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Old Apr 11, 2023 | 05:29 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by 52 USCG Panel
Hi Hooler. Thanks for staying on the case. I started out going to town to get a decent test light. On the way, my beater 2004 Jeep broke down (literally) and ended needing to be towed. Amazingly the frame cracked. Imagine that. Here's a pic:




The crack is just in front of the rear axle. Fortunately I wasn't going very fast when the problem became noticeable. No one was hurt and the vehicle is off the road.

With that situation sort of temporarily handled, I did manage to pick up a decent test light only to discover that my battery is pretty much dead from sitting all winter. The bright green indicator light (that doesn't turn off when it should) works, but that's about all. There isn't enough juice for the engine to turn over, or the turn signals to blink. I'm charging up my spare battery now.

I'll have to look into swapping around the contacts in the flasher plug. I have no memory of putting those contacts into the plug. Maybe my friend did that for me.

Thanks again for your help.

Jim
No problem Jim!

I am very sorry about your Jeep. I am also glad you and everybody else are fine. What's a guy do about that? Get someone to weld it back together with some type of flat plate for re-enforcement?

About the flasher. I forgot you were dealing with a connector under it. For some reason I thought you just had quick connectors on it. I would wire it as planned and see what happens. I could be wrong but I think that is all you need to do to get it to work correctly with your indicator light.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2023 | 08:09 PM
  #137  
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Thanks Hooler. There's a "Guy" that is said to to be able to fix frames that lesser men give up on, and I guess I'm going to listen to what he has to say about mine. I suspect though I'm going to be in the market for another WJ Jeep. I should be able to get something decent for about $5K.

With my spare battery charged up, and my handy new test light, I was able to get a few things sorted out. I can now say with certainty that the brown wire is connected to the (X) pole of the flasher and the yellow wire is connected to the (L) pole. Unfortunately I haven't found a wire that blinks the indicator light with the turn signal switches but doesn't light up with the ignition key. I'll keep looking.

Jim
 
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Old Apr 11, 2023 | 09:33 PM
  #138  
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So then Jim if the Brown wire runs to the fuse and ignition switch, and is connected to the X terminal, and the yellow runs to the turn signal lamp contacts
on your relays and it is connected to L, then it sounds like the flasher is connected correctly as far as power and load goes. So using your test light, and the turn signal ON and flashing (doesn't matter which way) do see anything on the P terminal now?
Sorry for all the questions, just want to see if we can get this going.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2023 | 10:12 PM
  #139  
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Right now the (P) terminal isn't connected to the indicator light. My little portable light ran out of juice when I was looking for a wire that wasn't hot with the key turned on, and I wasn't able to investigate all the possibilities I was intending to. With my new tester, it will be easy to check the headlight wire harness for a wire(s) that will provide the right signal for the indicator light. I'll also try reconnecting the (P) terminal again tomorrow.

Jim
 
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Old Apr 12, 2023 | 03:30 PM
  #140  
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I spent the morning dealing with some other stuff, but had a little time this afternoon to do more hunting for the right wire(s) to power my indicator light. I started by tracing the right and left side wires that power the front turn signal lights back through the fire wall to the jumbled up mess under the dash. My test light tells me these two wires "blink" with the turn signal switch but don't light up when the ignition switch is turned on. I'm hoping that using these two wires to power up the indicator light will solve the problem we have been working on. Now I just need to summon up the courage to do some untangling under the dash and cut into the wiring.

Here's the jumbled mess:




Not pretty but at least it works--hopefully it will continue to do so after I get finished cutting and splicing.

Jim
 
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Old Apr 12, 2023 | 04:28 PM
  #141  
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That mess of wires doesn't look too bad . I would zip tie them together and hang them up under the dash and out of sight.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2023 | 05:01 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by 52 USCG Panel
I spent the morning dealing with some other stuff, but had a little time this afternoon to do more hunting for the right wire(s) to power my indicator light. I started by tracing the right and left side wires that power the front turn signal lights back through the fire wall to the jumbled up mess under the dash. My test light tells me these two wires "blink" with the turn signal switch but don't light up when the ignition switch is turned on. I'm hoping that using these two wires to power up the indicator light will solve the problem we have been working on. Now I just need to summon up the courage to do some untangling under the dash and cut into the wiring.

Here's the jumbled mess:




Not pretty but at least it works--hopefully it will continue to do so after I get finished cutting and splicing.

Jim
Hey Jim!
We're you able to take the test light and probe that "P" terminal of the flasher to see if it would blink with your test light. And be not be lit when the blinkers are off? I know you have that connector on the bottom of the flasher but you maybe able to pull it out just a little to get contact with a test light.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2023 | 05:39 PM
  #143  
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Success! The 2 wires traced back into the "mess" were winners. The stressful cutting and splicing are done and everything works.

Here's another look at the junction blocks and relay system Zac designed for me to get a 5 wire turn signal switch to behave like a 7 wire switch:





Now an indicator light is successfully integrated into the system. Thanks everyone for your interest and help.

Jim
 
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Old Apr 12, 2023 | 06:02 PM
  #144  
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Great to hear Jim! 👍 Nothing better than getting something to work the way you want it to!
 
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Old Apr 12, 2023 | 09:46 PM
  #145  
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Of course there had to be a glitch. I did some clean-up on the wiring and got everything tucked away again out of sight under the dash. After the tools were put away, I confidently turned the key for the final satisfying check of my work. The indicator light worked fine. The tail lights worked fine. The turn signals in front were not fine. They both blinked at once. Hopefully there is an easy fix. I'm pretty sure everything was working correctly this afternoon. Does anyone have an idea for what went wrong? Thanks.

Jim
 
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Old Apr 12, 2023 | 11:18 PM
  #146  
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Yep, and I was afraid that might happen. I was hoping that through your relay setup it would be fine, but no. You've effectively hooked both of your front turn signals together through the indicator light. Power going to one turn circuit is going to the indicator light and coming back out of it to the other turn light through that wire. To make your new setup work, you'll need to install the diodes in the wires at the indicator as discussed previously, to prevent backfeeding.


 
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Old Apr 13, 2023 | 08:09 AM
  #147  
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Thanks Wayne. If there was a flaw in my concept, as it appears that there is, it's hard for me to explain how I could have been so sure that everything was working as it should when first tested the system. It doesn't seem possible I missed that both turn signals were blinking right from the start--but somehow I must have.

This is what I think I did:



Should the diodes be placed at points A and B? Any other suggestions? Thanks.

Jim
 
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Old Apr 13, 2023 | 08:31 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by 52 USCG Panel
Thanks Wayne. If there was a flaw in my concept, as it appears that there is, it's hard for me to explain how I could have been so sure that everything was working as it should when first tested the system. It doesn't seem possible that I missed that both turn signals were blinking right from the start--but somehow I must have.

This is what I think I did:



Should the diodes be placed at points A and B? Any other suggestions? Thanks.

Jim
Yes sir!
But make sure the end of the diodes marked with a "band" face the wiring to the relays/ junction blocks. The non banded ends connect together and then connects to your bulb just like you pictured.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2023 | 01:49 PM
  #149  
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The diodes solved the problem, and this project can now be considered successfully completed. Thanks for all the help and support I needed along the way. Without this forum, I would have to be paying someone for every little repair and problem that comes up. Now I can go back to thinking about what to do for a back-up vehicle. The scrap yard said they pay $400 a ton for complete vehicles. This is way more than I was thinking. I expressed interest in some Market Place Jeeps, but no one has gotten back to me yet.

Jim
 
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Old Apr 13, 2023 | 06:52 PM
  #150  
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Happy to hear that Jim! Congratulations on a win! I did this same thing with the diodes when I needed an electronic beeper to let me know when my flashers are on. Seems the flashers just don't dinka-dink like they used to. Even the EL or extra loud flashers don't make enough noise for me. Use to be I would glue a cat food can to the top of a flasher. That worked pretty good, but it was hard to hide all of that under the dash. You could still see it just looking inside the cab, and down towards the floor. The electronic beeper works good for now, but it gets annoying at a long traffic light when you are waiting to make a left turn. So I plan on trying to build an electronic oscillator circuit that will make either a dinka-dink type of noise, or maybe even a tick-tok. Of course I will probably never get around to it. I have lots of plans that never really come to fruition. LOL


 
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