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injector upgrade question

  #1  
Old 02-12-2018, 08:53 PM
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injector upgrade question

I have 2003 excursion and about 45k miles ago i replaced my stock injectors with swamps stage 1 split shot injectors when the stock ones died at 295000 miles. about 30000 miles ago i blew a ring and put a reman 7.3 engine and reman 4r100 in.. I now have a cracked injector cup on a 30000 mile engine. to do this job i have to pull the injectors to find the cracked cup... i was thinking Id like some single shot injectors and I have a t500 hpop. Can i just upgrade the nozzels on my current swamps stage 1s to make them single shot... what do you all recommend?
 
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:27 PM
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Changing the nozzle size will not change the injector from split shot to single shot. If you want single shots, you could send yours in and have them rebuilt to whatever cc/nozzle you wanted or just send them in as a core. You can get larger nozzles and retain the split shots and Swamps is one of the only places I hear of that being done. Your best option would be to call Swamps and explain your situation and I know they can get where you want to be.
 
  #3  
Old 02-13-2018, 07:14 AM
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I would suggest that you just replace all 8 injector cups while you have the injectors out. If one failed at 30k, the others may not be too far behind and it's a fairly involved job.
 
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:08 AM
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Wonder if it'd worth it to switch to single shot.. I only get about 12mpg now.. I'm at 402hp 733ft/lb at rear wheels on the dyno on stage 1 split shots..
 
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:28 AM
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I'm thinking that that's plenty of HP right there and if it's abused it could be a disaster so as it is. Change to single shots means changing tuning to accommodate them. I don't know that I'd replace all of the injector cups but I might do the one side while it's opened up.
 
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:37 AM
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You have the same injectors I have. I see no reason to change unless you are having a problem or want more fuel. They are not the most popular but seem to work good as long as you are not having HPO problems which I would doubt with the upgraded pump you have.

Can you post up the dyno information? It would be interesting to see as I have wondered what these injectors are capable of and not many people on the forum have them. Thanks
 
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Old 02-13-2018, 05:04 PM
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What year was the donor engine? What did they use for the internals? Powdered Metal Rods (PMRs) came OEM for the '02 and '03. I know the general discussion is 400hp on PMRs before you ramp up on potential issues. I'm guessing that would be from the engine and you are well over that. I'm with Walleye Hunter, stick with what you got unless you just can't live without switching over. Besides having to get all new tuning you open yourself up to potential problems with new/reman injectors. You have a set that works and personally I wouldn't mess with that. Just my .02

But...if you do decide to scratch that itch I would replace all 8 cups since all the holes would be empty.
 
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by brandon_oma#692 View Post
You have the same injectors I have. I see no reason to change unless you are having a problem or want more fuel. They are not the most popular but seem to work good as long as you are not having HPO problems which I would doubt with the upgraded pump you have.

I have no injector issues.. I run opti-lube xpd year round! GOOD ****!

Can you post up the dyno information? It would be interesting to see as I have wondered what these injectors are capable of and not many people on the forum have them. Thanks
I Do have the dyno sheet somewhere.. I dynoed it at riffraff east a couple years back on the old long block.. I'm sure this new long block has more power.. Also note I run a snow performance water method injection kit and I was running 100% meth for that dyno pull.. Also custom tunes from dp tuner on my f6.. So I'm not sure how much more you could squeeze out of these injectors!

With this new engine only having 30k miles on it I'm gonna call the cup problem a fluke and start on the driver side an pressurize the coolant system an find the cup.. If I'm lucky it will be on that side.. I will replace cups and injector o-rings and glow plugs and uvc harness while I have them out.. If unlucky and I have to open the passenger side back up then I'll do the same on that side.. I purchased the removal tool kit from rosewood diesel.. I reckon I'll just stick with the injectors I have... Thanks for all the help guys!
 
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:11 AM
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IMHO you should do cups on both sides unless you find a reason for the cracked cup like a loose injector. Test the torque on all injectors before you remove them. Start at maybe 75" lbs and see if any of them holddown bolts tighten then go to 80-90-100" lbs. If theres one or more that do and a bad cup is in that hole then maybe it makes sense to only change that one. Any holddown bolts that are below 75-80" lbs could be the cause of cracked cups or broken sealant.

it only takes about another 2 hours to do the other side. if you get it wrong and have another broken cup in a short while then you gonna be wishing you had done them cause the truck will be down another day and a half to two days cause of the cure time for the compound. cost of antifreeze and flushin the system is also a concern if you have to do again.

i learned the hard way

my .02 cents
 
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by PQH350 View Post
IMHO you should do cups on both sides unless you find a reason for the cracked cup like a loose injector. Test the torque on all injectors before you remove them. Start at maybe 75" lbs and see if any of them holddown bolts tighten then go to 80-90-100" lbs. If theres one or more that do and a bad cup is in that hole then maybe it makes sense to only change that one. Any holddown bolts that are below 75-80" lbs could be the cause of cracked cups or broken sealant.

it only takes about another 2 hours to do the other side. if you get it wrong and have another broken cup in a short while then you gonna be wishing you had done them cause the truck will be down another day and a half to two days cause of the cure time for the compound. cost of antifreeze and flushin the system is also a concern if you have to do again.

i learned the hard way

my .02 cents
Good advice!
 
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Old 02-15-2018, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by truck7575 View Post
Wonder if it'd worth it to switch to single shot.. I only get about 12mpg now.. I'm at 402hp 733ft/lb at rear wheels on the dyno on stage 1 split shots..
What does MPG's have to do with injectors? If you're looking for improved MPG's and that's why you wanna swap in singles, don't.

Originally Posted by truck7575 View Post
Good advice!
Musta missed post #3 above, eh?

IIRC, Andy just did his cups a little bit ago.

Stewart
 
  #12  
Old 02-21-2018, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H View Post
IIRC, Andy just did his cups a little bit ago.

Stewart
Yep, just about a year ago now. I was getting some soot collecting in the degas bottle. It looked they had been replaced at one point in the past because the #7 cup wasn't straight in the bore. I had pictures of them up here in one of the threads. I sure hope I did a better job but no leaks so far.
 
  #13  
Old 02-21-2018, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by truck7575 View Post
Wonder if it'd worth it to switch to single shot.. I only get about 12mpg now.. I'm at 402hp 733ft/lb at rear wheels on the dyno on stage 1 split shots..
That has to be a record for stage 1s, usually 350-360 hp is the max you can get out of a stage 1 injector with stock nozzle size.
 
  #14  
Old 02-21-2018, 09:39 PM
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I agree 00t
 
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