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Twice now in the past 250 miles or so I've had an odd clunk that I can't pinpoint. Probably going to be hard since I really can't replicate it but I figured maybe one of you guys could maybe steer me in the direction to look.
First time it happened I was backing out of my parking spot at work and when I started driving forward I could hear/feel a slight thump like something was in the tire. I started accelerating and then heard/felt a noticeable clunk then everything was quite. Thought maybe I had something stuck in the tire but the speed the thump happened at first was faster than the tire could've rotated around to a spot with debris in it. And when I heard the louder clunk I still wasnt' going fast enough that something could've gotten thrown with enough force to cause the noise.
Second time was this morning. I backed the truck out of the garage to warm up and then started backing out of my driveway and heard a clunk after I got all four tires on the rock. It didnt' really sound like the typical driving on rock noises you get though.
Both times this happened the noise has come from the right side. Just wondering if maybe it could be a brake sticking or something else? Truck is a 2013 F250 4wd and the hubs were unlocked and t-case in 2wd both times.
If in fact, it is the slip joint again use the ford XG-8 PTFE Teflon grease only. Nothing else works. If you used the XG-8 its likely not the slip joint.
The slip joint symptom typically occurs when coming to a stop then again on initial startup as the slip joint articulates in/out with the suspension travel during these two stop n go events. It's generally not a continuous rotating noise like a bad U Joint or debris caught in a tire.
Does the rear axle have a limited slip or E locker? If limited slip I suspect clutch pack chatter. Do a bunch of figure 8s and see if it goes away. If its a limited slip you may need to add the limited slip clutch pack lube to the diff oil.
Look at the outer front shaft to axle tube mud seals. They can come apart and make noise until they are totally chewed up.
See the below thread in particular post #14 for more slip joint info if needed?
And this thread, in particular, the last post. The ABS needs to be disabled to see the difference if this is your problem as that's how mechanic #5 finally found it for me.
If in fact, it is the slip joint again use the ford XG-8 PTFE Teflon grease only. Nothing else works.
I'll second that. I'd been using whatever grease I had and it would start clunking again within a year. Finally bit the bullet and used the Ford XG-8 last time and it's been 2 years and counting with no clunk.
Also, are you going over a bump when it happens? Unusual clunks sometimes end up being the sway bar end links.
I'll second the sway bar links. I had a bad one on my 99 and it would clunk when I first took off or right before a complete stop. Noticed it more with a trailer hooked up,.
I did not use the special Teflon grease when doing the slip yoke before.
Axle has the e-locker
It made the clunk again this morning when backing out of the driveway. The way my driveway is laid out I have a truck length pad that is level then there is a noticeable downward slope to the street. Last two times it's clunked I've backed out of the garage to warm up and parked the truck so it was sitting at an angle pointing down hill. The clunk happened when I started backing up enough to get the truck to level out. Clunked once and never does it again no matter how much I try to induce it. Then after sitting in the garage for a couple of days it did it again this morning.
The other noise I heard was actually a rotational noise and is not related to these clunks.
I'll get some of the approved grease and redo the slip yoke. If the problem persists I'll start checking the other stuff. How do you check the sway bar for slop? I have noticed that some times when it's cold and I first drive the truck it seems like I get some mild thumps/clunks when hitting bumps in the road but it goes away fairly quick. Always thought it was the hitch bouncing around in the receiver because that is noisy also but maybe it's the sway bars.
Truck only has 65,000 easy miles so I can't believe the sway bars would be wore out already.
Got one more question. Last time the slip yoke was greased I had my mechanic do it since it was in the shop for something else so I didn't see how everything was done. I read the article on how to do the job but it doesn't state whether or not to use thread locker on the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the pinion and how much to torque them to. Anybody have this info?
Also. I know you can reuse the special clamp if you are careful but if I mess it up how well do regular zip ties hold up? I really dont' want to spend $40 for the kit if the boot isn't damaged.
Got one more question. Last time the slip yoke was greased I had my mechanic do it since it was in the shop for something else so I didn't see how everything was done. I read the article on how to do the job but it doesn't state whether or not to use thread locker on the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the pinion and how much to torque them to. Anybody have this info?
Also, I usually put a dab of medium threadlocker on the threads to minimize the chance of them moving.
Originally Posted by fordman19762003
I know you can reuse the special clamp if you are careful but if I mess it up how well do regular zip ties hold up? I really dont' want to spend $40 for the kit if the boot isn't damaged.
I have always used zip ties on that end. Been doing it that way for over 10 years and never had a problem with them coming off.
Clean threads, clean thread bores and blue removable Loctite torque to spec.
Inspect rear E brakes, in particular, the shoe retainer pins. They pull through the backing plate and grind up everything.
Look at the shock bolts. I had a loose shock and it kathunked.
Mine had 60K on it and the Ebrakes pins pulled through the backers. I caught it quick enough to band-aid it with drum brake pins, retaining springs and fender washers then regularly pack the cavity on the outside of the backing plate with grease. This will get it by until I go in to R&R the carrier bearings at 85K due to the inept stealership mechanic who replaced the pinion seal at 40K. They didnt install a new crush sleeve. Every time I let someone else touch this truck.....GAH
Clean threads, clean thread bores and blue removable Loctite torque to spec.
Inspect rear E brakes, in particular, the shoe retainer pins. They pull through the backing plate and grind up everything.
Look at the shock bolts. I had a loose shock and it kathunked.
Mine had 60K on it and the Ebrakes pins pulled through the backers. I caught it quick enough to band-aid it with drum brake pins, retaining springs and fender washers then regularly pack the cavity on the outside of the backing plate with grease. This will get it by until I go in to R&R the carrier bearings at 85K due to the inept stealership mechanic who replaced the pinion seal at 40K. They didnt install a new crush sleeve. Every time I let someone else touch this truck.....GAH
Thanks for the info .I checked the sway bars and they seemed good to me. I'm going to re lube the slip yoke this weekend and will check the other stuff at the same time.
I'm going to have to brake down and get a repair manual so I have all the info I need since I'm starting to attempt more repairs myself. My mechanic is good but I'm starting to notice that he is falling behind on the newer when it comes to diagnosing problems.
