Shop Prices?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Shop Prices?
Hey guys. I took my flywheel to a new machine shop today. I wanted to have it surfaced and zero balanced. I saw the factory balance holes there, but wanted them to check it. Also had them press off cam gear to get the retaining plate.
The guy said $135. Does that sound right? I know it was many years ago, but I seem to remember $50 to resurface a flywheel.
And of course, duh, not until afterward, did I remember headbolts dot com. I could have ordered a new plate and spacer ring for less than it would cost to have the old one pressed off.
2nd question: Somehow I ended up with two f.wheels. They have the same casting number. But the stamped code is different. One was a 77, the other a 80, according to the stamp code. The last two letters were, after D7AE and E0AE, were HT and BT. I assume that means trans type?
The guy said $135. Does that sound right? I know it was many years ago, but I seem to remember $50 to resurface a flywheel.
And of course, duh, not until afterward, did I remember headbolts dot com. I could have ordered a new plate and spacer ring for less than it would cost to have the old one pressed off.
2nd question: Somehow I ended up with two f.wheels. They have the same casting number. But the stamped code is different. One was a 77, the other a 80, according to the stamp code. The last two letters were, after D7AE and E0AE, were HT and BT. I assume that means trans type?
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Yup, same here. $35 to have it resurfaced. Mine was shot though, so a brand new one was $70.
IF you want to reuse your cam, you can have the gear pressed off. Otherwise, like you said, just purchase a new cam thrust plate off of headbolts.com, which is where I got mine.
I imagine the $135 was to press off the gear too, right? If so, that sounds about right for that bit of work.
IF you want to reuse your cam, you can have the gear pressed off. Otherwise, like you said, just purchase a new cam thrust plate off of headbolts.com, which is where I got mine.
I imagine the $135 was to press off the gear too, right? If so, that sounds about right for that bit of work.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
AB, can you give me a step by step to install the cam gear? You simply heat it up and slide it down to the ring, right?
I think I'll do the rods in two steps: First, have the shop resize and install the ARP bolts. Then, I'll take them home and balance them with this: https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-g...ale-60332.html Oh, that's a kilogram, 2.2 pounds, and is the large end of a rod more than that?
When I have them all within a gram or two, I'll take them back and have the 351 pistons pressed on. The last step will be to install a couple of pistons on the crank, measure the gap @ tdc, and have the block decked that much. I don't install the rings for that, do I?
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Before installing the cam gear, make VERY SURE the spacer ring and the thrust plate are installed correctly.
When I installed my cam gear, I headed it up in the oven until it was a couple hundred degrees. Like, 300 or so. Then, coat the end of the cam shaft in grease, grab the gear with some hot pads, and shove it down as far as it'll go.
I didn't get it all the way on, so I used a bolt that fit the end of the cam (the one I had was threaded) and a bunch washers, and then turned the bolt until it pressed the gear on flush. I suppose you could just go that route without heating it, but it helped a lot to get it down an inch or so.
Really wasn't too bad.
As for the rods, I have no idea how much they weighed.
But, this post seemed like a good discussion on how to properly weigh them. It's more than just resting them on a scale.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...diffrence.html
As for the decking the block, you shouldn't have to have the rings on for that. Just see how far down into the block the pistons are and go from there. At most, you could put a rubber band around the piston so it doesn't lean too far one way or the other.
When I installed my cam gear, I headed it up in the oven until it was a couple hundred degrees. Like, 300 or so. Then, coat the end of the cam shaft in grease, grab the gear with some hot pads, and shove it down as far as it'll go.
I didn't get it all the way on, so I used a bolt that fit the end of the cam (the one I had was threaded) and a bunch washers, and then turned the bolt until it pressed the gear on flush. I suppose you could just go that route without heating it, but it helped a lot to get it down an inch or so.
Really wasn't too bad.
As for the rods, I have no idea how much they weighed.
But, this post seemed like a good discussion on how to properly weigh them. It's more than just resting them on a scale.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...diffrence.html
As for the decking the block, you shouldn't have to have the rings on for that. Just see how far down into the block the pistons are and go from there. At most, you could put a rubber band around the piston so it doesn't lean too far one way or the other.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Thanks, ab, once again you've proved to be a valuable source of info. Thx.
After looking over the thread you linked, I've decided to pay the cost and have the shop balance the rods, etc. Maybe, 90% sure.
Interesting side note: Looking back, when I spoke to Crower about the Blondie cam, the guy took a minute to look up the specs, and then laughed. "You know," he said. "We have an entire set of templates in that range. I think some racers in the 70's were using those specs a lot."
I got the specs from pmuller9 on the other forum. I think knowing that would make him laugh.
After looking over the thread you linked, I've decided to pay the cost and have the shop balance the rods, etc. Maybe, 90% sure.
Interesting side note: Looking back, when I spoke to Crower about the Blondie cam, the guy took a minute to look up the specs, and then laughed. "You know," he said. "We have an entire set of templates in that range. I think some racers in the 70's were using those specs a lot."
I got the specs from pmuller9 on the other forum. I think knowing that would make him laugh.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Always glad to help. 
Yeah, the balancing thing looked like it was totally doable.... but prone to mistakes if you don't get it right. However, you seem like you have a good shop space.
I agree, he'd get a kick out of that. Didn't he race engines quite a bit back then?
Yeah, the balancing thing looked like it was totally doable.... but prone to mistakes if you don't get it right. However, you seem like you have a good shop space.
I agree, he'd get a kick out of that. Didn't he race engines quite a bit back then?
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Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Decided to pay to have it done. Peace of mind is worth it. I just had a bad feeling about the shop that resurfaced the flywheel, so I fired them.
I only should have had it resurfaced. The new shop only does balancing, and is going to balance crank, rods, flywheel (oops), and v.dampener, for $120. I'm throwing in a micro polish on the crank.
*Side note. I watched a Summit vid. on headers. I was surprised to hear that long tube headers benefit mid to top end performance. Where as shorty headers magnify the bottom end/low end performance.
I guess I'll see. So far I'm swapping from the Hedman long tubes to Cliff. shorty headers into 8' of 3"tube and into a 2.5" tailpipe.
I only should have had it resurfaced. The new shop only does balancing, and is going to balance crank, rods, flywheel (oops), and v.dampener, for $120. I'm throwing in a micro polish on the crank.
*Side note. I watched a Summit vid. on headers. I was surprised to hear that long tube headers benefit mid to top end performance. Where as shorty headers magnify the bottom end/low end performance.
I guess I'll see. So far I'm swapping from the Hedman long tubes to Cliff. shorty headers into 8' of 3"tube and into a 2.5" tailpipe.
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