If you have plenty of play/length for it, go ahead and use it for a hood ground....although I don't think it's needed...unless, of course, you have a hood light in there..

 

I suppose if I am going to replace all these components i should do the alternator also? looks to be 20 years old. LOL

 

The silver box is the voltage regulator. And the hood ground strap is only "critical" on trucks equipped with a radio (non-radio trucks don't have it). It increases the ground plane for the antenna and helps suppress ignition noise. The capacitor (That little round cylinder that looks like a condenser) that's hook to the voltage regulator serves a similar function. It helps reduce "alternator whine" in the radio.

 

Not to ask a potentially stupid question, but could me playing with the radio when it all the sudden stopped firing be related since that has "something" to do with the radio?

 

Not a stupid question.
I don't think your problem is radio related though.

 

Stop. Take a deep breath. Relax, don't spend any money unless you need to. Trust me, you'll need to, but the goal here is to only replace what's needed and not waste money, or install new yet inferior, defective parts that are very commonly sold at auto parts stores today. I guarantee if you go buy a brand spankin new two-buck chuck starter solenoid relay, there will be trouble.

The one you have now may be roasted (or not) but, replacing it with an el-cheapo POS will just be an exercise in frustration BECAUSE we don't normally expect new automotive parts to be defective. Typically what happens is the contacts weld themselves together and the starter will not disengage, and a frantic search for a 1/2" box end wrench ensues.

Find an old school NOS or NORS solenoid on eBay or something like that. It won't cost anymore, but the innards will be solid copper and not made out of recycled beer cans.

While you're waiting for that to show up in the mail pull the battery. Hook it up to your battery charger at 6 amps and let it cook over night. The battery is being tortured right now. Be kind to it. Be kind to your alternator too, it cannot charge a battery back up unless you want to drive to Montana or something like that.

Get some nice 4 gauge or 2 gauge battery and start and ground cables at your local welding supply co. Big honkin cables, not the cheap *** crap in the blister packs hanging on the rack.

Grind each connection point down to bright shiny metal, especially at the engine block, frame, and firewall. The point where the solenoid mounts needs to be a good solid ground connection as well. Basically any electrical connection, should be cleaned up with a brass bristle brush and kerosene. It's been 40 years, they need it.

Fresh cables and clean, tight connections are better than a new alternator, because a new one won't be able to plow through all that corrosion any better than the old one. Even invisible corrosion will interfere with alternator charging in a big way. Check everything, a bad battery will roast the alternator, a bad alternator will roast the battery, etc. Normally 13.8 to 14.2 volts at idle, at the battery posts is what you want to see. Spool up to high idle and turn on everything - headlights, radio, heater blower and measure again. Check battery voltage after sitting overnight. Sealed maintenance free batteries read 12.80 volts at 77° F if it doesn't read that it's not charged.

 

as far as the solenoid, you think event he motorcraft brand is junk? Looking on ebay, the ones on there don't appear any different.

 

They all look the same, that won't tell you anything. Motorcraft should be OK.

 

Is there anyway to get the good stuff from a local store? like a designation that would say what the insides are made of? I am in a time crunch is my reason for asking

BTW--see you in Waterloo...I am from Cedar Rapids originally

GO HAWKS!

or Panthers! LOL

 

Well it's a crapshoot, definitely leaning towards POS. Your local Ford dealer though will have them in stock probably? I wouldn't be in any hurry to install crap parts. Why the time crunch?

Do you know for certain solenoid is bad? I'd follow the outline provided. Be thorough, it actually saves time, and aggravation.