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No start, HOLY CODES BATMAN!!!!!!

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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 12:45 PM
  #1  
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No start, HOLY CODES BATMAN!!!!!!

I've had a no start situation, started with the normal sensor changes, ICP & IPR. Those didn't work. Decided to get the autoenginuity, got it yesterday, plugged it in today. WOW!!! I have some codes.

P1280 - ICP circuit low
P0475 - exhaust pressure control valve
P1316 - IDM codes
P0471 - exhaust pressure sensor range.

I did a buzz test and 2,4,6,8 didn't give a good buzz. also had a couple codes there also.

P1276 - cylinder #6 high to low open
P1294 - injector high side open bank #2

with injectors 2,4,6,8 being the only ones not giving a good buzz, would I be right to assume it's the valve cover harness? Need some help fellas.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 01:06 PM
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Did you take the connector apart & look at the pins ? Does sound like vch. Have you done the 50 cent mod ?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 01:27 PM
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That's really not a lot of codes. I believe that the IDM codes are for injectors and I'd be looking at the wiring for the driver's side UVCH. Check for chafed wires where the harness rubs against the VC too.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 01:31 PM
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Wires look ok. Pins not so good. I’m thinking, go with a new UVCH. see where that takes me
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 01:40 PM
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Sounds like your on the right track. P1316 paired with no buzz on a complete bank sure smells like the UVCH plug came off on that side. And yes if pins are damaged replace harness and or connectors involved
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 02:46 PM
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Pulled plug, checked it and put it back on. Still no start. Gonna swap uvch
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Shattered
Pulled plug, checked it and put it back on. Still no start. Gonna swap uvch
Make sure & go oem on this as aftermarket have had some issues. Just a heads up
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Shattered
Pulled plug, checked it and put it back on. Still no start. Gonna swap uvch
Did you check under the VC? Have you heard of the $.50 mod? If original there is another connection under the VC that is prone to coming apart, thus the mod.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 04:00 PM
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Clay uses International parts and I find it hard to beat his pricing.
I would suggest cranking the engine and watching the injectors to see what they are doing if anything.
I did the $.50 mod under the vc and a washer mod on the exterior of the vc gasket connection just for assurance.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 04:39 PM
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Also, I am 95% sure the new Ford UVCH's are a re-designed set that do not require the 50 cent mod.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 06:20 PM
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I have one that I ordered a while ago from riff raff. I’ll post again tomorrow let y’all know if that was it
 
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 09:16 PM
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Step 1: Clear Codes. They will stay in memory...about 100 years until you clear them, LOL.

Only chase the current codes.

Check the harnesses of your ICP and IPR connectors. Here's a pic of what I just found- and I'm pretty careful with my Excursion



How is your oil level? What brand/weight/age is it?

What is your battery voltage before and during cranking? (too low will allow crank but not fire injectors)

How full is your fuel tank? Hutch mod?

Fuel pump cycles about 20 secs or so when you first turn on the key (inside rail under the drivers seat)?

As you continue with the advice others are giving you, make sure these are all good, too
 
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 12:19 AM
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Rotella 15-40, changed 1k ago. Voltage is good, truck stays on battery tender. Hutch and harpoon done. 3/4 tank of fuel with new filters. ICP and IPR connectors looked good.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Shattered
Rotella 15-40, changed 1k ago. Voltage is good, truck stays on battery tender. Hutch and harpoon done. 3/4 tank of fuel with new filters. ICP and IPR connectors looked good.
Define "good"

How many volts and how are you testing?

Did you pull back the wire loom and check the wires and connector?

When diagnosing problems, it is important to know values for certain. Your PCM uses these values to determine if it will fire the injectors or not

What is your outside temp? How many miles on your injectors?

If you're ordering from Clay, you likely went with OEM on the ICP and IPR, right? How long ago for those new sensors?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 10:52 AM
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[left]289k on clock, new o-rings 20k ago. 52 degrees out. And I got ICP and IPR from local dealership. Batteries are 3 mo. Old. Pulled loom back a couple inches and they looked good. What percentages should I test for on ICP and IPR?/left]
 
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