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Ok, good trouble shooting idea to have revisited the start in "N", as that can often point us in the right direction on trouble shooting a no crank problem as Rockledge suggested. You didn't say but you did have them bench test the new starter before leaving the store & if so, you knew the new starter was ok, so was that the trigger that caused you to retry the start in "N"???
Yes the starter was checked SAT before I left the parts store. The reason I revisited starting in neutral was that I really wanted to exhaust everything before removing the starter. The first time was frustrating enough and didn't want to do it again unless I tried everything.
Ok, so Murphy's Law was messing with you & you had Two problems, a bad starter motor & corrupt tranny linkage to the TRS. Good trouble shooting finds & feedback, bet this trouble shooting scenario will help someone else in the future.
Now you have a spare start relay, so keep the old one in the glove box, so Murphy can't mess with you on that part, as it'll likely happen when your out in the wilds somewhere!!!!
If only everything man made worked as well as Murphy's Law, wouldn't that be sweet!!!!
Something else to keep in mind, kind of related to your problem, which I believe is worth mentioning here: Over the years, some Ford owners have experienced "gearshift selector" issues which can also cause starting problems in a similar manner:
Well I'm getting tired of saying everything is fixed to just turn around and find something else. I was at the store this morning went to leave for home and smelled a hint of burnt electronics and immediately started to watch the voltmeter (normally sits a little more than 50%)and it was a little less than 50 % and then it went down to 25%. I made it home and left it running and got my multimeter and measured the VDC across the battery and it was confirmed it was 11.75 VDC. Looks like Ill be repalcing the alternator unless there are any other thoughts. All don't take this personal but I don't want to post all the time.
Ok good feedback, so it seems the battery is ok, no shorted cell or other malady that would load down the alternator, which now seems to belong high up on your suspect list. SO, it seems like time to remove it for a under load bench test. Those auto parts store folks are gona like dealing with you keeping repair parts sales up!!!! Go here to look up a nice promo discount code, like the Advance 25% off anything here. https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com Order on line with the code, pick up in the store without shipping charges, works for me. Be sure to have them bench test the replacement alternator before leaving the store with it. Let us know how it goes.
Another thought I forgot to include on the alternator trouble shoot, seeing as how you smelled something hot, also check the serp drive belt & its tensioner to make sure the tensioner is within its molded in tension range marks & that the belt is in good condition, no chunks missing, or no fluids on it that could be causing it to slip, get hot & smell. Keep us posted on your findings.
I think I found the cause. I just removed the alternator for the bench test and I only had to disconnect 2 wires, thats right I said 2 wire because the red wire was corroded to the point of not connected anymore. See attached pictures - is this wire go directly to the battery or does it go multiple places and can I get one of these cables? Let me know your thoughts? The alternator I pulled from the Ranger was bench tested and it was tested SAT, so I did not get another alternator. Trying to figure out the specifications on the cable.. See the middle of the pic that is the bitter end of the wire
Look up the alternator lead color code in the link I posted. EDIT: I see Rockledge put up the Alternator pictorial in his post above, so its quicker/easier to use, They don't show a red lead from the battery to the alternator, it shows a black/orange from the alternator to the battery junction box mega fuse connection & a red lead from the battery B+ post to the battery junction box. Kinda sounds like someone has rerouted some wiring or maybe bypassed the mega fuse because they blew it & didn't want to buy another???
Looking at the pictures I took I can't really tell what color wire and obviously it was burnt pretty good. The mega fuse is not blown. I feel pretty confident that the wire coming from the alternator side of the mega fuse goes to the alternator. That being said I will try to confirm today (not suppose to rain today). If I confirm that the Orange/Black line is in fact going from the mega fuse to the alternator I will remove and find one and reinstall. If I purchase a new cable what do I call it?
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