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I went with the 1944-6OK-HD myself, not really happy with the looong travel required to fully disengage, better than stock, but I prefer things a bit quicker. May wind up shortening the pedal a little.
I have the 1939-OHD which is the same clutch as the 1944-60K-HD, but without the flywheel from SB. My clutch engages/disengages high in the pedal travel. I would say about 25% toward the floor (from the dash) the clutch will start to disengage and fully disengaged by 75% of pedal travel toward the floor. Vice versa with engagement.
Often times when sitting at a light, I will bring the pedal up from the floor to about 30% or so. I rarely push the pedal to the floor, but I do push to the floor on startup.
Different strokes for different folks though... I am very happy with the SB clutch and would and have recommend it to a friend. Good thing we have the ability to shop around and change the parts out as we see fit.
I have the 1939-OHD which is the same clutch as the 1944-60K-HD, but without the flywheel from SB. My clutch engages/disengages high in the pedal travel. I would say about 25% toward the floor (from the dash) the clutch will start to disengage and fully disengaged by 75% of pedal travel toward the floor. Vice versa with engagement.
Often times when sitting at a light, I will bring the pedal up from the floor to about 30% or so. I rarely push the pedal to the floor, but I do push to the floor on startup.
Different strokes for different folks though... I am very happy with the SB clutch and would and have recommend it to a friend. Good thing we have the ability to shop around and change the parts out as we see fit.
Don't they use different clutche hubs as well. I thought they 1944 series used a LUK style hub and the 1939 uses a Spicer style hub, maybe that's not the case anymore.
You could be right... I seem to remember that the SB rep told me over the phone when I called for advice that the 1944-60K-HD and the 1939-OHD were the same clutch, but the 1939-OHD was designed for owners reusing the OEM flywheel after it has been resurfaced. That was three years ago though and I have consumed many cold, frosty beers since then and slept, so I could be wrong.
There really isn't one that I know of... A few members have accomplished it and posted a few pictures, but no true write-ups like you are looking for. SSJ completed my drain mod while he had the transmission out.
Here is a picture of how @Wes444 completed the mod.
I seem to remember someone asking about this mod and a few of us chiming in on how to complete it, but I was unable to find the thread through a search.
Oh gosh. I should have taken the wire wheel and black Rustoleum to the transmission spacer before posting that picture if it's going to get circulated like this
Mod is fairly easy once you do all the other work required to get in there. Take a 1/2" 90 elbow and 1/2" bendable soft copper and go from the drain hole in the valley to the bottom of the block where it drains out. I had mine quite tight, i took a file to the end to get it shaped just right and used a prybar to force it into position, then filled the whole lower 1/2" of the engine drain cavity around the tube with a liquid metal epoxy. It ain't gonna move due to engine vibration. Or at least it still hadn't last month when i felt around the block drain while i was under there checking out some other things while i was running wire
Oh gosh. I should have taken the wire wheel and black Rustoleum to the transmission spacer before posting that picture if it's going to get circulated like this
Mod is fairly easy once you do all the other work required to get in there. Take a 1/2" 90 elbow and 1/2" bendable soft copper and go from the drain hole in the valley to the bottom of the block where it drains out. I had mine quite tight, i took a file to the end to get it shaped just right and used a prybar to force it into position, then filled the whole lower 1/2" of the engine drain cavity around the tube with a liquid metal epoxy. It ain't gonna move due to engine vibration. Or at least it still hadn't last month when i felt around the block drain while i was under there checking out some other things while i was running wire
I don’t try to seal it at the bottom so if anything does get past the top it has an easy way out. But that doesn’t mean you did it wrong!
My goal when I did this the first time was to just to provide a path of least resistance for stuff from valley to bottom of block/bell housing.
Thanks guys, I have decided to take my truck to a local mechanic that comes highly recommended from other diesel owners, he is quoting $600-$700 for putting in the clutch/flywheel and whatever else I want him to do while the trans is down. He is asking for something to be able to give him on how to do the drain tube mod. I will have to supply the parts for him.
I would do this myself but after reading and rereading Wes's thread I will save my back for another job.
I would do this myself but after reading and rereading Wes's thread I will save my back for another job.
Oh, don't let my thread scare ya off. I spent a lot of my time doing the extra "while i'm there" stuff and attempting to keep my hands from going numb, and getting to spend some priceless one on one time with my son. I had the time to take it slow so I did. Now i have less time, but available funds for labor so if i found a SSJ type of place to take it to i probably would. I weigh in @ 148# for my 5'10" frame, and other than torque wrenches and transmission jack all tools used were harbor frieght, so i believe nearly anyone could do it. Especially the can do types on here
Waiting for the other parts to get in. The clutch and flywheel came in yesterday. The UPS driver was cussing me for having to carry that flywheel long distance
I am picking her up from the mechanic this afternoon. I gave them all the directions you guys gave me for the drain tube mod and he was able to do it no problem, I supplied them the pipe and supplies and pictures for it. Thank You guys for that!!!
They also found a bad ujoint on my front driveshaft (locked up) so that could have been adding to the vibrations and noise as well, they put in a moog so hopefully she should be quiet once again. The input shaft was messed up so they used the fitzall repair kit I gave them and also got rid of the kevlar bushing and used the fitzall pilot bearing instead. I also gave them the new updated clutch fork to put in so hopefully she should be good to go now!
So in all they put in:
Southbend Flywheel
Southbend HD clutch
Southbend parts
Fitzall parts
Updated clutch fork
Drain tube mod
Moog ujoint and new straps
I can't wait to give her a spin, would I be good to go camping this weekend on a new clutch? Do I need to break it in before putting it to work? Just want to make sure I don't mess it up
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