First, as you know these are mass production motors. Not all the heights would be the same from the factory. Close, but not the same. Hence why if you read the swamps link they say factory was 71-79. The springs vary a little, and the height did too. Then you will have some wear on the heads from years of springs pounding on the seats. Then you will have some valve seats worn more than others, probably the exhaust more than the intakes. That can push the valve in the head more also increasing the distance. This explains the importance of measuring.

Stage ones with even a stock turbo can push 30-35lbs of boost. Like swamps link showed, over 45 they recommended 1.78. You won't hit that with a stock turbo but 1.80 is a very safe number, and your valve train will be more in control. Those injectors are capable of a lot, I hit 46lbs with ones, bigger turbo though, and every supporting mod besides.

It's not that 1.85 won't work, I'm just saying what I'd do. If you ever plan on a bigger turbo no way I'd go over1.80 though.

Your numbers could easily vary more than mine, I have new valves and seats in the heads.

When you put the ones in it, I'd put pushrods in too. More stability in the valve train. You can do now, but I dont want to make you buy all this stuff at once unless you want. It can be an endless way to spend money if your not careful. I wasn't.

 

Thank you, I’m with you in shooting for the 1.8” spec. I should be able to measure each and shim within 0.020”.

As for the pushrod, are they as easy as it seems once the rocker is off? I was looking at Smith Bro’s on RR but it showed .83” thickness and 1.20”. Why the option?

Also, rocker torque spec 15#?

 

Most guys just run the .030 shim and call it good. Talk to Clay at Riffraff and that's what he will tell you to. And oh, that HPOP will make a big difference. It did on mine. Specially if your running a tuner.

 

After doing some more reading it looks like the comp 910s will require the .030 shim as they are a little shorter than stock so that seems to be needed. I’ll measure and go from there.

Do the injectors need to come out? It looks like I can do the springs by just taking the glow plug out and the rocker arms off. I’d like to not disturb the injectors if possible, they seem to be just fine.

 

Rocker arm torque spec is 20 foot pounds. Pushrods are as easy as it seems, just make sure you get them in the lifter and you're good. The thicker wall ones are for bigger hp, higher rpm motors. You'd be fine with the .083.

As for throwing a .030 shim in and going, it would work. Is it the right way to do things, no, absolutely not. Although Clay is a good guy, hes a salesman, not an engine builder. Trust me, you'd have inconsistent numbers across the board. If you are going to do it, why wouldn't you want to do it right?

Injectors dont need to come out.

 

Thanks! I’m def going to measure but it seems that 0.030” shim might be a minimum. I’ll do it right though


You think I’m a fool for not pulling the injectors and re-oringing them or let them alone if we are not having issues?

 

If you plan on changing them fairly soon I wouldn't touch them. If it's going to be a few years I probably would.

 

I'll noodle on that for a bit

 

I have the numbers in my build thread from when I did my springs last year. Most exhaust took 0.110" shims to get to the proper installed height, those were also the most severely beaten. I could spin the valve springs by hand previously they had so much recession and loss of tension. I now have that near magic low 130s worth of seat pressure on all 16 valves. My engine is beat, do not get me wrong. But that sure brought some life back into it for cheap.

Comp 910 Valve Spring Install How-To - PowerStrokeArmy Check Post 6

I did see someone makes an actual pan gasket for these, but I THINK it is for use with their pan. Moroso maybe?

 

 

Damn, lost my whole message with that picture..... of well. Anyway, rebuilt the ipr today.

I was saying that I’m planning to measure out each one, I just feel better now about what to expect. As for the oil pan, Moroso makes a gasket one but I went with OEM, it’ll last another 20.

i went and got the comp 910s, shim kit and tools. Injector orings, Smith Bro rods and hit the hpop in the mail today.

amex is going to call me soon, cards smoking!

 

Can you weld?

If so put bellows in your stock up pipes for now.

 

I bought the bellowed up pipes from Riff Raff.

 

can I borrow your spring compressor when you are done? Thinking of some 910s for mine and do that with armature shims and GPs

 

Why are you replacing injectors at 168k miles? They should not need it if the truck was maintained. For power, yes...but just because, no. There are many guys running 300k plus miles on originals.