Same here---I need/want to do a cylinder compression test on my reman'd 5.4 motor but tough to do in the winter.

This is the fuel pressure test kit I bought: but there's also this version: The first one has fittings to cover a lot of circumstances, the second may not have the proper Ford fitting but that's easily solved---contact OTC for their recommendations. IF you're only testing one vehicle it might make economical sense to have your shop do it---you'd not be investing in a tool used only once or a very few times.

When my fuel pump crapped out I was in a bit of a hurry to replace it, new from Ford was just over $430 even with my pissy discount. After the fact I did a bit of searching online and could find the same Motorcraft part for just about $100 less, same pump, same Ford 2 year warranty. I don't mind spending money for OEM stuff but like it even better if I can save that much!

BTW if the fuel pump is replaced do your shop a favor and have a set of tank straps available should one of the existing ones break during removal---this is VERY common. They're about $52 each from the dealer, maybe $40 aftermarket from NAPA etc. Just advice that might save you some trouble down the road.

Anyway best of luck with this NICKSAN!

 

Thanks for the tips and advice JWA and everyone, I will post what the problem was and the outcome.

 

I replaced my FPR last spring to resolve a hard start problem. You can do it from the cab with the dog house off in 20 minutes or less. 2 small bolts and a rubber vacuum line is all that's involved.

 

This weekend I plan on pulling the cover, doghouse, whatever and pulling the vacumm tube off the FPR and I am hoping that I will get some fuel out of the tube to confirm it is a faulty FPR
Or............ I may just go ahead and replace it anyway and see.......... If no fuel comes out I guess it could be just a weak diaphragm also ??????????

Thanks everyone for the suggestions ................

 

Well I just replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator and that does not seem to be the problem

It did the exact same thing when I tried to start it after replacing the FPR, maybe I didnt allow pressure to build

but did start after I let it sit for a few minutes. I guess I will keep driving it and see what happens.

It does not stumble or idle very rough and it drives fine on the freeway so I am second guessing weather it is a

fuel issue but like I posted before when it doesnt start it does glug, glug thing like it is trying to get fuel or

air. I changed out the air filter a while ago but cant imagine thats the problem. I am going to check it anyway.

I guess I should go buy a Fuel pressure gauge and see what I get I dont want it to be the pump but nothing lasts forever............

 

I plan on having the fuel pressure checked, but would a sticking fuel pump relay cause an intermittent start?

 

Yes but that's easily checked by swapping the fuel pump relay with the horn relay when you're in the no-start mode and see if that's the correction needed. If not then we're right back to fuel pressure.

Without offense you're spending a lot of unnecessary and brain cells trying to fix this without first knowing what the fuel pressure is.

 

Yes, I am just trying to think about what else it might be, so if the pressure is within spec I can go ahead

troubleshooting whatever else it might be.

Plan on checking the pressure next week sometime

No offense taken.

Thanks for the help.

 

I am not saying it is the fuel pump, nor am I advocating that you swap it out yet... What I am saying is it isn't as big a job as you fear. I've done several of them on multiple vehicles, and my 96 E-350 was actually the easiest one I've done. If you do end up having to do it, don't worry about the effort too much.

 

The problem is I have nowhere to do it. I would prefer to do it my self. I had a great place a few years ago to work on vehicles but had to move .

Thanks.

 

So, Its been starting fine for a while except today. I was running some errands and went to start it and it did not

start, kept cranking, played with the battery wires and shifter, no luck.

While waiting for AAA I kept trying it off and on for about 40 minutes, Turns over fine with lots of power.

AAA shows up and I asked the tow guy If he wants me to put it in neutral and push it away from the curb to give

him more room. I push it about a foot and just for the heck of it I turned the key and it started right up

Drove home with no problems and it started up after I got home.

This exact same thing happend to me about 8 years ago, Back then the tow driver was helping me push the van, we

only pushed it about 2 feet and I turned the key and it started.

When it is running it does not stumble, or hesitate and idles fine. On the freeway it runs fine, Drove it on the

freeway this morning about 3 miles with no problems.

I have an appointment on monday to have the fuel pressure checked.
I am wondering if this could have something to do with the distributor?
I know I keep speculating

 

Try starting it multiple times when it's in neutral instead of PARK...

 

I did that while waiting for the tow, But no luck. I have already purchased a new NSS, I may just install it anyway.

Doesnt seem like that is the problem. It seems more like a no start when hot issue or when I drive it alot.

I drove it around town today and it started up evertime, but today has been cold.

I am taking it to my mechanic tomorrow and I am hoping it wont start back up when I get there, LOL.

just so he can see how it is behaving.
Thanks.

 

Fuel pressure is good, I was kinda hoping it would not be.

My mechanic pulled the fuel pump and pcm relays and checked those and they are good. He checked a few

other things but told me he would need to keep the van for a day to really check things out and he thinks it is an

electrical issue. He told me to replace both relays and see if that cures the intermittent start, since they are both

original relays. I still think it has something to do with heat, because the intermittent start only does it after I have drove it a long time, but it will start sometimes......

I am thinking maybe I should go ahead and install the NSS anyway since Ive got it and see if that solves the issue.

 

You need to be clear whether you have a STARTING problem or a CRANKING problem . You have described a STARTING problem , with ZERO symptoms of a CRANKING problem.

Since you have a STARTING problem, and NOT a CRANKING problem, troubleshooting the CRANKING circuits is a waste of time and brain power. Direct your energies to things that will prevent the engine from STARTING, instead of fooling around with things that only affect CRANKING.

Next time it won't START, you need to try to determine if you lack FUEL or SPARK. Since it runs fine once it's started, we can rule out compression, so It's lack of spark or lack of fuel.

That will tell you which direction to go.