So I was just wondering, what causes manual locking hubs to pretty much explode? I just replaced the front hubs on my truck a few weeks ago. The side that was bad was my front left, I had just gotten the truck on the road only to find out that 4x4 wasn't working cause PO had blown that hub apart somehow.

Anyways, these past few weeks have been great, no problems once the hub was replaced, 4x4 worked very well, then yesterday, driving home after I was in the woods, heard a pop and then the truck pulled to the left a bit. I Know I unlocked the hubs before we got out of the woods. Got the truck home and put it on stands, sure enough, the front left is stuck on. Took off the hub, found the C-clip popped off and the hub was pressing against the lock ring which I could not remove. I couldn't move the hub back in at all!

After some prying, the hub fell out in pieces, looking very similar to how the last one did. Was just wondering what can cause them to go bad so fast like that? Could something being loose in the front end do that? How about the tires hitting the radius arms when you turn like you can see in the last pic?

Keyul

Whats left of the hub:


Anything look wrong in here to you?:


Overall view:

 

It looks like where the hub goes is out of round. I'm not sure if this would cause that but it might be a starting point.

 

The bearing in the back of the spindle that centers the axle is likley shot.

 

Is it a bitch/expensive to replace? I did notice that when I had the hub off, the axle shaft was able to move up/down, side to side a bit.

 

yeap what he said would be the first thing to check at least. I not long blew a manual hub up in similar fashion & it turned out the needle roller in that side spindle had collapsed. Plus I was towing 30 odd tonne at the time. Actually it was closer to 40 but anyway.

 

If you have the proper tools to remove the spindle nuts and other internal parts that hold on the hub/rotor assembly, Then it goes pretty easy.
I had to replace both of the spindle bearings on my 96 4X4 and had them both done in a couple hours.

 

I think that by the time i replace the radius arm bushings on this truck, get new u joints, get whatever made the hub blew fixed, get a new hub, and get the front end aligne, it will be way too much money. I am going to pick up a solid 44 front this weekends for 100 bucks, frame mounts and radius arms included!

 

I'd love to find a solid front dana 44 for my 96 and get rid of this TTB front end. It certainly would make installing a 4" lift much simpler.

 

Make sure you go through those same bearings in the solid axle, you will have the same issue if you don't.

 

Well, I went and looked at the dana 44 and decided not to take it. I was wondering, what is this bearing called?

 

You're going to want to pick up a spindle bearing and seal kit for both sides, Timken part number SBK1, should be around the $11 mark, and includes the bearing and the seal that goes between the stub shaft and the back of the spindle.

 

Thanks for your help, I ordered two kits and hey should be here this evening. Also picked up a radius arm bushing set and some U joints.

 

Just also was wondering if anyone knew the part # for the wheel bearing adjusting nut? I went to the parts store but the only thing they had was the socket for the 4wd hub nut.

 

difrent name, same soket it looks like this. put a hose clamp arpund the end to make it easyer to use lie the more exspensive one Tom's Bronco Parts - Dana 30/44 Front End Bearing Spindle Nut Socket, 66-77 Early Ford Bronco, New
SPINDLE NUT SOCKET - DANA 44/30 4 PRONG, T72044

 

Be sure to inspect and repack your wheel bearings while you have it apart. Biggest thing that kills hubs is shock loads with larger tires (traction+torque=find weakest link). I've had nothing but aggrivation with the TTB 44. The TTB 50 held up well enough in a couple trucks but whenever they wear out I replace with a 60. Not worth putting much money into a TTB 44 if you go off road at all.