I will try to make this as short as possible. I have read and read until I am blue, but still looking. 2006 F350 SD 6.0.
So this winter my truck starts getting harder and harder to start. Finally until it has to be plugged in for a period of time. Once started, the truck took forever to warm up to normal operation, even though the temp was up as normal, it took a while for the truck to drive normal. Finally two weeks ago it was really bad.

So a while back when I was in Iraq, I bought all the good stuff to do the EGR Deletem HPOP upgrade, fuel system upgrade, including banjo bolts, and the Oil cooler fix. I have 114,000 miles on the truck. BTW there was no CEL on when the issues started. S

So I commence to tearing appart my truck, cleaning everything as I go. Get it all back together after about 30 hours of work. (I made sure everything was right). The first shocker was that I put in almost 5 gallons of oil, but that was not too bad. Second, got the truck started right away after a few cranks, but immediately noticed the dreaded leak at the y pipe and the turbo. I figured that v-band was stretched out so went and bought another. So all I do is to loosend the turbo, make sure lined up and install new band. But when the leak was present, I was able to drive the truck, of course with the lag from the leak, but the truck drove to the gas station to fill er up. 124.00 worth. Next day is when installed the v-band, try to start up and it is a very hard start. Have to plug her in for an hour. Finally a start. Let idle for a minute and if I press the gas over 1000 rpm the engine stutters and willl not go over 1500 rpm. Thick black smoke billows out, unburnt fuel I know. Sort of like when you hit the rev-limiter on a car. So I check everything again twice. I even unplug the EGR which I left in to not throw a CEL. Nothing. No cracks or loose bands around intake or intercooler. No hissing like air leaks. She idles like the day she was new, but nothing over 1000. No boost in the turbo either.....actually had more boost with the leak the day before. The turbo is spinning and is wheeling free when off.

So then I read some more and test the voltage on the fuel controller. voltage is between 48-50 at all times. Should be good. Again, fuel deliver does not seem to be the problem, at least not when she is running,

Now checking the CEL I am getting the EGR of course, and all 8 injectors are showing low or weak signal. So I turn the truck off, connect the EGR and clear the codes. No CEL, but truck still does same thing. I use my laptop to plug into the truck with software that lets me monitor everything while the truck is running. Only one code now that shows the Turbo is not operating under normal ranges. Also just so you know, the batteries are new and charging at 13.5 volts at all times, even under load. Still large amounts of black smoke, so i know the inj are firing. The problem seems to be with the air side of thing.

So to make a long story longer, I need some ideas. Really dont want to by a controller as I dont think that is my running problem, maybe startup though but did not fail startup test.

So I have done all this cool stuff to my truck, but am still having the same symptoms I had before, but a tad worse.

thanks for reading, I tried to be as informative as I could.

Rich

 

What's your FICM voltage?

 

Between 48-50

 

At all conditions on a cold motor and cold ambient temps?

 

its wierd. If I have it plugged in it will start right up, Idle fine, but nothing over 1500, still lots of black smoke. 50's at night and 70 day.

The computer said last night that the operating temp was 188-192 while idleing, fully warm. Still no go with black smoke.

Not as worried about the no start at this time as I am the limited rev.

If I dont have it plugged, it will start but after a lot of cranking and then the same issues as above.

Also while extended cranking I have black smoke.

 

Just a thought, are you sure the VGT harness is plugged into your turbo?

 

good guess. The vgt is plugged in, and appears to be working as it will start to spool. The wierd thing is that when I had the leak, it would spool up to 25-30 when I drove it to the gas station.

Now with the leak fixed, wont spool past 20. I thought I might have a clog, but that would be wierd. I am going to disconnect at the cat and see if there is a difference. Maybe some debris got in the pipe while making changes. Heck who knows. But if clogged would blak smoke still make it out????????


It just starts stuttering like hitting a ref limiter.

 

I think you lose a little boost with an egr delete from what ive read. Sure sounds like your ficm is going out. Can you monitor icp and ipr with your laptop?.email ed at ficmrepair and tell him your symptoms, he may be able to shed some light on it for you. Did you get the boost sensor hose put back on the sensor?.....just a thougt.

 

BTW thanks for all the responses. I think I can monitor but I will check the computer. i can monitor many things just have to see if that is one. Also....The boost hose. Not real sure about that. Where is that located. I have not found anything I have taken off and not put on, but sure would be interested in that. Is that the small hose on the passenger side that goes up to the firewall above the HVAC fan. If so then Yes I have put that on. I am not hearing any hissing or sucking when engine starts to boost. I know there is a lot of noise and I might be missing somehting very quiet, but unlikely to cause that drastic of results. Also

What is very odd is that when I had the leak from the turbo to the y pipe I did not have the stutter or issue with the revs over 1000. It did not have the boost, but did run.

Does anyone recommend pulling the battery cables and reset the computer. There are currently no codes either stored or flashing. It only throws a code when I remmove a sensor to see if that is the problem.

Thanks again for all the help

 

I'd make very, very sure that your FICM voltages are at the 48-50 that you believe that they are while the engine is STONE cold. You need to check this KOEO, during cranking, during cold start running, AND at 2,000 RPM within a few seconds of startup (while the glow plugs are still on).

Hope this helps!