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Have been having good luck with my truck this year after a few issues last year. But now that everything is going good I have noticed 1 issue.
When travelling at a steady speed 100-110 km/hr and pulling a hill with the truck it feels like it is surging?? I have not noticed a drop in RPM, or change in Turbo pressure. Just a weird surging/ bucking from the truck.
Only happens in the higher speeds. Tried several runs at same hill, truck always MT. 100-110Kms, 1900 RPM, under 20 lbs boost. Truck pulls fine up grade and then starts to shudder. I do have a SCT tuner with custom tunes from Eric and I was thinking possible tranny shifting issue. I'm wondering if it is hunting for the next gear?
Anyone have any input on how to further test for turbo, tranny surging problems.
Do you have gauges installed in your truck to monitor for example - and specifically EGT?
Why I'm asking is, that I've had noticed some bucking/ surging once in my truck with Innovative Xtreme Street before. I was climbing a hill 60 MPH in NC, foot on the pedal and I've had my EGT up at 1500* for relatively long and I noticed the bucking and some loss of power. Never happened before or after, so I want to believe that it might been some defueling ,related to the high EGT. I could be wrong, but I like to use this theory, instead of "something wrong" with my truck.
ICP sensor - you can unplug it and see if it stops surging.
EGR valve - pull it, clean and inspect it
Turbo sticking - Watch boost and EGT's as dcaddi2 said
IPR valve - need some diagnostic tools
Injectors - need some diagnostic tools
ICP sensor - you can unplug it and see if it stops surging.
EGR valve - pull it, clean and inspect it
Turbo sticking - Watch boost and EGT's as dcaddi2 said
IPR valve - need some diagnostic tools
Injectors - need some diagnostic tools
Bismic, If you unplug the ICP will it run crappy anyway? My bro's 03 with some spartan tunes or just the normal sct tune it will surge and studder like crazy every now and then while in stock mode you will feal it start to miss or something and you will hear the turbo whisstle and then it will stop and a puff of black smoke comes out the tail pipe again it will do this for a little bit and stop at a little bit of an incline. But with the tunes on it will do it no matter what at take off. Ford said that it is the oil and it is foaming and screwing with the ICP sensor. But havent missed a oil change sence it was new. Any thoughts?
As I understand it, if it is just the ICP sensor that failed, disconnecting it should put it into a default strategy that would smooth it out. If the problem is really with foaming oil, then it will still have problems.
I had a surging problem very similar 100-110km.The FICM and ICP had been replaced and the EGR cooler and valve are on a shelf in the garage,so I was sort of stumped,no codes.The same incline and conditions every time.Within a week or so I could reproduce it in lower gears at different speeds.So after being kind of stumped for a week or so I borrowed a throtle pedal off another truck and that fixed the problem.The dealer charged 100 bucks for a new pedal and all is well.
I had a surging problem very similar 100-110km.The FICM and ICP had been replaced and the EGR cooler and valve are on a shelf in the garage,so I was sort of stumped,no codes.The same incline and conditions every time.Within a week or so I could reproduce it in lower gears at different speeds.So after being kind of stumped for a week or so I borrowed a throtle pedal off another truck and that fixed the problem.The dealer charged 100 bucks for a new pedal and all is well.
That's crazy I have a buddy that rebuilds trucks and has some parts we could start exchanging and see what we come up with, Thats crazy it was the pedal, or was it the pedal with the other things? could we exchange the FICM without the dealer having to do anything?
That's crazy I have a buddy that rebuilds trucks and has some parts we could start exchanging and see what we come up with, Thats crazy it was the pedal, or was it the pedal with the other things? could we exchange the FICM without the dealer having to do anything?
Red, the FICM was changed due to it running on 4 or five cylinders whenever the truck felt like it.The ICP was fresh because the truck cooks them(the last sensor I put in is a different design than the others that it seems to eat in 20k).So those problems were eliminated hense the stumped part.The switch the puters thing I have no idea what you can get away with.
Thanks for the input guys.
dcaddi2 ... No EGT gauge, on the list to buy.
brickie ... same boat as you FICM & ICP & 8 injectors recently replaced. It will surge only at 100-110KPH on an incline. This is with cruise on or me on the pedal. So not sure if change pedal will do anything.
I never see any smoke while its surging and like I mentioned no changes in RPM, BOOST.
I'm going to try the other tunes & stock setting to see if its still there.
Mark thanks for the tip. Yea I remember the dealer saying something about the harness, it was around $400+ for them to do it does that sound about right? My brother said that he might just have them do it. I know that it's in a really crappy spot
It is a bad spot, but I have a couple of procedures that work well. I could guide you through it and he could save some real $$'s!
From the bottom:
You can replace it from under the truck by removing the turbo heat shield with three bolts (2-10mm 1-13mm)It isn't fun and if you got fat hands do it from the top.
From the top:
Really not that bad if you have small hands. If you can get a kid to start the threads you will be fine. Here you go, tools needed-8,10,13mm (sockets really need to be 1/4 drive), pliers, drain pan to catch coolant, 1 1/16 12 point deep wall flare nut crows foot, extension, universal joint, 3/8 drive ratchet, pair of long needle nose pliers and a magnet.
Drain coolant low enough to remove coolant jug. Remove air box all the way up to turbo. Unbolt FICM. Remove FICM mounting bracket. disconnect the injector harness for numbers 4,6,8. remove nut on FICM harness ground stud. Remove the same intake bolt. Reach under turbo and pull insulation back and unplug icp sensor and IPR. Use the 1 1/16 crows foot to unscrew the sensor the reverse direction. The worst part is trying to get the sensor started back in the threads. Good luck!!
For a first time replacement, I would say at least a couple of hours for an inexperienced newbie. Just take your time and it will be ok.
There are a couple of threads in the Tech folder that will tell you probably even better how to do it!
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