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Yup, got one.
Why does the bellows leak washer fluid when it goes bad, if there is no fluid in the bellows??
Cosmo.
When it gets a hole in it, chances are, it will not "push" and "pull" the exact same volume each cycle. If the hole is such that it causes the bellows to "pull" just a little more than it "pushes", you eventually end up with fluid in the bellows.
Is the pump below the level of the bag? If it is and you get a crack in the rubber it would likely siphon fluid out of the bag and leak inside the cab.
If it were to try to siphon, air would be pulled from the nozzles first.
If it were to try to siphon, air would be pulled from the nozzles first.
Wouldn't any fluid in the lines drain back to the low spot if there was crack then? I have no idea what the level of the pump was relative to the bag but certainly the pump was lower than the nozzles.
So what years/models does this foot pump come in for the Slick era? The left foot must have been busy working the washer pump, high beams and clutch!!
I'm going to go today and try to find some clear tubing of the correct two sizes and then I'll put some food coloring into the water I put in the reservoir bag and then I'll be able to watch the action happen in real time.
Foot-actuated washer
1961-1966 C-CT-F-H-HT-N-NT-T100/1100
1966/68 W-WT1000D
and others, too
If it didn't have the electric pump but did have a pump it would be the foot pump.
Electric pump was only used on some but not all of these models
Thanks for the info on availability Chad. As for the video shoot we are all waiting anxiously for you to blow up the hot water bottle whoopie cushion as per the video you shared.
Wouldn't any fluid in the lines drain back to the low spot if there was crack then? I have no idea what the level of the pump was relative to the bag but certainly the pump was lower than the nozzles.
Any fluid that drains back from the nozzles goes into the "T". It looks to me like the path of least resistance from the "T" would be into the bag, not the bellows.
Any fluid that drains back from the nozzles goes into the "T". It looks to me like the path of least resistance from the "T" would be into the bag, not the bellows.
If that was the case wouldn't it always drain back since the bag is not sealed. Also from your previous how it works..... "This vacuum raises the check ball in the "T" and "sucks" whatever medium that is in the bag up the draw straw and into the line connected to the bellows."
So without the vacuum to raise the check ball the fluid would drain to the leaking bellows.
On an unrelated side-note I did procure the two sizes of clear vinyl tubing and have cut it into lengths. The two pieces that connect under the hood from the "T" to the jets like on most of our light duty trucks are spec'ed to be 14" long. Other lengths vary depending on how heavy duty and if is has a left hand horn or grill guard. So, I went with 76" between bag and pump and 70" between bag and underhood "T".
One other thing of note. While the top of the bag does seem somewhat higher elevation than the foot pump, the tubing between them has a high point where it passes through the firewall. This *might* negate much chance of draining into a leaking pump. Also, I will not be creating a pinhole in my pump so this is going to be a bit more of a "best case scenario" test as far as equipment condition.
If that was the case wouldn't it always drain back since the bag is not sealed. Also from your previous how it works..... "This vacuum raises the check ball in the "T" and "sucks" whatever medium that is in the bag up the draw straw and into the line connected to the bellows."
So without the vacuum to raise the check ball the fluid would drain to the leaking bellows.
Yes, yes it would if the check ball has a good seal.
The system would actually be more efficient if the bellows and line were filled with liquid as you would get more of a "true" displacement by doing away with a more compressible fluid such as atmospheric air.