Intermittent no start ?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 52
From: Sacramento Delta, CA
If you haven't done so yet, disconnect the SPOUT jumper and see if it starts more reliably ... for a while.
I was able to drive for months (not that I should have) with the SPOUT jumper disconnected.
Ultimately, for me, the distributor was not putting out a reliable PIP pulse.
I rebuilt my distributor and it has been bullet proof since.
I was able to drive for months (not that I should have) with the SPOUT jumper disconnected.
Ultimately, for me, the distributor was not putting out a reliable PIP pulse.
I rebuilt my distributor and it has been bullet proof since.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 22
If you haven't done so yet, disconnect the SPOUT jumper and see if it starts more reliably ... for a while.
I was able to drive for months (not that I should have) with the SPOUT jumper disconnected.
Ultimately, for me, the distributor was not putting out a reliable PIP pulse.
I rebuilt my distributor and it has been bullet proof since.
I was able to drive for months (not that I should have) with the SPOUT jumper disconnected.
Ultimately, for me, the distributor was not putting out a reliable PIP pulse.
I rebuilt my distributor and it has been bullet proof since.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 22
So far from the testing ive/had done( fuel pressure is good, spark from coil), the few items I have replaced (ECU Relay, Fuel pressure relay and fuel pressure regulator) and all the articles and forums I have read the culprit points to an overheating PIP sensor. 
If I can get the van to not start so I can test the PIP that would be great but by the time I get to that point the van starts. The one time i had tested the coil to cap, for some reason I did not check for spark from the cap to plugs
The van has been running good (other than a slight miss) does NOT stumble or stall, takes off when I give it gas and runs on the freeway fine but still has this crank no start issue after driving it for a long time, then I let it sit for a few minutes and it starts right up. So tomorrow I am going to go on a long trip to nowhere (LOL) and not turn off the engine, get home and have everthing ready for the test.
If I can get the van to not start so I can test the PIP that would be great but by the time I get to that point the van starts. The one time i had tested the coil to cap, for some reason I did not check for spark from the cap to plugs
The van has been running good (other than a slight miss) does NOT stumble or stall, takes off when I give it gas and runs on the freeway fine but still has this crank no start issue after driving it for a long time, then I let it sit for a few minutes and it starts right up. So tomorrow I am going to go on a long trip to nowhere (LOL) and not turn off the engine, get home and have everthing ready for the test.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 52
From: Sacramento Delta, CA
BTW, you cannot check the PIP signal with anything but the light that he recommends that you build in the thread below. I tried a high tech Innova LED test light which I love to use, but it wouldn't work. But the LED test light which I made following his specs pinpointed the problem to be my weak PIP signal output from the hall effect generator in the distributor:
https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/fo...t-a-no-start-1
By a process of elimination, you have likely pinpointed the problem.
Choose you distributor gear compatibility wisely so as not to ruin your cam.
https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/fo...t-a-no-start-1
By a process of elimination, you have likely pinpointed the problem.
Choose you distributor gear compatibility wisely so as not to ruin your cam.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 22
BTW, you cannot check the PIP signal with anything but the light that he recommends that you build in the thread below. I tried a high tech Innova LED test light which I love to use, but it wouldn't work. But the LED test light which I made following his specs pinpointed the problem to be my weak PIP signal output from the hall effect generator in the distributor:
https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/fo...t-a-no-start-1
By a process of elimination, you have likely pinpointed the problem.
Choose you distributor gear compatibility wisely so as not to ruin your cam.
https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/fo...t-a-no-start-1
By a process of elimination, you have likely pinpointed the problem.
Choose you distributor gear compatibility wisely so as not to ruin your cam.
LED test tool is super simple to make, just need to procure the correct LED with resistor built in.
All the distributors I find for my year (94, club wagon 5.8) have cast iron gears and the only one I can find locally is at autozone and I really dont want to buy a house brand, although it looks like it might be a spectra with autozones name on it.
Thanks Tim.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 52
From: Sacramento Delta, CA
You really need to follow his decision tree to be sure. FWIW mine started with his LED light, just like he says many do. I believe it is because when you do his test with his recommended light, you are actually supplying additional current from the battery. You should really start at the beginning with his trouble shooting tree, but check out the end of it where he discusses this phenomenom. And I would follow the paint code on the distributor.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 22
You really need to follow his decision tree to be sure. FWIW mine started with his LED light, just like he says many do. I believe it is because when you do his test with his recommended light, you are actually supplying additional current from the battery. You should really start at the beginning with his trouble shooting tree, but check out the end of it where he discusses this phenomenom. And I would follow the paint code on the distributor.
If I do switch out the distributor I will have a shop do it.
Otherwise I will do what I have been doing for a while, and just not drive very far from home until whatever the problem is becomes persistent then I can test and narrow down the faulty component.
Thanks.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 22
Well after driving around for about 4 hours looking at a few distributors and other parts, getting lunch and a little grocery shopping it started up every time, even when I got home it started right up and usually when I drive it that much, for that amount of time it won`t start when I get home. So now I am stuck as to what to do.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Nick if I'm about to re-tread already covered topics does your van just not start and run OR it won't even crank over after its been driven a while, the whole drive train warmed up to normal operating temperatures?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 22
What is does is sometimes it wont start after driving it a long distance, it does turns over, just wont start until I let it sit for a few minutes, once it took about half an hour to start, but is very intermittent like my previous post pointed out, I drove much more than usual, got home and it started right up when normally if I did that it would not start, cank but no start. I work only ten minutes from home so the crank-no start doesnt happen going to or from work or going to the store.
I have replaced the Fuel pressure Regulator, Fuel pressure relay, ECU relay and had the fuel pressure checked and all are good. ICM, coil, wires plugs are not that old although as baddad pointed out in another thread I should probably install a new cap and rotor ( the only things i neglected )
I am going to replace the cap and rotor and check/set timing and see if that makes any difference.
Thanks.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 22
Today I replaced the cap and rotor, wires and plugs were replaced not long ago.
I checked the timeing before and it was spot on, yes I removed the spout connector.
Installed new rotor and cap, a little dielectric grease on the posts, inspected old cap and rotor. Rotor had minor
carbon build up, all the brass posts (inside cap) had carbon build up on them.
Checked timing again and it was spot on. Checked and cleaned air filter, checked inside throttle body, had very
little buildup.
Took it for a test drive and felt a little more throttle response but anytime I do anything to the van I feel like it
runs better, one time I washed it and It drove like a champ.
Need to go on a long trip to see if the cap and rotor made any difference, but they needed changed out anyway.
I checked the timeing before and it was spot on, yes I removed the spout connector.
Installed new rotor and cap, a little dielectric grease on the posts, inspected old cap and rotor. Rotor had minor
carbon build up, all the brass posts (inside cap) had carbon build up on them.
Checked timing again and it was spot on. Checked and cleaned air filter, checked inside throttle body, had very
little buildup.
Took it for a test drive and felt a little more throttle response but anytime I do anything to the van I feel like it
runs better, one time I washed it and It drove like a champ.
Need to go on a long trip to see if the cap and rotor made any difference, but they needed changed out anyway.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 22
Just an Update.
Ive been driving the van all over, longer distances than normal in the summer heat and the intermittent "crank but no start when hot gremlin" has seemed to disappear.
I cannot attribute it to changing the rotor and cap last month because just before that is when I noticed the crank, no start when hot went away.
I am glad but kinda insecure now because I did not track down the reason.
Oh well.... Moving on.
Ive been driving the van all over, longer distances than normal in the summer heat and the intermittent "crank but no start when hot gremlin" has seemed to disappear.
I cannot attribute it to changing the rotor and cap last month because just before that is when I noticed the crank, no start when hot went away.
I am glad but kinda insecure now because I did not track down the reason.
Oh well.... Moving on.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 787
Likes: 22
Its been starting fine for about 4 months, in the summer heat, then all of a sudden, out of knowhere it does the Crank no start thing again............
AAARRRG....
, but it did start after rolling the van for a couple feet. This has been a theme, when It wont start I roll the van a bit then it starts.
As stated above, has started fine for about 4 months.
Only does the Crank no start when very hot or after driving a while.
Eventually does start after sitting or rolling the van forward a few feet.
It is my daily driver I drive it every day.
Questions:
This may be a longshot but could the Neutral safetly switch be affected by heat causing it to malfunction?
I dont think theres any electronics inside of it, If I remember its just has contacts inside of it ???
Also, What would allow the van to start after rolling a few feet? This has happened multiple times in the distant past.
The Distributor?
Thanks.
AAARRRG....
, but it did start after rolling the van for a couple feet. This has been a theme, when It wont start I roll the van a bit then it starts.As stated above, has started fine for about 4 months.
Only does the Crank no start when very hot or after driving a while.
Eventually does start after sitting or rolling the van forward a few feet.
It is my daily driver I drive it every day.
Questions:
This may be a longshot but could the Neutral safetly switch be affected by heat causing it to malfunction?
I dont think theres any electronics inside of it, If I remember its just has contacts inside of it ???
Also, What would allow the van to start after rolling a few feet? This has happened multiple times in the distant past.
The Distributor?
Thanks.
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