Custom Battery Cables F350 cables

Check this place out. I ordered the positive cable set from them for my 97 F250 with a 7.3 but the link I posted is for the super duty 7.3 (99-03). These are super cheap compared to what a lot of other places would charge. They are buff as hell and kind of difficult to move around but they are very durable and a great option. I didn't even realize i had a cable issue like I did until I put their cable on and my truck never started better or faster. Would definitely recommend these guys. Especially if you live in the Phoenix area.

 

Even though I put new ends on I still used battery terminal shims so I didn't have to crank the bolts way down. I had to trim them as they were a little big .

 

Ahhh Mark's comments about the need to remove the negative leads when working on the truck reminded me of a good reason why lead battery cable clamp terminals are disliked in favor of the newer style, especially when comparing the number of tightening / loosening cycles each type of terminal can withstand over a lifetime. I wasn't thinking about lead deformation issues, because I've always had some version of tool-less quick disconnect on my batteries, so that I have no excuse to disconnect them.



Prior to installing the higher amperage rated knife switches (to both batteries) as shown in the photo above, I used to have the round **** type disconnects as shown in the photo below (which I do not recommend for diesel trucks with high amp loads)



The knife switch is rated for two and a half times the amp load over the **** switch....



It takes longer to open the hood than it does to disconnect the batteries with these knife switches. And thus this is probably another reason my original battery cables are still intact... they are never stressed with reinstallation cycles.

I suppose another reason I'm hanging on to the original style cable lug is because I took advantage of the huge hunk of lead on the OEM positive lead on the passenger side battery, by drilling and tapping the meaty section for additional wire leads (that never get removed on and off, since only the negative leads need be switched off to disconnect batteries).



With the current batteries installed working on their 10th year in service, my battery cable lugs generally sit undisturbed for a very long time. I can see where more active installation cycles on battery leads would lead one to look for alternatives.

But the new style Ford terminals can have issues in the long run also...




No-Ox, terminal grease, or some other protectant might forestall the type of corrosion that disintegrates the thinner stampings of the new style terminals.

 

That's a frightening photo!
I still don't understand why they make the battery posts with the taper but the cable clamp connections are, well not designed with any taper . What I am saying here is it seems you are squeezing together a straight (conical shaped) clamp onto a not straight (tapered) battery post. This causes a twisting (of some small degree) of the cable clamp which just seems like it puts that much more strain on the clamp and increases it's chance of breaking after (x) number of cycles. It just makes no sense to me. Once you loosen the bolt/nut of the clamp there is no reason you should have to (struggle) to remove it even if the post was straight (IE: Not tapered). I don't (think) cable clamps were meant (by design) to just be pushed down on the post.
(as someone mentioned he did a few post back). I just can't figure the reason for the taper built into every battery post?
Now I have to believe there is some (engineering or design reason) for this. I just don't see it.
When I wrap something around something else that is round to clamp down. In almost every other situation I can think of they match each other and are (usually) straight as far as the tube diameter is concerned.
Am I missing some fundamental aspect of battery design?
I'm almost afraid to Google it. Hell ,I am almost afraid to post the question here! LOL DDT

 

All of my lead cable ends are tapered to match the taper on the battery posts.

 

I was planning on introducing custom battery cables too, but B-Rad88 beat me to it.

I did this mod to my 2000, opting for the military style cable termination and couldn't be happier with the result. It was a cost effective means of replacing my old cables which were in quite poor shape.

Anyway thumbs up for this from me.

Thanks,
Jerry

 

I use a 70 yr old product called Fluid Film. Lanolin based. It's a Lube and Corrosion protectant, and good electrical and battery connections.
Ck it out. Great stuff.

 

Those round green **** type cutoff switches aren't good for anything. Cheap cheap

 

Really Walleye Hunter. I honestly have never noticed the clamps portion being tapered!
If that's true my question is completely moot. Well , maybe not.....I still wonder why they are tapered.
I have read a few other posts elsewhere where people have complained that the taper seems to
encourage the connection to loosen. Just seems like it should be a straight up post without any taper.
Just can't figure the reasoning behind this design with the taper.
I can understand making the Pos. & Neg. being different diameters. Just not the taper. DDT