Before i get started, i do appreciate help, im just looking for a deeper answer now not more guesses. So I ask that there are only set up questions and thought out ideas not 20 people saying the same thing that is already listed here. Please read as I have done a lot.

Early 2003 6.0 260k miles, T6 syn, red coolant, brass Y, 180 amp alt and starter both rebuilt in last 6 months, new batteries.

Condition:
No check engine or any other warning lights. I start well most all of the time rarely a slow start. Ive started cold @25 degrees with no help (heater and such). Thats the coldest it gets here that you want to drive.

Idle is smooth and sounds great. Quiet for a diesel and deep. Revs while in park, when I put it in drive it goes very slow then builds to 20 MPH almost normal and levels there. If I floor it, it will rev up but it wont go.

If I bob the pedal to switch gears at higher MPH, it will drive @2k rpm for about 4-7 seconds, downshift and rev again. Depending on the grade of road I may be able to get up speed. Uphill in first pulls, going 50 mph, I will lose mph flooring it. It doesnt act like a failing trans and trans temp is ideal with no leaks. If it were trans, i would be able to rev RPMs, it just wouldnt go. Its not misfiring, lunging or rattling so i dont suspect injectors.

If im at 60 mph, I can maintain if not i will lose. I have gone back to 40 mph flooring it. Stays under 3k rpm and wont shift. When it (RPM) starts to go up more after about 40 seconds, it will shift.

No smoke ever, black or white, new ipr, 04 icp with pigtail, blue spring FPR, clean EGR, new PCV and intake inlet, no vacuum leaks, pulled MAP but havent changed it yet because there is no smoke of any kind and in my life I have only had to change broken or worn ones. This looks great for an original but i could be wrong.

Looked for cracks in lines and boots. Everything checked out. No leak at the Hpop, New fuel filters and old ones looked new. Pump is great and I drained the very little water from separator. No fuel leaks. I average about 7-800 miles a tank 95% city driving with A/C in Texas. (I know, right! Hwy makes it way better. No, that's not while towing. Duh.)

Small dot leak in very front of engine. I think it is the front seal. Im not worried. I will do that after i figure this out. (It's an early 03, ICP is in the back and its not leaking from the cooler.)


Now:
Im changing the TPS and testing the MAP voltage while installed this evening. After that, Ive drawn a blank in this issue. Im looking for the next level ideas.
No power, No leaks, No rattling and No smoke. Thank you for any more ideas. If i left something out, just ask.

 

 

My endgame is a body swap with a 6.4 or 6.7 frame.

I was planning to rebuild the turbo this summer. That kind of sounds right because i dont have any leaks and i can hear the turbo but not really. I thought because it wasnt getting the signal.

A friend just told me to clean the EBP which is inline with your comment (turbo). But, im not surging and sticking, I was focused on fuel/oil related so much.

It might just be the last days of the turbo💥. Thanks.

 

 

Moved to the 6.0L PSD forum.

Stewart

 

I can't square these statements. Does it rev higher and not accelerate? Because you described that twice and then said that would be trans problem if it did what you're describing... so we're sure there's not a trans problem? Flashing Tow/Haul light on the gear shifter?

 

You'll need to pull codes with a good code reader such as Torque Pro. There are lots of issues that can happen without tripping a check-engine light.

 

My statement was the truck acted between 2 and 3k rpm and if the trans did not engage, it would go through the entire band and not go.

They are 2 different conditions and I was using that to eliminate the trans.

 

Good news and bad news for me. I was prompted by a friend to pull the turbo and the seals are leaking, so i guess thats why i could still hear it but it was dying.

I get a 360 kit today. At least I did a lot of cleaning and even found some small hoses to replace.

 

early 03 doesnt read the EBP.. its more or less just a dummy sensor thats not monitored...

boost readings would help.. but based off his description it sounds like just what mine did when the Uni-ring froze in place with the vanes near wide open... once the RPM's came up id get a little boost but not enough.. ran like a pig (which is a horrible statement)..

the transmission shifts off 2 factors... rpm and pressure... its use to reading the power output of the engine with the turbo assisting.. when the turbo stops doing this and your HP/tq drops the transmission sorta misreads it and delays in shifting.. mine would get next to redline when the uni-ring jammed up... rebuilt the turbo everything was fine again.. from the way you described the symptoms i suspect its your turbo..

 

Pop the impeller housing off and check for radial/axial play before you tear it down for rebuild.
Should very little play there at all, better yet if you have access to a magnetic base dial indicator check it that way.

 

Thanks, I did. I just wanted all the parts handy during the work.

 

After everything my turbo was stuck open and i found my #2 and #7 injectors had failed at the same time. All my codes were fuel pump related and the pump was fine so thats why i was missing everything.

I had someone else check the line and tank to make sure i didnt miss anything. Thanks for the info.

 

Every 6.0L owner needs to install a fuel pressure sensor and gauge. Low fuel pressure is the #1 killer of injectors. Even at WOT, the pressure needs to be above 45 psig (and above 50 psig is better).