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I don't have data for measurable performance increase with the high flow outlet. I believe I added the ATS compressor housing at the same time.
At 19K GCWR, I did occasionally apply my service brakes briefly/firmly to decrease speed coming down Steven's Pass and/or manually triggered the trailer brakes (cargo trailer). With the boat on, I just had service brakes, trailer surge brakes, and the right gear selection to keep things in check, but same technique. I did not feel the brake usage was excessive.
If I had a heavier boat, I'd look into electric brakes instead of the surge brakes I had on the 21ft Searay trailer, so I wouldn't have that added push down the mountain.
Hey Rich, Does a non oiled clutch from a leaky EBPV count as gaining performance?
The dipstick holds the same level now from one oil change to the next.
As for warm up, i just put it in high idle and by the time I've scraped the 400sq foot of windows on the crew cab and put my step ladders away its usually warmed up enough for defrost to at least be defog if i forgot to plug it in the night b4.
Well. I made a boost leak detector in those 3 inch as instructed in video and 4 inch and neither one of them are correct. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen 3 1/2.
Did find one leaky boot but immediately stopped on tightening. Other spot is front of y piece. Not sure if coming from the bad o ring there or not. What is best way to stop in that area?
For future readers fyi, the above photo in post #36 is shown doing the boost leak test incorrectly. The cap should go in the section connected to the turbo as shown in post #34, not the section connected to the CCV mounted on the valve cover.
As for stopping the leak coming from that section of the Y mated to the turbo compressor, worst case you may have to loosen the clamps of the Y going to plenums, and the worm clamp vband at the oring and rock the spider to mate to compressor better then re tighten the 3 clamps. Might get away with just wiggling and adjusting the worm clamp vband at the oring
Well that’s good to know. Hopefully I didn’t mess anything up... Ironically I got it from the video that was posted above on how to build one. Look at video starting about 320 in. Ugh.
It'll work at either spot. There's several videos besides this one that show connecting at the airbox. It just adds more places to leak air that can make it tougher to locate the actual leaks, but not impossible. Looks like you found some. That's good.
Did find one leaky boot but immediately stopped on tightening. Other spot is front of y piece. Not sure if coming from the bad o ring there or not. What is best way to stop in that area?
In front of the "Y piece" (spider)? I don't suppose you have the ability to circle the leak on your picture. Irfanview is a safe, free, and easy photo editor - I've been using it since the 90's.
Yeah. The spider. I suspect it is from the plenum boots but need to get some soapy water to find out. I’ve already ordered the plenum boots and inserts anyway so even if it is there this will be fixed. Thanks for al your help.
One thing I observed even after installing the riffraff boots was that boost went down the next week. I had to torque them two times after installing because they crush down over time and leak. So just keep an eye on it.
Got a hydra planning to install too. Am I asking for turbo surge without upgrading the compressor housing or going to a billet wheel given I’m also deleting the ebpv?
Im kind of at the top of my budget. Should I not do ebpv delete and get a Riff Raff wheel?
Most likely will surge. A stepped wheel will cure it. Or going much more expensive, a ported housing and wheel setup.
The EBPV delete is not a performance mod, it's a an oil leak preventative maintenance mod, so if yours isn't leaky you can put it off till your budget allows. Riff Raff brand delete parts are cheaper than Garrett and still high quality
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