I cleaned out the IPR and put the new screen on it. Got the truck back together yesterday before work. Had to crank it a bit but it built pressure and fired up. I was able to drive it a bit and it seems to be running great. I didn't do any kind of flush to the IPR port. I wasn't sure if it was a good idea to crank the engine with the test plug installed and I knew it would be a huge mess if I cranked it with the IPR hole open. Hopefully there isn't any more junk in there that could clog up that IPR screen. Pretty much a big pain in the rear to get to. Easy enough to fix, but I don't really want to get into it again! With any luck this crank no start issue is now behind me!
Thanks for all the advise and comments!

 

Hey gang, I thought I would do a follow up on my truck project. Originally a crank no start rig, I bought it this way. So I had discovered that the IPR screen was damaged and IPR was stuck. replaced it, and then one more time I replaced screen on the new IPR because it had quit again in the yard. After that it started and ran OK but had long cranks to start. I have been puttering on this truck now and then, fixing other things. I replaced the bed, bumpers, etc. But sometimes not touching it for a week or two. Every time I wanted to start it I had to crank it about twice as long as I thought it should to start up.
Pretty sure I figured out the original cause of the original crank no start problem. The oil filter! The previous owner had some shop do an oil change along with a bunch of other work. This truck had the aftermarket tall filter cap, and the filter that was in it wasn't right for the cap, the drain back valve in the filter housing wasn't depressed when filter was installed. I think unfiltered oil had been circulating through this engine and is why the IPR screen got hit with debris. I bought a new Motorcraft filter and cap, the spring pushed new filter back up a bit if you push filter down but don't engage thread of cap to housing. Old filter did not do this. I changed the oil as well. And now the engine starts right up every time, very little cranking time, maybe 3 seconds?
I've heard the arguments about filters with these 6.0's, and kind of rolled my eyes sometimes, but I should have taken that more seriously! So as a warning for anyone on here running a 6.0 and having a shop do your oil changes, you need to insist they only put in the proper cap and filter. If not, you could end up with long cranks or crank no starts and get stuck somewhere, maybe even have some towing. All for a filter! With this type of filter system, just use the Motorcraft, it isn't any more expensive and it is a patented filter for this engine. Can't go wrong. I think even Walmart carries the filter if you already have the correct shorter filter cap.

 

Lol, you had it figured out 2-3 months ago. Seriously though, the issue is mainly when you mix and match filters and caps, but I am not all that impressed with the cheap aftermarket filter quality.

Glad it is running and starting well now. Thanks for updating.

 

Yes I had the filter in mind for sure. I bought the filter and cap some time back . I have about 5 different projects going on at once along with 7 acres of property to mow and as if I needed the slow down I didn't do anything for a month or so due to a neck problem. This truck has been on and off the back burner. Lol I suspected the oil filter could be a problem. I only just did the oil change a couple days ago and that finally confirmed my suspicion.
I suppose if you bought a filter/cap kit you'd be ok but I think as sensitive as these things are to oil issues going with the motorcraft part is the best insurance. Just my opinion if course. I'm not usually one to say you should use OEM parts but I think it's worth it with this engine. Just not worth the risk. Oil filter is easy, figuring out a no start and fixing it isn't handy. I mean could Ford have rammed the engine any tighter in there?? Dang!

 

Thanks for all the info you've provided on this thing. I really appreciate it! Every thing to double check or every possiblity, it's all great. That's why I like being a part of this site. All of us have lots of experience in different areas and it's great to be able to share back and forth to help each other out. And many of us, like myself, learn a great deal every time I get into some situation I'm not familiar with. It's awesome!

 

It can be a finicky engine for sure. I recommend OEM filters also, but we learned in the early days that some things needed to be aftermarket and some needed to be OEM. Of course there are people that will debate both sides of that (still)!!

You probably already know this, but there are a ton of helpful and knowledgeable people here. Pretty much ready to help anyone that needs help or wants to learn.

Hopefully the cap and filter is all it is now!

 

Darn it all, I got here too late. From the OP, I wanted to guess stuck IPR. Glad it's running - sounds like you got a good deal on a truck.

 

Oh, and don't forget the fuel pressure gauge! Even though the pump is new, you can still; have low pressure for a VARIETY of reasons. It might save you from replacing all those new OEM injectors.

 

This truck really did have a few issues. No HPOP pressure , and no electric fuel pump operation. The IPR was stuck due to the screen ripping allowing debris in, and that debris got in due to the incorrect filter/cap combination. Kind of a 3 part issue! I'm not really sure what happened to the fuel pump, I guess it was just bad timing on the pump going out. The PO was using the truck when it finally got to the crank no start. I think it did sit a few months before he decided to sell it, maybe it was already weak and sitting just finished it off.
It starts like a champ now, doesn't crank long at all. It is smooth and makes no odd noises. The original owner was a friend to the guy I bought the truck from. He took the truck to Ford for service. The last guy owned it for about 2 years, he took it to Jimmy Johns fix 'em up car shop, lol that shop is not a diesel shop. No idea why he went there. I assume he knew someone there and trusted them. Unfortunately for him, they are likely the cause of the IPR failure by putting mix & match oil filters/caps on the truck. He had just spent $2500 on the truck a month or so before it quit. He couldn't swing a repair that big again so he sold it to me for cost of repairs basically. The $2500 wasn't on crank no start issues. It was radiator, waterpump, brake work, glow plug harness and glow plugs, etc. All in all, I got a great deal on this truck. Along with the engine repairs that I did, I also replaced both bumpers and the bed. The guy was a tree guy. He was a little rough with things. I got a nice take off front bumper for $60 from a guy who put a winch type off roading bumper on. I got the rear bumper from ebay for $89, new with damage, but I can't find the damage. lol The bed had dents and top rail was bent out of whack. I bought a new take off bed at a county auction for $400 with tailgate. Not a mark on the bed. They bought new trucks and pulled the beds for service bodies. They had 2 - 8 foot beds that had been sitting on a trailer for a long time, basically brand new with spray in bedliner. I'm down to some interior touch ups and this thing is going to be real nice. Very happy with it! And I am not into it much money which is even sweeter!