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007's 66 F100

 
  #1  
Old 11-06-2014, 01:44 AM
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007's 66 F100

After a few weeks of inspection and taking things apart, I decided I ought to start a thread on the actual work I'm doing on the truck.

So far all the interior is out and the instrument cluster has been rebuilt and the rest of the dash wiring figured out. Fortunately not a lot of hacking done to it - just a new steering column with turn-signal wires spliced in. Will redo them to make sure they're done right.

I bought a set of leather seats and the shoulder belt setup out of a '01 Buick Regal and have already fab'd them in (they're out at the moment as I deal with a new gas tank) and the shoulder belts will be easy in this truck. Amazingly so. I have to fab the outer corner supports yet, but have them made in my head already, and that's good as done.

After searching many threads here about brakes to get away from the single M/C, I'm agonizing a bit over what to do. I'm leaning towards heading to the PnP and scoring a set of iBeams with discs and swapping that all over. I really want better brakes. The idea of sloshing around in the bone-yard lately isn't appealing much to me.

Anyway, enough for the first (long) post. I'm really amazed at how original and rust-free this truck has turned out to be. Can't do a full restore at the moment (never really planned to), but this thing would certainly be far easier to restore than anything I've done so far.














 
  #2  
Old 11-06-2014, 10:28 AM
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Looks real good!!
 
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Old 11-06-2014, 03:26 PM
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Hello Doubleoh7,
You found a really nice truck. Could you tell us how you restored your instrument cluster? You did a really nice job. A friend gave me a cluster like yours because mine was in poor condition. I wanted to use thin wood where the black is and mine has a small crack at one of the screw holes which I can repair.

Nice job on the truck.
have a good one,
 
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Old 11-06-2014, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TBird Larry View Post
Hello Doubleoh7,
You found a really nice truck. Could you tell us how you restored your instrument cluster? You did a really nice job. A friend gave me a cluster like yours because mine was in poor condition. I wanted to use thin wood where the black is and mine has a small crack at one of the screw holes which I can repair.

Nice job on the truck.
have a good one,

I like the blacked out look. Incidentally, they do make new bezels. I'm not sure about quality and price isn't the best, but they are out there.


Instrument Cluster Bezel and Lens | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts



.
 
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Old 11-06-2014, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TA455HO View Post
I like the blacked out look. Incidentally, they do make new bezels. I'm not sure about quality and price isn't the best, but they are out there.


Instrument Cluster Bezel and Lens | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts.
Wow, new ones are pricey 150 bucks. I do like the blacked out look also it does look more modern. My thought was to use hardwood for the door panels and fashion a veneer strip along the dash face. That will cover where the PO installed a Kenwood stereo in the dash. I'm a woodworker and have lots of hardwood and tools to do it with.
 
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Old 11-06-2014, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TBird Larry View Post
Wow, new ones are pricey 150 bucks. I do like the blacked out look also it does look more modern. My thought was to use hardwood for the door panels and fashion a veneer strip along the dash face. That will cover where the PO installed a Kenwood stereo in the dash. I'm a woodworker and have lots of hardwood and tools to do it with.


I'm thinking about asking for one for Christmas. That way the wife pays for it! Lol. I like doing woodworking, too. I have a bunch of Festools. I hope you do a better job than some with the veneer. One guy came on here asking where he could get a replacement for his factory wood dash bezel. It took forever to get through that the factory never made a wood dash bezel. I don't think the fella ever really believed us. But, it looked like gag so not sure why he was so convinced it was genuine Ford. Gave me a serious chuckle.


.
 
  #7  
Old 11-06-2014, 06:00 PM
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Instrument Cluster

I priced out the new chrome bezel and lens for this, but decided I'd rather spend 20 hours working on it than to spend $150.

Really, it wasn't in that bad of shape. The bezel housing was just faded really bad and the extra (perimeter) gauge bezels were rusty.

I work at a marine meter manufacturer and we had some obsolete 2" stainless bezels and acquired a couple of them. I "pressed them into service" - literally - by using my press to reshape them to work.

I then pulled the two interior gauge bezels from the lens by carefully clipping away the melted over pins - then polished the lens with Mequires plastic polish and painted the bezels, which are plastic, with Almost Chrome paint. Then I re-installed them and using a cold-setting on my soldering station melted them back on.

Someone in my chapter of the Falcon club had supplied me with a kit of the Alsa-brand Killer Chrome spray, and first attempted to use that stuff. Personally - it's a J.O.K.E. The Almost Chrome, to me, looks way better. But, the base-cost of the Killer Chrome is a Jet black gloss paint, and that was what I sprayed on first. I really liked the contrast it offered to the lens portion and speedo - so I decided to mask off the back. OMG, what a pain it the you know what. Anyway, using green tape, cut into 1/8" strips, I managed to mask that off. It was them that I discovered the Killer Chrome is terrible and ended up finishing it off with the Almost Chrome. Real Chrome with a black background would have been sweet. But I'm cheap.

I then cleaned and repainted the day-glow orange needles and put it all back together. I was "this" close to splitting out the turn-signal wires and adding a central high-beam, but... I think I'm getting lazy in my old age. I did this to my Ranchero because I hate a right/left/always right turn signal indicator.

So that's it. A lot of pain-staking masking and parts good paint and part of the good part of the bad paint. The Jet Black from Killer Chrome, at least, was pretty nice paint.




The bezel on the right was the before. I, 1) flattened it, 2) then compressed it.





This is another dash I restored for a club member, also dividing the left/right. The 66 F100 dash uses a Falcon pod cluster.


 
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Old 11-06-2014, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TA455HO View Post
I'm thinking about asking for one for Christmas. That way the wife pays for it! Lol. I like doing woodworking, too. I have a bunch of Festools. I hope you do a better job than some with the veneer. One guy came on here asking where he could get a replacement for his factory wood dash bezel. It took forever to get through that the factory never made a wood dash bezel. I don't think the fella ever really believed us. But, it looked like gag so not sure why he was so convinced it was genuine Ford. Gave me a serious chuckle.
I had a '56 F100 Panel that I did the entire interior in wood, but doing this dash - especially the sliver of it that goes under the bottom, would be a pain.

But I'm facing similar things on this '66. The interior looks too "stock" to be custom, but I'm told Ford never did that either. The seat is stitched just like a factory seat would be, but with buttons and velour. Same as the roof and doors.

__________________________________________________ ___________________________________________

Just for grins and giggles - and because these are still floating around out there on the ol' InterWeb (though it sold a couple years ago)...

These are ads placed on-line by Kustom Klassics of my old '56 Panel being sold on YouTube:


Notice here the comment on the dash I did on this one (something I did 25 years ago)

 
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Old 11-07-2014, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DoubleOh7 View Post
I had a '56 F100 Panel that I did the entire interior in wood, but doing this dash - especially the sliver of it that goes under the bottom, would be a pain.

But I'm facing similar things on this '66. The interior looks too "stock" to be custom, but I'm told Ford never did that either. The seat is stitched just like a factory seat would be, but with buttons and velour. Same as the roof and doors.

Just for grins and giggles - and because it's still floating around out there (though it sold a couple years ago)...

My old Panel being sold on YouTube:
Watched the videos, that's what I want to do with my dash, wood along the flat part, radio delete and maybe a console in the overhead with the stereo with a couple of inside map lights. The flip up rear door is absolutely too cool!

Now I can envision what your 66 will look like. It's too cool and still old school.
 
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:26 PM
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I'm not sure what level I'll do the '66. I did my '67 similar to the way I did my '63 Ranchereo (I posted down yonder in that section). Satin Black. I have no plans to do that on the '66, mostly because the body/paint is too decent. The only rust is in the front of the bed where they'd put a 2nd gas tank in (see bed gas filler in the pic). I'll patch all that up come spring and probably have it LineX'd or something.

All who know me know I'm my own worst enemy. Too OCD. So watch and see, I guess. It's outside in the carport right now because my garage has my '65 Falcon Tudor wagon in it, which doesn't ever get wet. So I'm limited in scope (in Seattle) until it dries out some more.

Oh, by the way, doing the Panel rear-door lift was fun. I wanted it to almost look like they were still barn doors with the original handle and all. Apart from the missing hinges - it threw everyone off when I opened them. Fabricating the hinge at the roof was pretty challenging. It took me a couple hours of trial and error (including making a mock section of the top of the door instead of trying to trial and error it while lifting the entire door) to get it to all swing correctly. For what it's worth, I hit my head on that hinge climbing into the back of that thing more times than I can remember. And I never finished it the way I wanted. It was HEAVY and the gas struts wore out quickly. I planning to lighten it than I did by removing a lot of material with chassis punches. I noticed the guy I sold it to never finished it either (as seen in the video)

FWIW, I owned the panel from 1982 through 2009 and sold it because I moved to a house with no space for it. And had grown tired of the upkeep. It deserved an owner with a real garage. And my Falcon wagon was in far better shape and had to stay in the garage.
 
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DoubleOh7 View Post
wet in Seattle

Hey, you used these three words in the same paragraph. Blasphemy.


Sounds like the name of a **** flic. Lol


.
 
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Old 11-08-2014, 01:14 PM
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I installed the new bezel and lens from DC when I rewired the truck. It's a quality piece and looks great compared to some of DC's Chinese chrome crap.
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:50 AM
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Like those seats, got any pics of the brackets you made?
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:36 PM
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Seats

The gray Buick Regal seats, like many I looked at (perhaps a GM thing, not sure) have bolts in the back, but use a dual-slot finger affair in the front that hook into the floor.

So on the inboard front corners I cut the two slots for each seat in the floor using a cut-off wheel - with a stack of three cut-off wheels to give me a slot wide enough. These just happened to land where the floor has two layers and a rib underneath. Perfect location.

To install the seat you lift the rear of the seat, engage the front fingers through the floor, and then lower the back down. The inboard rear is flat on the floor and I drilled and tapped a 3/8-16 hole in the floor (again, pretty thick there, but will probably add a lock-nut under the floor).

The outboard rear and front hang out in space. So I needed a 2" stand-off and a long 3/8-16 bolts, with lock nuts that happened to line up - exactly - with where the seat belt holes were. The outboard front (seen held-up with a 2x6) still need brackets made (with slots).

I plan to use the Buick 3-point seat belts, which attach to the seats and the b-pillar. Will post pics of all this when I get there.

Currently working on brakes, with all new brake lines, brake hoses, king pins. Also doing door (window) rebuilds, and other weatherstripping bits. General multitasking.
 
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Old 11-19-2014, 01:01 PM
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3L00 rear-end

Despite my door tag (which is original) my truck has a 3.00 "L" code rear-end. I have not played much at all with 9" rear-ends so I'm not sure if this is a full locker or a clutch-based rear end. I'm sure there are experts here on this that can edjumacate me. I'd like to drain all the fluids on this since it sat for 16 years and having just installed a 9" Tracloc in my friends 69 Mustang we dumped a bottle of modifier into the case before adding gear-lube. He got it with the punkin and as such not sure where to get it. I suspect Summit? Before I spend money, thought I'd ask. Here's the tag:





Highlighted the characters in Photoshop.

Otherwise, the truck is coming together. Working on all new door parts and rebuilding the brakes - adding a dual M/C and keeping drums for now. Will upgrade to discs next year when the bone yards are not sloshy or frozen, or both. Need to bend all new brake lines - but they should adapt to discs fine since I'm adding the dual M/C now. Have a pile of new parts ready to install, just cleaning and painting all the stuff I took off and keeping. Will post pics as I install it all.
 

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