are giving and that you asked for as a slight. Most of these guys can work on these trucks blindfolded and are merely trying to help you down the right path, since that is what you asked for.
One more thing, dealers are grossly overpriced and generally ignorant when it comes to our trucks. There are some that will price match, but even then the service department will never turn a wrench on my truck if I can help it. Motorcraft parts are available through places like Riffraff, Diesel-O-Rings and many more.
Good day to you and keep us updated...
C'mon guys, he gets it. He understands for 90% of us it's throwing money at a problem that probably may never occur, but it's his money. Once he understands replacement isn't necessary, but he still wants to, instead of continuing to denigrate, let's help him spend his money on the HPOP that will work best for what he wants.
Stewart
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
These are really new pumps. I used one, nothing was remanufactured on it.
Preventive maintenance is key for a dinosaur and legendary engine like ours. Replacing proven reliable parts just because is frowned upon by our community. That is OK because this is your truck and your money.
Buying remanufactured parts from the dealer just because they say Motorcraft on them is another practice we do not subscribe to. Ford/International parts are critical to some areas like sensors and seals, but there are much better choices out there for parts like the HPOP. We know this because of the 20 years of experience and stories of success or failure. A new HPOP from Bosch (factory replacement) is going to be a much better choice every time than a remanufactured HPOP in a Motorcraft box. If you are dead set on remanufactured, look at CNC Fabrication or Diesel Site instead. They are probably the same price you are paying at the dealer, but a much better unit.
What about other critical systems/parts in/around the engine? Things like injectors, IPR, MAP sensor, plenums, water pump, LPOP, etc...
Perhaps you should pull the engine and replace everything and do a top end service on the engine since you have the time and funds. I would...
So, don't take the advice that the fellas are giving and that you asked for as a slight. Most of these guys can work on these trucks blindfolded and are merely trying to help you down the right path, since that is what you asked for.
One more thing, dealers are grossly overpriced and generally ignorant when it comes to our trucks. There are some that will price match, but even then the service department will never turn a wrench on my truck if I can help it. Motorcraft parts are available through places like Riffraff, Diesel-O-Rings and many more.
Good day to you and keep us updated...

And this would be the first reply to remotely address my question, go figure.
I actually have been and am still replacing critical systems, a LPOP is going to happen as well. New Alliant stock injectors are going in while I'm in there doing glow plugs, gaskets, and harnesses. The dealer has replaced the front hubs, and lockers, outside of that I do everything else.
C'mon guys, he gets it. He understands for 90% of us it's throwing money at a problem that probably may never occur, but it's his money. Once he understands replacement isn't necessary, but he still wants to, instead of continuing to denigrate, let's help him spend his money on the HPOP that will work best for what he wants.
Stewart
There are areas of this vehicle that I will just replace rather than rebuild or otherwise regardless of a parts condition. And that's just the way it is. I have no regrets with the things I've replaced, repaired, or worked on, and never had to do revisit any of my work.
I've spent a lot of money on this vehicle at the expense of the previous owner, and I'm finally getting to my style of preventive maintenance.
I actually have been and am still replacing critical systems, a LPOP is going to happen as well. New Alliant stock injectors are going in while I'm in there doing glow plugs, gaskets, and harnesses. The dealer has replaced the front hubs, and lockers, outside of that I do everything else.

You are on the right track with the injectors as well, good choice!
I hope the Ford unit serves you welll. Since it is a reman, I would suggest pressure testing it just to ensure you received a good unit. The Alliant’s are a good call. We all enjoy learning from each other, let us know what how things work out for you.
can go wrong, even recently replaced parts. Even a new truck and have an issue.
Even that time I had to stay a night in Flagstaff and it got darn cold, dumped a quart of oil on the ground until the oil cooler o-rings warmed up.. Didnt
bother me because I knew what it was and knew it would resolve itself enough to drive another 1500 miles.
I hope the Ford unit serves you welll. Since it is a reman, I would suggest pressure testing it just to ensure you received a good unit. The Alliant’s are a good call. We all enjoy learning from each other, let us know what how things work out for you.
I hope the Ford unit serves you we'll. Since it is a reman, I would suggest pressure testing it just to ensure you received a good unit. The Alliant’s are a good call. We all enjoy learning from each other, let us know what how things work out for you.[/QUOTE]
I had planned on doing a turbo upgrade to the 38R with deletes, I'm currently stock Garrett along with larger injectors. There's just too many opinions on what size injector, ball bearing versus journal, it's just futile to follow any advise cause no one can really agree. And it's not about the install or technique of those upgrades for me, it's about the end result which requires first hand experience of what was installed, and how it affects the bottom line, IE: power, performance, EGT's ETC. Replacement of injectors and the turbo are something I only want to do once. The turbo removal is not really a big deal, I've already replaced the pedestal O rings, and the oil cooler O rings too. I think I'll feel satisfied replacing with new OE stock caliber injectors, replacing the turbo with another new Garrett journal bearing and have the wheel replaced, along with a new non EBP pedestal, and outlet. That should enhance the performance I'm pretty happy with now, and refine it some, allowing me to stay with my canned tunes on the PHP Hydra chip.

















