electrical issue
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 281
Likes: 16
electrical issue
I have been having trouble with what I thought was just a bad battery for a while, but now I think there might be something more to it...yesterday i replaced with a brand new battery and got the truck to fire up. The choke doesn't work on the truck so you have to keep feeding it gas to keep it going and it usually dies a few times before warming up(especially since not running in a month)...So i get it going and it of course dies a couple times but then re-fires no problem, no battery dragging or anything...then it dies again and i go to re-fire it and it just clicks like the battery is completely dead...mind you brand spanking new battery...knowing it is a new battery i fiddle with the cables and still nothing...i start feeling the power cable for heat and not hot at all, until i get down by the "ignition module"? that area is HOT and looks crappy...could this be the problem?
i will attach images of the part I am talking about.....any help is greatly appreciated since I need to get it running normally again so I can try to once again fix my transmission problem.
i will attach images of the part I am talking about.....any help is greatly appreciated since I need to get it running normally again so I can try to once again fix my transmission problem.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
That is your starter solenoid and easily replaced. Other problems I see are the positive cable end looks like it has been very hot at the solenoid. The solenoid is probably toast, or at least I wouldn't trust it. The thick wire from the solenoid to the starter looks like it has a big bare spot. That's not good. Who knows where else it is rubbed off and arcing against the frame or something. I'd inspect and replace battery cables and entire starting circuit.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 853
Likes: 62
From: Oxnard
Forango,
Good picture showing your starter solenoid (black encapsulated plastic). From the picture, looks like your black battery cable to has allot of corrosion. Before buying a starter solenoid and new battery cable, try cleaning the lug on the battery cable end going to the solenoid and the posts coming out of the solenoid. If I was doing it, I'd disconnect the battery cable put it in a vise and use a wire brush and file. And a wire brush on the solenoid terminals. If you have electrical contact cleaner spray some on the solenoid terminals and inside the battery cable, appears there is corrosion inside the battery cable your showing.
Before doing any of the above, disconnect the positive battery terminal to avoid creating any sparks. If you have an air compressor, use compressed air and blow away any accumulated corrosion on all the solenoid terminals.
Hope the above helps and let us know the results.
Good picture showing your starter solenoid (black encapsulated plastic). From the picture, looks like your black battery cable to has allot of corrosion. Before buying a starter solenoid and new battery cable, try cleaning the lug on the battery cable end going to the solenoid and the posts coming out of the solenoid. If I was doing it, I'd disconnect the battery cable put it in a vise and use a wire brush and file. And a wire brush on the solenoid terminals. If you have electrical contact cleaner spray some on the solenoid terminals and inside the battery cable, appears there is corrosion inside the battery cable your showing.
Before doing any of the above, disconnect the positive battery terminal to avoid creating any sparks. If you have an air compressor, use compressed air and blow away any accumulated corrosion on all the solenoid terminals.
Hope the above helps and let us know the results.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
I don't think that's corrosion, I think it's scaling from being real hot. Look at the nut between the battery cable and solenoid body. It's been so hot so many times, it's toast. He's grounding out somewhere after the solenoid. Maybe intermittently since it started a couple times. Like said before, cleaning is always a good place to start.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 281
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Also as you can see it the cable to battery is wired a bit wrong..it is actually supposed to go to the other side I think but whoever had the truck previous to me wired the negative to the other side...with a RED terminal connector to boot 
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 281
Likes: 16
Also, not sure if any connection at all, but the only thing that changed between the re-fires was that i turned the radio on while i was sitting in the truck warming it up.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 853
Likes: 62
From: Oxnard
NateJDFord,
Concur W/you IRT scaling from heat. I took the financial conservative maintenance approach. Also see from the picture what appears the hood to body ground cable has one end not connected.
Forango,
The bare braided cable needs re-connected, believe it's hood to body ground. Clean the entire cable and both locations where you re-connect it to. Actually, it appears some time devoted to TLC would improve electrical reliability.
Concur W/you IRT scaling from heat. I took the financial conservative maintenance approach. Also see from the picture what appears the hood to body ground cable has one end not connected.
Forango,
The bare braided cable needs re-connected, believe it's hood to body ground. Clean the entire cable and both locations where you re-connect it to. Actually, it appears some time devoted to TLC would improve electrical reliability.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 281
Likes: 16
NateJDFord,
Concur W/you IRT scaling from heat. I took the financial conservative maintenance approach. Also see from the picture what appears the hood to body ground cable has one end not connected.
Forango,
The bare braided cable needs re-connected, believe it's hood to body ground. Clean the entire cable and both locations where you re-connect it to. Actually, it appears some time devoted to TLC would improve electrical reliability.
Concur W/you IRT scaling from heat. I took the financial conservative maintenance approach. Also see from the picture what appears the hood to body ground cable has one end not connected.
Forango,
The bare braided cable needs re-connected, believe it's hood to body ground. Clean the entire cable and both locations where you re-connect it to. Actually, it appears some time devoted to TLC would improve electrical reliability.
and yes the truck need a lot of TLC...shortly after getting it, my father died, I took over a family business, and the tranny started up...so that stuff has been neglected.....too be honest I am not sure what goes where on this truck..all of that stuff looked this way when I bought it and obviously some stuff is disconnected, etc.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
If it were me, I'd replace the solenoid, battery cables and check to make sure the connections are clean and tight. Also, the solenoid requires it to be grounded to function optimally, as does the voltage regulator.
The (+) cable at the solenoid looks to be toasted...and the cable going to the starter is an accident waiting to happen with its bare, corroded wire as NateJDFord. stated.
Make sure that the BROWN wire is connected to the "I" terminal (on the solenoid) and the RED/bl wire is connected to the "S" terminal.
Check that fusible link also....being that close of proximity to the fried (+) solenoid terminal could mean it's fried as well.......
The radio on or off has no bearing on those junk wires
The ICM - ignition control module - is a silver grey square shaped unit on the left inner fenderwell.....
The (+) cable at the solenoid looks to be toasted...and the cable going to the starter is an accident waiting to happen with its bare, corroded wire as NateJDFord. stated.
Make sure that the BROWN wire is connected to the "I" terminal (on the solenoid) and the RED/bl wire is connected to the "S" terminal.
Check that fusible link also....being that close of proximity to the fried (+) solenoid terminal could mean it's fried as well.......
The radio on or off has no bearing on those junk wires
The ICM - ignition control module - is a silver grey square shaped unit on the left inner fenderwell.....
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
In the first picture...what is that silver square box for? That is your voltage regulator.
also, the braided wire behind it should be attached to the hood? I would take it off and dip it in some baking soda and water......or in some Coke (the drink, not the good stuff) 'till is cleans off the green corrosion boogers. Where does the other end attach to?
I have been working on new cars for way too long
also, the braided wire behind it should be attached to the hood? I would take it off and dip it in some baking soda and water......or in some Coke (the drink, not the good stuff) 'till is cleans off the green corrosion boogers. Where does the other end attach to?
I have been working on new cars for way too long
HAhahahaha
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Do you have the same type (only larger) of braided wire going from the middle back of your engine (behind the carb) to the cab? If you do, you won't need that smaller one. If you don't, I would put it there. BUT - I would still clean it up and mebbe find a spot for it.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 281
Likes: 16
Do you have the same type (only larger) of braided wire going from the middle back of your engine (behind the carb) to the cab? If you do, you won't need that smaller one. If you don't, I would put it there. BUT - I would still clean it up and mebbe find a spot for it.
the hood has a connector that looks like a similair cable was broken off from...could this be the original ground cable for the original hood? this is definitely not the original hood for my truck.