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I am in need of new locking hubs for my 2000 F350. Simply will not turn!
I am seeing an assembly kit with all the springs, rings and such along with the hub. Then i see the hub, looks like it is already put together. The kit is more expensive than the hub.
Is there any reason not to go with just the hub? Yes i know one is a set of two, but two hubs are still cheaper than the set.
Pretty sure the hubs will outlast my truck. I just really need to know if the single hub is all I need. Are those washers and rings already inside? Or do I need to get the hub and all those other parts?
Just get Warn Premium....never have to worry ever again. They are manual operated though.
I'll respectfully disagree, and that's after happily putting Warrn hubs on my rigs for the past 20 years.
For this axle, go with the G2 hubs. better design and it's all steel inside. no brass plated pot metal, no aluminum.
Pretty sure the hubs will outlast my truck. I just really need to know if the single hub is all I need. Are those washers and rings already inside? Or do I need to get the hub and all those other parts?
I need to know if I need to get all the extras or are they inside the single hub. I do not care what brand they are I just need them to work!
I need to know if I need to get all the extras or are they inside the single hub. I do not care what brand they are I just need them to work!
if you have the factory ESOF hubs (switch on the dash) you will either need one factory hub or to repair the existing factory hub or replace both with manual locking hubs either factory or aftermarket.
nope they are manual. I find two options, one that looks like it is simply a replace the whole hub and the other looks as if it needs to be put together first. Are they the same thing? Is the one in my second picture the same thing as the first picture just preassembled?
They both look like complete sets/units. The pieces picture are for the "hardcore" locking set (I'm assuming this is Rock Auto we're talking about) which looks like some kind of attempt at a beefier locking hub. If you want to go that route you might as well look at some name brands and get your money's worth.
The whole hub should be a complete assembly. You can call and ask but I'm confident it's a ready-to-use item and even comes with a new lock ring to hold it in place. They have LOCK and AUTO positions but will work fine on your manual setup just as well. Just remember that AUTO is the same as the FREE/UNLOCK position.
If you are just looking to buy something that works then IMO you should go the assembled route (~$100/hub), slap it in, and have fun.
I had a frozen hub when I first bought my truck (and the other was very tough to turn) and following the instructions in the link above I was able to clean them up and get them working again. Did this once a year (I off-road a lot) and never had a problem with them after that.
Factory ford manual hub is CRAZY EXPENSIVE the auto hub from ford is half the price for some reason.
Then you have aftermarket hubs...dorman I'm not sure about and the other Chinese knockoffs I'd steer clear of for sure.
Next you have warn, G2, Yukon and mile marker. I had mile marker and yes the all stai kess is ice in the rust belt the oring that seals the dial to the u it bearing constantly let water in so I went to the warn premium. I've never had a problem with water intrusion BUT my stub shaft on both sides rattles with the warns because the warn splines are not tight on the stub splines. Warn allows for clearance than the factory or mile marker I had. Now G2 and Yukon I cant say on water intrusion or sloppiness but hopefully someone will chime in with that expirence but I really dont want to drop 600 dollars on factory ford manual hubs if I dont have too
Exactly why I haven't done it! It's cheaper to buy the esof hubs from ford or a non ford distributor than it is to buy the manual ones....I dont know why becase the auto hubs have a ton more parts to make them work compared to a dial,spring, and plunger inside the manual hub
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