Here's a good read on a guy here who did this job and a few other maintenance items with the cab removed - helps to visualize what's involved.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...and-pms-2.html

 

Thanks.
what about these pipes? I looked up Dormans and about the same price. Did Dorman fix the hardware issues they were having? Great except for needing other bolts supposedly.
https://kcturbos.com/collections/7-3...pipe-kit-xd178

 

Instructions from Riffraff on this up-pipe job.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conte...structions.pdf

 

Another thread on tracking down boost leaks: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...oost-leak.html

Hopefully someone else will weigh in on the quality of the Dorman or XDP up-pipes. I have not done that particular job.

 

This is where you try to imagine what else you might think of replacing as you're tearing the turbo out. Some people have done it without pulling it, but they didn't appear to have any rust and were able to get a bunch of extensions and swivel sockets behind there. If you are going the turbo removal route, I highly advise you to plan what else you could get while in there.
-ebpv rebuild or delete
-rebuild or replace turbo with new complete or wheels
-frX
-plenum boots and inserts
-egt gauges are super easy to clean up the holes drilled
-inspect pax side fuel line.

 

Many people like the Dorman because of price, and I don't blame them for feeling that way. To present another point of view, I order gobs-O-hardware at work for machinery that operates under extreme conditions. I have one rule, learned through expensive lessons many years ago - no Chinese steel in anything we buy, including pipe and bearings.

In my view, Dorman goes in the truck to make it ready to sell - and you let the buyer know Dorman is in there. The discriminating buyer (a picky builder like me) might lowball the offer at exactly the amount it takes to buy IH up pipes.

 

I’m with Rich, buy once cry once. I bought Clay’s bellowed ups for my E99.

 

Any disadvantage to deleting the ebpv vs a rebuild? Does it put any extra strain or decrease longevity on turbo, etc?
Thinking about doing these.....


i recently inspected the pax fuel line and looked good but never hurts for sure.

 

Consider using Riffraff for these. They are a sponsor here and have favorable pricing, service.

I went this route on my rig, as I did not need the warm-up feature, nor the possible exhaust brake application with the appropriate tune. I did it primarily to eliminate another source of oil leakage, and hoped for an EGT drop.

 

I’ve just been chatting with riffraff. Definitely going with them. Which rebuild kit do you recommend for turbo? Getting me mostly line up for sure. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/turbo-rebuild-kits/

 

I didn't, but I wish I had just rebuilt the turbo and put in new wheels.

 

Either the 270* or 360* kit for $59.xx is what you'll want, plus the reinstall kit with 2 bolts and 4 orings. Use blue loctite on the pedestal to engine, and turbo center cartridge to pedestal bolts

If you plan on the delete, RR prices are less than those Amazon ones

Plan on replacing all the 12point bolts as well, at this age they are probably corroded enough to make any future disassembly a headache. Assuming they come out in one piece. I had the misfortune of one bolt binding and then shearing off in the exhaust housing, the others threads and heads didn't instill confidence in reinstalling them, but i had already bought new ones to replace then ahead of time. I'd also recommend chasing the exhuast housing threads with a tap before reassembly.

Anti-seize in the v band clamp's contact surface is also something I'd reccomend.

Here's my Thread on the rebuild and EBPV/pedestal delete

 

I'm in a cold environment in the winter, and that EBPV quite literally saves my *** (from freezing off). I'm also in mountainous terrain, and I use the engine braking feature afforded by the EBPV - every day.

I have to ask point-blank here: Of all those who removed the EBPV, how many saw any form of measurable (with gauges or the like) improvement in performance?

 

Doesn't Frankie currently have a delete pedestal?

Not everyone has access to a good and properly functioning engine brake, exhaust brake, decel tune or whatever you want to call it tune. Nothing wrong with keeping the EBPV if the owner lives in a cold climate and likes to hear it activate to warm their *** when needed.

Point blank answer - I removed my EBPV and installed a Gartett delete pedestal, Garrett high flow turbine outlet, RR 4/4 compressor wheel, Hydra, DS Turbo Master, 4" MBRP exhaust, H/H and Racor, etc... at the same time, so my measurable improvement in performance was impossible to measure for the EBPV delete alone.

I will say that because I live in north GA, the EBPV had zero effect on my life or my ***.

I will say that the EBPV never leaked or got stuck ever again after I installed the GAParrett outlet and delete pedestal. That is because it was thrown in the trash where it's old leaking *** belonged.

I will say that the mountains and grades around the country are not a problem towing heavy if proper gear selection and speeds are involved. We have been through most of the continental U.S. several times. I cannot count how many days we have spent driving around MT, ID, CO, UT, WA, OR, AZ, NV, etc... because we have friends and family there.

So, with proper speed prediction and gearing (isn't this where the coast clutch on a 4R100 comes into play?), leak prevention and a high idle by tuner selection or the truck has one as well when in park and it is cold out the EBPV may not be required. On my ZF6 the truck must be in neutral and parking brake on fire the Ford/PCM high idle to kick on.

Do I think the measurable performance gains of removing the EBPV are minimal, yes. If any at all if we are being point blank with each other. Although, the preventive maintenance portion is what I was going for and achieved a clean and non-leaking valley after the delete. That was my goal for removing the EBPV.

The EBPV delete is not for everyone, but it suits a lot of 7.3'rs.

 

I deleted mine over the summer and added a billet wheel at the same time. Only improvement I saw was a little bit more power on the bottom end. That and I didn’t have oil leaking out of the pedestal anymore. The EBPV pedestal was leaking oil out of the rod hole (idk the technical term, but rod hole works). When it gets cold, I just use my 1000rpm high idle tune to warm up quicker.
Now if I towed a lot in the mountains, I can see where using it as an exhaust brake would be very beneficial. Main reason I went with the delete pedestal was because it was cheaper, and has less moving parts, SO, in theory it should be less prone to leaks and be more reliable.