injector upgrade question
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Florence
injector upgrade question
I have 2003 excursion and about 45k miles ago i replaced my stock injectors with swamps stage 1 split shot injectors when the stock ones died at 295000 miles. about 30000 miles ago i blew a ring and put a reman 7.3 engine and reman 4r100 in.. I now have a cracked injector cup on a 30000 mile engine. to do this job i have to pull the injectors to find the cracked cup... i was thinking Id like some single shot injectors and I have a t500 hpop. Can i just upgrade the nozzels on my current swamps stage 1s to make them single shot... what do you all recommend?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Changing the nozzle size will not change the injector from split shot to single shot. If you want single shots, you could send yours in and have them rebuilt to whatever cc/nozzle you wanted or just send them in as a core. You can get larger nozzles and retain the split shots and Swamps is one of the only places I hear of that being done. Your best option would be to call Swamps and explain your situation and I know they can get where you want to be.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
I'm thinking that that's plenty of HP right there and if it's abused it could be a disaster so as it is. Change to single shots means changing tuning to accommodate them. I don't know that I'd replace all of the injector cups but I might do the one side while it's opened up.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 31
From: Northern Illinois
You have the same injectors I have. I see no reason to change unless you are having a problem or want more fuel. They are not the most popular but seem to work good as long as you are not having HPO problems which I would doubt with the upgraded pump you have.
Can you post up the dyno information? It would be interesting to see as I have wondered what these injectors are capable of and not many people on the forum have them. Thanks
Can you post up the dyno information? It would be interesting to see as I have wondered what these injectors are capable of and not many people on the forum have them. Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 147
From: San Diego, CA
What year was the donor engine? What did they use for the internals? Powdered Metal Rods (PMRs) came OEM for the '02 and '03. I know the general discussion is 400hp on PMRs before you ramp up on potential issues. I'm guessing that would be from the engine and you are well over that. I'm with Walleye Hunter, stick with what you got unless you just can't live without switching over. Besides having to get all new tuning you open yourself up to potential problems with new/reman injectors. You have a set that works and personally I wouldn't mess with that. Just my .02
But...if you do decide to scratch that itch I would replace all 8 cups since all the holes would be empty.
But...if you do decide to scratch that itch I would replace all 8 cups since all the holes would be empty.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Florence
You have the same injectors I have. I see no reason to change unless you are having a problem or want more fuel. They are not the most popular but seem to work good as long as you are not having HPO problems which I would doubt with the upgraded pump you have.
I have no injector issues.. I run opti-lube xpd year round! GOOD ****!
Can you post up the dyno information? It would be interesting to see as I have wondered what these injectors are capable of and not many people on the forum have them. Thanks
I have no injector issues.. I run opti-lube xpd year round! GOOD ****!
Can you post up the dyno information? It would be interesting to see as I have wondered what these injectors are capable of and not many people on the forum have them. Thanks
With this new engine only having 30k miles on it I'm gonna call the cup problem a fluke and start on the driver side an pressurize the coolant system an find the cup.. If I'm lucky it will be on that side.. I will replace cups and injector o-rings and glow plugs and uvc harness while I have them out.. If unlucky and I have to open the passenger side back up then I'll do the same on that side.. I purchased the removal tool kit from rosewood diesel.. I reckon I'll just stick with the injectors I have... Thanks for all the help guys!
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IMHO you should do cups on both sides unless you find a reason for the cracked cup like a loose injector. Test the torque on all injectors before you remove them. Start at maybe 75" lbs and see if any of them holddown bolts tighten then go to 80-90-100" lbs. If theres one or more that do and a bad cup is in that hole then maybe it makes sense to only change that one. Any holddown bolts that are below 75-80" lbs could be the cause of cracked cups or broken sealant.
it only takes about another 2 hours to do the other side. if you get it wrong and have another broken cup in a short while then you gonna be wishing you had done them cause the truck will be down another day and a half to two days cause of the cure time for the compound. cost of antifreeze and flushin the system is also a concern if you have to do again.
i learned the hard way
my .02 cents
it only takes about another 2 hours to do the other side. if you get it wrong and have another broken cup in a short while then you gonna be wishing you had done them cause the truck will be down another day and a half to two days cause of the cure time for the compound. cost of antifreeze and flushin the system is also a concern if you have to do again.
i learned the hard way
my .02 cents
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 628
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From: Florence
IMHO you should do cups on both sides unless you find a reason for the cracked cup like a loose injector. Test the torque on all injectors before you remove them. Start at maybe 75" lbs and see if any of them holddown bolts tighten then go to 80-90-100" lbs. If theres one or more that do and a bad cup is in that hole then maybe it makes sense to only change that one. Any holddown bolts that are below 75-80" lbs could be the cause of cracked cups or broken sealant.
it only takes about another 2 hours to do the other side. if you get it wrong and have another broken cup in a short while then you gonna be wishing you had done them cause the truck will be down another day and a half to two days cause of the cure time for the compound. cost of antifreeze and flushin the system is also a concern if you have to do again.
i learned the hard way
my .02 cents
it only takes about another 2 hours to do the other side. if you get it wrong and have another broken cup in a short while then you gonna be wishing you had done them cause the truck will be down another day and a half to two days cause of the cure time for the compound. cost of antifreeze and flushin the system is also a concern if you have to do again.
i learned the hard way
my .02 cents
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
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From: Central Coast of CA
Musta missed post #3 above, eh?
IIRC, Andy just did his cups a little bit ago.
Stewart
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Yep, just about a year ago now. I was getting some soot collecting in the degas bottle. It looked they had been replaced at one point in the past because the #7 cup wasn't straight in the bore. I had pictures of them up here in one of the threads. I sure hope I did a better job but no leaks so far.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,523
Likes: 483
From: Southern OH
That has to be a record for stage 1s, usually 350-360 hp is the max you can get out of a stage 1 injector with stock nozzle size.
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brian42
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Jan 17, 2018 11:24 AM