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I joined the 2000s and bought a 2003 Expedition xlt.
For now I just have one question.
The service engine soon light came on today. The owner's manual says it could be fuel related like cheap gas, water in the gas, or gas cap not tight.
Now this makes since to me I guess, because I filled the tank with 87 octane gas last week and it had less than a quarter tank when I filled it up. I haven't driven it til today.
I'm guessing driving it today gave it time to run out the old fuel and now the new fuel is going thru the lines. So now the light is on. Is this a possibility? What's the likelihood of this being the cause of the light?
Or do I need to go to the parts store and have them hook up their tester/computer and tell me what's going on?
Thanks in advance.
I joined the 2000s and bought a 2003 Expedition xlt.
For now I just have one question.
The service engine soon light came on today. The owner's manual says it could be fuel related like cheap gas, water in the gas, or gas cap not tight.
Now this makes since to me I guess, because I filled the tank with 87 octane gas last week and it had less than a quarter tank when I filled it up. I haven't driven it til today.
I'm guessing driving it today gave it time to run out the old fuel and now the new fuel is going thru the lines. So now the light is on. Is this a possibility? What's the likelihood of this being the cause of the light?
Or do I need to go to the parts store and have them hook up their tester/computer and tell me what's going on?
Thanks in advance.
is it possible that your check engine light is on because you put bad gas in it – sure it’s “possible”, but I think it’s most unlikely. The check engine light is just that – a light that is telling you to check the engine. Don’t read into it anymore than that until you find the reason the light came on. Your truck will have a code for that light that will give indication on what is malfunctioning or what engine parameters are not within specs. You can do this buy having a shop/auto parts store/neighbor or whoever else you know that has a simple obd2 diagnostic scanner (you can even buy one on amazon for like $20 and do it yourself).
Once you retrieve the code or codes – begin a simple google search and then come here and search as well. Post up the code and how your vehicle running so others might be able to lend you their opinion. You never know, it might be something simple like a gas cap that isn’t sealing well or seated properly, or you could have a serious issue especially if you just purchased this vehicle and have no idea of what the previous owner may or may not have been hiding. It’s not uncommon for people selling vehicles with known problems to clear out all the codes and turn off the check engine light. This may be why the previous owner sold the vehicle. Go get that code!
The "Check Engine" name for the light is probably mis-used, the problem is almost never the engine but rather an emission control issue, especially if there is no apparent change in engine operation.
Getting the code(read) is ALWAYS the first step in figuring out what the computer is squawking about, even when engine operation is noticeably impacted.
Since this happened after getting fuel, first check to make sure you put the gas cap back on correctly and it's tightened at least 3 clicks. Getting the codes read is a good idea since it would help to eliminate some of the guesswork.
The "Check Engine" name for the light is probably mis-used, the problem is almost never the engine but rather an emission control issue, especially if there is no apparent change in engine operation.
Getting the code(read) is ALWAYS the first step in figuring out what the computer is squawking about, even when engine operation is noticeably impacted.
I don't like calling it an CEL - Check Engine Light. As you said, it covers a lot more than just the engine. I rather like the alternate name for it, MIL - Malfunction Indication Light. This is a more correct way to describe the light, it indicates that a malfunction has occurred.
Well guys I went to Oreillys today and they checked it for me. He said it has a lean code on bank 2. So maybe a broken vacuum line. Or something else making it run lean on that side. Whenever I get time I'll dig into it and hopefully find it.
He said it wasn't too much to worry about, but obviously I need to fix the problem.
He was wrong. The presence of "lean" codes indicates that the bank is over-fueled. This usually leads to catalyst damage if left uncorrected for very long.
When getting a single bank "lean" code, it is also necessary to check the fuel trims for BOTH banks. It's not at all uncommon for one bank to code out while the other is just barely under the threshold of setting a code. Failure to fully observe the behavior of what the computer is seeing is usually the path to misdiagnosis and frustration and unnecessary expense.
Well I took it to my mechanic today and he found the intake manifold is the culprit. It may just be a gasket, or I guess it's a very common thing that the intake manifold is cracked.
I guess it's so common that the parts stores keep it in stock. If it wasn't so common, it would be a dealer only item.
So far and it's till not a guarrantee, but mines not leaking coolant, that's a positive, but until they tear into it. we won't know if it's a 400.00 fix or a 900.00 fix.
The intake manifold usually cracks at the coolant crossover. The newer engines, 3V from 05 and up, used a separate crossover and manifold to avoid that problem. The plastic gets brittle and cracks where the aluminum joins with the plastic, causing vacuum leak and coolant leak.
Well it goes in on the 15th.
I wonder now is the new manifold a new design, or is it the old design still and going to be a problem again in another 10 + years or sooner?
I took it camping this weekend just over a 2 hour drive each way, the temp guage stayed around the half way mark both ways. I did top off the coolant before I left home and again when I left camp. It didn't take very much to bring it to the cold level mark each time, so if there is a leak, it's very slight.
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