This is the first thing that you should have done.

 

If I have the time tonight to do that, I will give it a try. if that works and she starts, I will post an update.

 

I think at this point you really don't have much of an option. That ICP is oddly high (note:I'm not an expert here), plus tuners can do odd things when they malfunction.

Fuel pump should run 20-30 secs with key on, then turns off an won't turn on again until either the truck starts or you cycle the key. It is normal for the pressure to bleed off quickly in most setups without a bunch of check valves, in my experience and reading.

It is *possible* to have a bad pump, but monitoring your fuel pressure while cranking and when it starts/stalls should tell you more about that.

Is your fuel pressure gauge pre or post filter? What filter setup are you running? Is it pre-pump?

I am running out of suggestions here...Once we check these couple of things (hopefully one of them solves your trouble), someone with more knowledge than I will have to jump in- and I'll watch and learn, too

 

fuel pressure gauge is on the pressure regulator in engine bay. my filters are on frame with fuel pump relocated so it's between filters. from tank to fuel water 10 micron filter to pump to 2 micron filter to engine.

 

Have you checked that 10 micron filter?
With the stock pump guys are using a 100 micron strainer on the suction side of the pump.

 

Both filters are brand new 0 miles on them. I’ve been running my filters in this configuration since I first did regulated return 5 yrs ago and have never had any problem. But something could have gone **** up with it.

 

For the love of God please start over from the beginning. This Thread has gone all over the place. Knowing your tuner wasn't unplugged would have helped. LOOK AT THE FLOW CHART. It will tell you more than any of us ever could and rid us of the wild azz guessing.

 

I wouldn't call it "wild azz guessing"

We have checked for the required starting criteria:

1. Minimum values for RPM, ICP, Voltage
2. Fuel (injection event: FIPW, and fuel present: fuel pressure psi)

Once it has enough to start, even temporarily, then we evaluate the logged/video values and see high ICP and some maybe high DC%

Now we are trying to figure out IF those values are a problem (I don't know enough to rule them in or out), and the WHY they are out of range (if that is the case)

So when looking at the WHY, we see the TUNER that controls these and decide to pull it to remove it from the picture.

In the meantime we addressed possible physical failures within a chain...such as injector event. We heated the oil to rule out glowplugs and thicker oil.

We are also wondering if the fuel pressure is dropping off or if the FIPW or something electrical is dropping when he lets off the key from the start position, since it stops immediately.

The ICP isn't dropping drastically during the long cranking, so unlikely a sticking injector is sucking away the oil, causing ICP to crash (not certain yet, but building the case)

The fuel isn't guaranteed to be flowing in the correct volume, maybe?


One of these, I think:

**If ICP falling flat (drops to ~650 in the video when it starts, not sure what to make of that, or if it is tuner strategy or defect?)

**If RPM dying (doesn't look like it, RPM jumps right up with engine jumping to life, so unlikely the problem)

**If electrical dying (why? Conditions: Key transitions from start to run)

**If fuel flow falling off (why? Checked pressure, but what about flow? Injector issues, lines, etc?)

**PCM shutdown (Losing electrical, exceeded some value/parameter and safety shutdown, or tuner?)

**Possible electrical where start position is okay, run position is not (solenoid, grounding, etc?)

**Gross Mechanical Failure (compression, crank, whatever, seems unlikely, no sounds to support, but don't know?)

This is where we are now, unless I missed something?

 

You’re right on the money camper. I’ve gotta get a few minutes and rip tuner out and see if she fires. If she does, great. We know it was tuner related. If not I’m going to get a good bottle of bourbon and try to figure it out that way. Lol.

 

Keep at it! I recently had a "undocumented" issue with my truck detailed in the video below. After about 12 hours of beating my head against the fender and getting advice from the FTE collective, it turned out to be trapped air in the hydroboost system which did not make itself known until we had below freezing temperatures in GA.

 

Ok, update time. I finally had the chance to take tuner out. It’s still doing the same thing. I did get it to start, but had to have it to the floor, then it looked like a S. O. B

 

Any chance of a video of this?

What is your EOT?

Did you get the fuel lines fixed?

 

Now is the time to do a Cody test. Unless you have air or coolant in your HPOP?

Pressurize the oil rail and listen for leakage under a valve cover.

I'm leaning towards leaking, stuck, failed injector or orings.

The oil side is easy to check with Cody test.

 

EOT IS 55 and EOT input volts are at 4.03. Still waiting for UPS to deliver new fuel line and fittings, I’ll start that tomorrow.

 

ok,made video of truck actualljy running with pedal to the floor.