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Does anyone know if you can use the 02-03 style battery cables on an 99-01? The clamps on the later style don't deteriorate like the early ones do. I have a 2000 that desperately needs the cables replaced after 310K. Just wondering if there is a reason it won't work.
After deciding to try it out, the answer is yes-ish. The routing all works the same but the way the starter is wired is different. The 99-01 trucks have a starter solenoid on the fender. I just cut that wire at the positive terminal on the old cable and put a ring terminal on it and mounted it to the stud at the positive terminal on the 02-03 cable. All in all it was a fairly straightforward swap. Positive cable 2C3Z-14300-CA. Negative left side 2C3Z-14301-AA. Negative right side 2C3Z-14301-BA.
After deciding to try it out, the answer is yes-ish. The routing all works the same but the way the starter is wired is different. The 99-01 trucks have a starter solenoid on the fender. I just cut that wire at the positive terminal on the old cable and put a ring terminal on it and mounted it to the stud at the positive terminal on the 02-03 cable. All in all it was a fairly straightforward swap. Positive cable 2C3Z-14300-CA. Negative left side 2C3Z-14301-AA. Negative right side 2C3Z-14301-BA.
Well alright! I know what's next for the wife's Ex now.
Don't get too excited. Just visit the 6.0 forum to learn how long the "new" lead free battery cables last. They don't. They corrode and literally fall apart.
I happened to be at the Kentucky Truck Plant in 2001, just when they changed to the new style battery cables... and I spoke with a KTP plant engineer as to why the battery cables were changed. The engineer said it was to remove lead. This guy was also responsible for pushing Ford to change the labels on the frames from black letters on white labels to white letters on black labels, so the labels would not be so visible through the wheel wells. He was very passionate about all things his company produced at the plant. Kind of made you feel like you were in good hands, since he paid attention to so many details. In addition to design engineers at Ford's various headquarters, Ford also maintained a staff of engineers at the production plant. I met three of them, and learned a bit from each.
The entire electrical system was changed in 2002. No fuse box under the hood anymore, no fender mounted solenoid, etc.
I've never had a problem with my 2000 lead lugged battery cables, but I removed the source of battery corrosion 10 years ago, when I switched to AGM batteries. Still running those same AGM batteries today, 10 years later. And no corrosion. Something else to consider, for keeping the new cables from falling apart as well.
I’ve owned half a dozen 6.0s and a couple of late 7.3s. Never had a battery cable issue. Not even one. However, my 2000 got to the point where it wouldn’t even clamp the post on the battery anymore. I’ve seen dozens of 99-01s that had washers stacked on the battery clamp bolts. Sorry, I have a preference for the late ones
I had a friend build me some cables for half the price of any pre made. With proper care and maintenance I'm sure they will last the remainder of my trucks life.
I’ve owned half a dozen 6.0s and a couple of late 7.3s. Never had a battery cable issue. Not even one. However, my 2000 got to the point where it wouldn’t even clamp the post on the battery anymore. I’ve seen dozens of 99-01s that had washers stacked on the battery clamp bolts. Sorry, I have a preference for the late ones
I can't stand the clamps on my wife's 2000 Ex. I would much rather have the clamps from my old '02 or my '04. I even have replacement clamps and solder lugs to replace them, but I've been too concerned I'd muck it up if I tried to replace 'em.
I don't know what you guys are doing to yours but the connectors on my E99 are still going strong. You might not believe me but I grease all, I mean ALL of my battery connections on everything I own, lawnmower, front end loader, Toyota Corolla, F-250 and never have any corrosion of any sort. Just regular bearing grease. No white fungus on any of my stuff. A farmer taught me that trick some 40 years ago and it's been a winner for me ever since. I have another trick that I use too...I get my ends adjusted just right and don't use a wrench to remove or install them on the battery. I push them hard onto the post while twisting them and they're adjusted so that they get tight when they're almost all the way on the post. I know that there will be naysayers but don't knock it until you try it. And it makes it sooooo easy to pull the negatives off when working on the truck.
Mark, back in my Ma Bell days we used a product called NO-OX on all battery and buss connection points. Came in a yellow tube but was pretty stiff to squeeze out unless you warmed it up a bit. No green fuzz or film anywhere.
I don't think that the taper is, "ever so slight", I'd call it rather pronounced and I just figured it was so that they would be a little easier to remove, rather than having to fight them all the way off, once their budged they'll pop free.
Im with ya, Duck..dig the clamps on my 02. The l99, even though theyre clean, ive had to file the inside down and replace with longer bolts for them to grab the posts...