2000 Ranger will not start
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Western, MD
Ok I spliced/shrink wrapped and crimped a new ring fitiing on and the Ranger is running once again and the battery is charging VDC is 14.75. All looks good so far. Once again thanks for the support.Hope I don't come back in a couple days with something else.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Western, MD
Pawpaw - I'm not gone yet but believe I'm getting closer to the finish line. Last night I drove around for a good hour or so and the battery indicator started to flash intermittently. Looks like after all of the repairs I have one more thing to replace and I think it is the voltage regulator? Does that sound accurate? After all of the stress the voltage regulator went through I'm not surprised? Unless there is anything else I'm going to my friends at the parts store to pick up a voltage regulator? I can call the people at the parts store my friends because I know them on a first name basis !
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
Something to consider:
I had a similar problem pop up one time on my Ranger (battery indicator light flashing intermittently, charging issues), and after chasing after ghosts for several days I finally determined that the White/Black Stripe wire was loose on the terminal (this is the wire that branches off from the alternator harness and plugs in all by itself). I actually had to splice in a new wire w/pigtail in order to get a proper (snug) fit. Problem fixed.
I had a similar problem pop up one time on my Ranger (battery indicator light flashing intermittently, charging issues), and after chasing after ghosts for several days I finally determined that the White/Black Stripe wire was loose on the terminal (this is the wire that branches off from the alternator harness and plugs in all by itself). I actually had to splice in a new wire w/pigtail in order to get a proper (snug) fit. Problem fixed.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
^+1 on Rockledge's idea. I'd also put the recently replaced crimped connector to the alternator on the suspect list too. Give everything a Thump/Wiggle test to see if you can induce the problem.
You didn't mention earlier, but if you have the ELM scan tool & are running FORScan on the viewing device of your choice, have it scan for trouble code clues & post up All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
Most auto parts stores can/will bench load test the alternator at no cost if need be. If you come to have to replace it, have them bench test the new alternator before leaving the store with it.
Use the Advance Auto 25% off anything coupon I posted earlier to save some of your gold!!!!
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
You didn't mention earlier, but if you have the ELM scan tool & are running FORScan on the viewing device of your choice, have it scan for trouble code clues & post up All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
Most auto parts stores can/will bench load test the alternator at no cost if need be. If you come to have to replace it, have them bench test the new alternator before leaving the store with it.
Use the Advance Auto 25% off anything coupon I posted earlier to save some of your gold!!!!
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Western, MD
If the battery light is flickering intermittently and it truly was a charging issue would the voltage measured across the battery terminals drop? What is the purpose of that connector is it just for the battery indication? I think Rockledge has a good point. I suspected something with the single wire connector, it just didn't feel like it snapped in correctly.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Is the dash volt meter flickering too? If you measure the alternator output with your Analog meter, is it flickering? If not, suspect the dash indicator lamp, its filament, lamp connection to the circuit board, its wiring from the alternator lamp circuit electrical connector, or a internal alternator electrical problem. Again, give the suspects a thump/wiggle test to see if you can make the problem stop, or come about.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Western, MD
The dash voltmeter does not move it is rock solid I also had the analog volt meter attached across the battery terminals and it started at 14.6 and seems to be steady at 14.4 and during this whole time the battery light did not come on. I got a stick and fiddled with the single wire connector and then went around to the dash and the battery light is on. Cant be sure that me fiddled with the connector did it but the battery light was on. I turned off and disconnected the connector and cleaned and re-attached and started back up and no battery light. VDC across battery read 14.4 running as I write.
Pawpaw I do not have ELM scan tool all I have is an OBDII scan tool. I am going back to check the status and get back and report.
Pawpaw I do not have ELM scan tool all I have is an OBDII scan tool. I am going back to check the status and get back and report.
New User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 6
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Ford Ranger 2003,,,no start no crank issue. Checked all the basic electrical parts (battery, fuses and relay). At this time, the PATS was not activated. I was able to eliminate that the starter was NOT the issue since I placed a jumper wire between terminal 30 & 87 of the starter relay box. It started right up. I called my friend to assist in checking the ignition switch. For some unprecedented phenomena, he broke the ignition switch. Bought new one and installed. Here's where things got a bit complicated....The anti theft light is ON and flashing rapidly when starting, by the way, still no start and no crank. So lost right now on what to do. Can you help?
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