Can anyone tell me how to separate the front hub from the drum on a 1965 F100? I bought new drums from NAPA and they just sent the bare drums with no hub or bearings. I'm tempted to just send them back and try to find pre assembled units. Thanks
rx

 

 

1964/67 F100 2WD: Ford only sold the hub with the drum as an assembly (C6TZ-1102-B). It's obsolete, none are available NOS

You can buy new drums/studs from auto parts stores, but no one ever sold the hubs only...including the dealers.

Do what Tedster said: Using new studs, have an auto parts store machine shop press the old drums off, then press the new drums on the hubs.

 

Thanks Guys! I found a shop right here in town that can press the drums off and on. I'm getting ready to install steel brake lines and dual master cylinder from a '67. I hope I'm not goin' way wrong.
rx

 

I swapped a complete 79 F250 into my 66. Not cheap but worth it.

 

The dual master is a good idea, but why not go power while you're at it? Not much more work. I thought I would add that on my 66, the two sizes of studs listed at the parts stores were both wrong. One was the wrong diameter, one was the wrong length. Dorman 610-034 was a perfect fit, but who knows if I had the original hubs or not.

 

When you re-install the hubs to the drum, get new studs. I tried to get the old ones pounded back in such that they would grip to the hub (under the advice of my mechanic FIL) and cracked both brand new drums.

So, now I get to buy them again and try to find the right studs to mount the things together. Anyone have any ideas or specs on what I'm looking for on the stud side?

 

NPD carries them. For 65 and '66 2WD before serial number 872,001 use p/n 1107-1, beginning with 872,001 use part number 1107-3.

 

I wound up taking the hubs with drums attached down to Kelly's here in town and he pressed them apart in like a minute or so. His new press is set up to press on the center of the hub so it didn't even touch the studs- they remained solidly mounted on the hubs. The new drums (composite, made in China) just fit loose on the studs and seem like they'll require clips but in reality the lug nuts hold everything together well enough. I've run into a problem with fitment though. Even though I've beveled the crap out of both the leading and trailing edges of the new (relined) shoes the new drums are WAY too tight even with the adjuster backed all the way off. They barely go on and it is impossible to turn the mounted tire by hand. The truck rolls but the brake's dragging like nobody's business. Can Chinese tolerances be that crapified? Has anyone else ever encountered this?
rx