Looks good Brian. Can you please post a link to the bumper?

 

Whatcha mean? That's a stock bumper. Got it for 100 bucks after the fire department took it off their brush truck.

 

Gotcha. Thanks.

 

quoting this post as I did not want to repost your photos.... the enclosed fuse link really stinks. I wound up not using the enclosed one. I put a fuse jumper to an in-line fuse which I zip tied next to the fuse box....

 

Yeah, I need to find one of those fuse jumpers I suppose. Did you still jumper it off #35?

 

Yes. The issue I has was that the included fuse tap sits on a right angle with two 10 amp fuses. However it does not seat fully in the fuse box and kept wiggling itself loose and my DRL's wound shut off. My buddy used a straight fuse tap and drilled a small hole (sealed with a rubber grommet in the side of the box and connected that to #35. then he spliced in an inline 20 amp fuse. So far zero issues. I am camping this weekend and people love these lights. Much better output and really enhances the look of the truck. In my opinion, LED lights should be an option on all trim packages.

~S

 

I'm lookin all over amazon and the rest of the web, and I'm not seeing any straight fuse taps here... any idea where he go that from? I'm about ready to employ my 3D printer lol

 

He owns a high end audio shop and basically made one for me.

~S

 

Roger, sounds like that's what I'm gonna be doing. I did FINALLY find on on amazon though, but I'm too impatient.

 

My lights finally arrived and I installed them on Saturday. Overall I think they look nice, but I did notice some of the same issues others have experienced. One of the tabs on mine wasn't seated in the slot when sealed, and I do notice significantly more shake from the passenger side when closing the door. I verified this by closing doors on both sides of the truck while viewing the beam on my garage wall. While the driver side appeared to shift with the truck itself, the passenger side shifted more so every time when doors closed from both sides of the truck. I haven't had the chance to drive the truck much at night to see if the shake is noticeable when driving.

One other thing I noticed is some small white contaminant inside my passenger light. Looks to be small remnants of protective film or something. Not a big deal and certainly didn't keep me from installing them, however something to mention as overall I also have the impression these things look great and are a worthwhile modification, however they're not OE build quality.

The fuse actually fit fairly well on my truck. I could fully seat it without any bending, but just put a very slight bend on the blades to allow a bit more clearance. I'm not sure how exactly all of you routed the wires, but below are pics of how I did it. I ran it under the plastic shroud, zip-tied the bundle under the front passenger hood bump bracket that's accessible without removing anything, ran it behind another fender bracket closer to the fuse box, and cut just a small slot in the fuse box lid for the wire to enter. Seems to be a reasonably safe route, without any sharp edges to worry about, and leaves the wires accessible but reasonably protected.

And to my surprise it actually wasn't too bad getting to the lower side mounting bolt on either side. The gaps on my truck allowed both a 0 and 15 deg offset ratchet wrench to be used without any loosening of the bumper.

 

I finally got mine installed and yes, mine have the shakes too. My lights were aimed pretty much in line with my old halogen housings / LED bulbs so I haven’t done any adjustments yet. After an email, a rep from TRS guaranteed me that one to two full turns clockwise on the adjustment screws will tighten them up and they won’t vibrate anymore. I’ll report back when I do this next week.

 

They look amazing. Very disappointing about 'the shakes'. Please do let us know if adjusting makes any difference?

 

The question is, why did they come this way and after turning the adjustment screws the suggested amount, will the lights in that housing still be in alignment or severely out of alignment.

I’m sure the owners of these lights would like to know.

 

I had the same question that you did. The rep from TRS told me that I will still be able to aim my lights properly. He said that it's hard to explain but the horizontal adjustment will also affect the vertical adjustments as well and vice versa. I will report back as soon as I make the adjustments. The light output is amazing and they have a great cutoff. Once adjusted properly I believe you'll have great output without blinding oncoming traffic.

 

Thanks for the extra info. I'd also be interested in your thoughts on how just making the adjustments goes. Sound like a serious PITA, to be honest (do you really have to completely remove the housing to make an adjustment, put it back in, check placement, rinse and repeat until you finally get it perfect??). In all fairness, I've not adjusted lights on any newer Super Duty and maybe it's just as difficult with the OEM's.