HPOI is a Tugly creation that uses several parameters and their relationships to calculate a value that should be "less than 10" Above 10 is a sign of HPOP flow/pressure issues. At least that is how I recall Rich's explanation.

Until it makes its first trouble. I am finding that with my Dormans. They were perfectly fine for several years and during several removals, now they aren't.

I think it is more a matter of "handling" and flexing the wires than anything else. It is possible that OEM/Dorman/whatever vary in longevity, though I cannot say. Pretty much if you don't mess with them, they are all fine, IMHO.

I can't say anything about the PCM being suspect, I don't have any experience with that

 

@Jaime74656 did a nice Torque Pro FAQ a while back: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-pro-faq.html

 

@scoutcamper made a good Forscan tutorial: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html

I've also tagged both fellas in hope they can lend a hand in getting your BARO and your logged data setup properly.

I hope they can help you resolve the BARO issue, replacing a PCM is a pretty drastic step. Do it if you must, but if BARO is one of your reasons and it is only a configuration issue in the PID/software...

Did you replace any HPOP lines or fittings yet? I am trying to collect some HPOP-side fittings to have made into Cody Testers. Some have offered, but with Christmas and New Year's I haven't received any yet. Not to mention everyone's 'truck work schedule' is different- often wherever it fits

A couple of you guys look like you could benefit from a Cody test but I'm not setup to help with these yet

 

I haven't done anything but install new shocks.

The previous owner listed changing the valve cover gaskets about 4,000 miles ago. Doesn't say what brand he used.

I am going to clean the engine and see if I can determine where my oil leak is. Thought it was the rear main seal at first but then realized it is coming from higher up and assumed it was the valve covers.

 

If your HPOP lines have not been changed yet, they are a 100k service interval. *Many* of us go ahead and replace both fittings in the heads and both fittings in the HPOP at the same time.

They are STC fittings that have orings. Some people have had luck with just replacing the orings. I have found my fittings to have some pitting from corrosion and am glad I replaced them.

I used non-check valve fittings in the HPOP, which eliminates the need for HPx while still balancing and quieting the heads. Downside is said to be longer to build initial pressure for starting, but mine is still under 1.5 secs, so that isn't an issue here.

You've just replaced the injector orings while rebuilding your stock ones, so you should be good there. Did you replace any internal orings in your injectors? I believe that is where mine failed this summer.

Most common oil leaks are pedestal and turbo orings (top and bottom sets), and EBPV piston in the bottom back of the pedestal. A few find them in the oil rail plugs or end rail plugs.

Another benefit of replacing HPOP lines and fittings is KNOWING they are sealed and not leaking...plus the opportunity to thoroughly clean the engine topside and valley, which makes it easier to find leaks.

Fuel bowl/line leaks are common and often mistaken for oil. Have you rebuilt your fuel bowl, parker fittings in the fuel line fittings, drain valve orings yet?

If you haven't, it is a good idea. It is also a good time to service the inside of the bowl (fuel bowl heater, clean it out, remove spring check valve inside the post) and add fittings for fuel pressure gauges.

The drain hole in the rear passenger side of the valley is a trickster. Anything that builds up in the valley drains back there, misleading those searching for topside leaks.

There is more, but I don't want to get your thread too far off track from graphing

 

The following itemized list is from a receipt contained in a folder given to me by the previous owner when I bought the truck. Looks like o-rings and fittings were changed:

9/24/2014 Galpin Ford

$ 84.93 - 1.00 F81Z6K854FA (Adapter) Turbo Up Pipe

$ 77.83 - 1.00 F81Z6K854EA (Adapter) Turbo Up Pipe

$ 141.98 - 1.00 F81Z6K854AA (Adapter) Turbo "T"

$ 63.84 - 2.00 F4TZ6K854C (Adapter) Flange Gasket

$ 41.44 - 4.00 W300013 (Bolt) "Y" pipe bolt

$ 62.36 - 4.00 W300050 (Nut) "Y" pipe nut

$ 158.40 - 2.00 1C3Z6C640LA - A (Connection) Intercooler Tube -Blue

$ 89.48 - 2.00 YC3Z6C640PA - A (Connection) Intercooler Tube - Red

$ 226.34 - 1.00 F6TZ9F838A (Sensor Assembly) ICP sensor

$ 105.28 - 1.00 5C3Z12224A (Connector) ICP sensor Plug pigtail

$ 16.26 - 2.00 F4TZ6N653B (Gasket) Pedestal O-rings Yellow-Large

$ 15.52 - 2.00 F4TZ6N653A (Gasket) pedestal O-rings Yellow-Small

$ 56.56 - 2.00 F81Z9N332AA (Elbow) HPOP fitting

$ 16.58 - 2.00 F4TZ6769A (Valve Assembly - CR) Dog House O-rings - small

$ 9.26 - 2.00 F4TZ6769C (Ring - Sealing) Dog House O-rings - large

$ 128.00 - 4.00 F4TZ8287A (Clamp - Hose) Intercooler Tube Clamps

$ 83.84 - 1.00 F4TZ6K854F (Adapter) Exhaust Flange

$ 814.22 1.00 78-8677 (Power Module)

 

Well seemes I got tagged by EX so…tag your it ex any way I read through the thread the best I can on my Fruit phone, but could not find if the year of the truck was mentioned, I’m assuming based on the picture seen it is an 01-02 year truck, the PCM (iirc) will be different from the e99 - 00 trucks, on the E99 trucks ( or any truck that was from 2000 or before ) the PCM has the baro sensor integrated in it, anything after 01 the sensor is separate ( Not soldered directly to the board) and should be located on the Passenger side of the engine, near the cowl in the OP’s truck

 

Jaime- Thanks for coming in. Here is Jim's recent post on rebuilding his own injectors: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-rebuild.html

Although he has Forscan, I thought perhaps you could help with your Torque Pro knowledge as well

I know on some 6.0's the baro is a separate plug in module above the pedals. I don't know about these models, I thought they were in the PCM, too?

Have you seen any troubles with TP getting Baro? I am suddenly having trouble, but it's the first logging I've done in several months and at least one version of TP.

 

 

Hi and thanks for helping.
My truck is a 2000 so according to your post the BARO is part of the PCM.
Maybe I am not thinking clearly on this but being that the Barometric Pressure reading is meant to help the PCM adjust the tune of the engine based on altitude, my BARO being totally dead would have to affect performance to some degree. Especially living at 4400' above sea level, wouldn't it?

 

Unless a decimal on one of the PIDs is out of place, the HPOI shouldn't go over 1. Even with a decimal out and a result of over 10 - it doesn't look good. John - that's about what your HPOI was before you dropped in an HPOP, unless my memory is slipping from under me.

Just because you can't read the BARO, doesn't mean it's not doing the job. You should have a Boost PID in the list. If your boost reads a negative number (like minus 2.2) with the key on and engine off, then I would be concerned.

Now... once you cross 4000 feet (the line in the sand), the PCM alters the fueling strategy. Tuners are supposed to do this too, but they don't always have the second fueling map in there for high altitudes.

 

I couldn't find a PID that said boost on it. Is there another term that might be used?

 

 

In every OBDII app I've ever used for the 7.3L, boost has been in the list of PIDs - but I don't recall looking for it in FORScan. I use FORScan for troubleshooting, but not for air in/out issues - my air problems were solved when I was using AE. I know that if you have an app that scans the truck for available PIDs, boost is in there. Maybe FORScan needs to be abandoned just until all the air questions are answered. How about Torque Lite or Torque Pro? Did an app come with your OBDII adapter... assuming it's a quality unit? You don't want to load that tiny disk with the panda bear on it... it's full of malware.

 

Yes, my adapter came with a program called OBDwiz.
I will check it out later today. Forscan seems to be lacking in user friendly help files. I went with it because I didn't want to spend a lot of money on a program. Prefer to use that money for parts if possible.