Reseal plus upgrades
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From: Boston
Hit Man,
Where did you get them?
And now I’ll ask the dumb questions:
- how’d you know the shin size needed?
- any particular valve seat?
After watching videos this seems a lot easier now vs in the truck...... need to watch/learn more
Where did you get them?
And now I’ll ask the dumb questions:
- how’d you know the shin size needed?
- any particular valve seat?
After watching videos this seems a lot easier now vs in the truck...... need to watch/learn more
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,206
Likes: 1,340
From: Bahstun
Ebay has 910-16 for under 100 and shim kits for 30
Measure installed spring height
Add shims to adjust it
Spring compressors can be fun to choose
I like the lever kind more than a screw type depending on the compression strength
Measure installed spring height
Add shims to adjust it
Spring compressors can be fun to choose
I like the lever kind more than a screw type depending on the compression strength
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From: Boston
OK so i've got a dumb question.......looking on RR, how do I know if i need .15 or .30 shims without going through the process? Or do i need to go through the process?
Also, add the following to the list of mods:
Also, add the following to the list of mods:
- T500 hpop........I mean, its starring me right in the face and changing that in truck does not look fun
- Melling lpop
- New hpop lines
- Reseal the CCV
- And quite possibly these valve springs
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
You need to put the retainer and valve locks in, and measure between that and the seat. Whatever that is minus your installed spring height is what you need for shims. Just make sure each piston is at the top of the cylinder when you do them to be sure you dont drop a valve down. FWIW I always put new valve locks in when I change springs. 25 bucks, I've seen what happens with a broken lock/keeper.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
If you arent upgrading the turbo you should be fine without head studs. If you plan on a t4 setup with stage ones they would be highly suggested, especially if you tow heavy or plan on higher boost often. If that is the case I'd spend the money on studs and do now before I'd worry about the hpop. It's easy to do in the truck. I changed mine 5 times in the truck. Studs suck in the truck. Can be done though. Just sucks.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From: Boston
Thanks - so i'll need to measure first......not the end of the world. Do you think the upgraded HPOP is necessary? The most i see us doing with this truck is stage 1s, a tune to make them work a bit and an intercooler to manage the EGTs. Our HPOP seems to be in good shape......wouldn't mind saving the $450
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 546
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From: Boston
https://www.ebay.com/i/252837458815?chn=ps
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Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
With stage ones it will work ok if your hpop is in good shape. It will work much better with a bigger one, no matter what kind if shape it's in. Been there, done that. If you tow a lot with the ones the stock one will struggle. Again, been there.
Put it this way. Stage ones in a stock truck work f
ok. Add efuel and it's better. Add a bigger hpop and better yet. Add a turbo, better yet. You see where I'm going here.
Put it this way. Stage ones in a stock truck work f
ok. Add efuel and it's better. Add a bigger hpop and better yet. Add a turbo, better yet. You see where I'm going here.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From: Boston
For the height, is there a desired height? (feel free to throw a thread at me if there already is one). Main reason i'm asking is because I'm looking at micrometers.....ones they are suggesting are 1.4"-1.8"........is that enough?
https://puredieselpower.com/ford/swa...icrometer.html
https://puredieselpower.com/ford/swa...icrometer.html
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
I was thinking my locks came from falcon. I know I got them off of ebay. I do put in new valve seals too, that's up to you.
I set mine up at 1.78. 1.80 is adequate. I run swamps springs, at around 1.78 they are about 115 to 120lbs on the seat. With the comps I believe at 1.8 they are just shy of 100. The spring sits on the valve seal, so you need to take that into consideration. That seal measures .040 - .045 depending on the seal. My measurements were anywhere from 1.855 to 1.873 with no seal. Add .045 for the seal and its 1.810 to 1.828. I think the factory measurement is 79lbs when they are new. I'd bet they are now less than 70 by a ways.
I set mine up at 1.78. 1.80 is adequate. I run swamps springs, at around 1.78 they are about 115 to 120lbs on the seat. With the comps I believe at 1.8 they are just shy of 100. The spring sits on the valve seal, so you need to take that into consideration. That seal measures .040 - .045 depending on the seal. My measurements were anywhere from 1.855 to 1.873 with no seal. Add .045 for the seal and its 1.810 to 1.828. I think the factory measurement is 79lbs when they are new. I'd bet they are now less than 70 by a ways.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From: Boston
OK i think i'm on board now. Getting the valve seals from RR and they are .045" so i can make up for that by buying the .015 and .030" shim kits. I also see the falcon keepers on ebay.
Any harm in having the springs too tight? I'm shooting for the 1.85" as that gives me the 92lbs
http://swampsmotorsports.com/files/7.3L_Stage1.pdf
COMP Cams® - Specialty Valve Springs
These websites seem to align at the 1.85" @92lb. Would I want to go any tighter with my low end modded desire?
Seems like i'd want a micrometer that contains that range unless i want to incorporate more shims to make up the difference in a pre-measured way.
Any harm in having the springs too tight? I'm shooting for the 1.85" as that gives me the 92lbs
http://swampsmotorsports.com/files/7.3L_Stage1.pdf
COMP Cams® - Specialty Valve Springs
These websites seem to align at the 1.85" @92lb. Would I want to go any tighter with my low end modded desire?
Seems like i'd want a micrometer that contains that range unless i want to incorporate more shims to make up the difference in a pre-measured way.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
Too tight and you can run into coil bind. I'm at 1.78 and have a bigger camshaft and am still quite a ways from coil bind, you will be fine at 1.80. If you want to be 1.85 that will work, though I'd go 1.80.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
If you read the swamps directions they explain why the tighter numbers. These motors dont have much piston to valve clearance. I had to get valve reliefs in the pistons for the bigger camshaft, and it's not much bigger.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From: Boston
So with the engine being stock, and me installing the 910-16 comp cam springs, should I "expect" them to be off from the factory height? I mean i'll measure, just wondering what i could expect and why it would have changed. I'm "assuming" the new springs are the same height as stock with that statement. the 1.833 to 1.850 range seems good to me.
I picked up new springs, OEM valve seats from RR, lockers from ebay, valve train spray and the necessary removal and height measurement tools.
I picked up new springs, OEM valve seats from RR, lockers from ebay, valve train spray and the necessary removal and height measurement tools.